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| LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 151/197) |
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Bob2112
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FEB 04, 02:58 PM
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Your tool looks way better - genius! I hope if I decide to do this in the future, I can buy/borrow that tool from you.
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fieroguru
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FEB 08, 02:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
The most important step is wife prep, which must be undertaken prior to moving any engine parts into the kitchen. |
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True! I did the wife prep a long time ago (Sara and I have been together for 20 years), so she is very used to me bringing parts into the kitchen for washing in the sink or baking in the oven.
| quote | Originally posted by Bob2112:
Your tool looks way better - genius! I hope if I decide to do this in the future, I can buy/borrow that tool from you. |
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Thanks!
For the prototype the aluminum shaft ring cost $30 and I had to bore it, drill/tap 2 holes, and modify the metal tab. It worked, but I wanted to refine it a little before it takes up residence in the tool box. So I found some cheap ($9ea) aluminum bracket clamps that only needed to be bored, drilled and the end reshaped. Much nicer part to put in the tool box...
Haven't made much progress since last week due to other things needing my time. Heading to Indy today for Monster Truck Jam and hang out with my brother and nephews. Might make some progress on Sunday.
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qwikgta
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MAR 25, 02:36 PM
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fieroguru
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MAR 25, 09:25 PM
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That is pretty cool! I will have to do more research on ratio and rotation to know if could be adapted for the AWD project.
As far as progress on getting the LS4 back together... not much. Decided to send the heads off to TSP for stage 1 CNC porting to maximize NA performance in case I don't finish the turbo stuff in time.
Did get the E40 loaded with the stock SSR LS2/T56 calibration, and have collection of E40 engine harnesses to start tearing apart.
I want to make a bench tune harness so I can start the programming work before the engine is in the car.
I also want a simplified harness to allow running the engine on the cradle fixture.
Then the harness for the engine in the chassis... I have plenty of parts/materials for all 3, but am forever short on time it seems.
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ericjon262
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APR 06, 02:51 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by fieroguru:
The oil fill hole in the F40 is threaded for a M18-1.5 plug... just like an O2 Sensor plug.
So I ordered 2 stainless steel ones ($12 shipped) like this to confirm:
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I was thinking about this when I looked at my F23, and I thought it was worth mentioning, that the stock will caps typically have a vent path that allows for pressure equalization as temperatures go up and down, by installing an O2 sensor plug there, you remove the ability to relieve pressure, which could result in reduced seal life, and/or have oil leaks.
Just food for thought.
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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 04-06-2020).]
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fieroguru
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APR 06, 07:20 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by ericjon262:
I was thinking about this when I looked at my F23, and I thought it was worth mentioning, that the stock will caps typically have a vent path that allows for pressure equalization as temperatures go up and down, by installing an O2 sensor plug there, you remove the ability to relieve pressure, which could result in reduced seal life, and/or have oil leaks.
Just food for thought.
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The F40 is vented through a port w/ cap on the shifter assembly, so the the use of the stainless O2 sensor plug is a non-issue. The actual GM part is the same, just coated steel vs. stainless.
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ericjon262
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APR 06, 03:31 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by fieroguru:
The F40 is vented through a port w/ cap on the shifter assembly, so the the use of the stainless O2 sensor plug is a non-issue. The actual GM part is the same, just coated steel vs. stainless.
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10-4, that's good to know.------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html
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fieroguru
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APR 10, 07:06 PM
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85-308
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APR 10, 07:15 PM
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I'd be interested in seeing your experience with degreeing-in the cam; also what size valves did the manage to fit?
Thx for posting, as always.
GP
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fieroguru
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APR 10, 07:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by 85-308:
I'd be interested in seeing your experience with degreeing-in the cam; also what size valves did the manage to fit?
Thx for posting, as always.
GP |
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Very first page of this build thread shows when I degreed in the DoD camshaft. The process this time will be very similar.
Stock LS4 camshaft specs: 197/197 .486/.486 @ 114LSA
IVO (BTDC): -18
IVC (ABDC): 35
EVO (BBDC): 31
EVC (ATDC): -14
Previous 224/232 .564/.575 @ 113 LSA DoD camshaft
IVO (BTDC): -3.5
IVC (ABDC): 47.5
EVO (BBDC): 46
EVC (ATDC): 5.5
New 219/222 .617/.596 @ 114 LSA camshaft.
IVO (BTDC): -1.7
IVC (ABDC): 40.6
EVO (BBDC): 48.9
EVC (ATDC): -5.7
The TSP stage 1 CNC porting keeps the stock valves (2.00/1.55). Going larger on a 5.3 isn't recommended.
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