brake bleeding (Page 2/5)
FieroCustom JAN 02, 11:16 PM
As for the sequence: LR, RR, RF, LF is correct. The LR caliper is the farthest away due to the brake line being ran down the passenger side to the rear brakes. This means that the driver's side caliper is the farthest from the master cylinder. Next farthest would be the RR, then the RF and lastly, the LF with the shortest run of piping to the master cylinder. You may now resume your normally scheduled program...

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John
1955 Chevrolet 210 Sedan (Shopping list in progress)
1988 SE seized duke...next engine...1996 LQ1 found
~Future 1990 Fiero Clone?
1988 T-Top Coupe rocking 41 MPG!
1986 SE Project Mayhem
1999 F350 Crew Dually ~17mpg city 22 hwy
Wife's 2001 Saturn SL1 51MPG high score

hypo327 JAN 04, 05:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by Marvin McInnis:


Go ahead ... splurge and buy a whole quart of DOT3/4 brake fluid. That is more than enough to bleed and flush an entire system. Don't be tempted to use some old fluid that has been sitting on the shelf, opened, for several years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic; it readily absorbs moisture from the air.



Yes, don't use old brake fluid...I found this out the hard way, when I was back in high school (about 50-years ago...lol.) This is why I always buy small bottles, so I don't have allot sitting on the shelf and end up throwing it out. After changing calipers, you usually end up using the whole small bottle, and since you don't want to store it, use it all up to bleed them more, to get all the bubbles out as much as possible. just make sure you refill your reservoir after about three bleeds. Remember fluid is cheep, but your brakes may save your life!

make sure your helper and you communicate or you will end up starting all over again. Have him pump it up and hold it with good pressure. Let him know that when you open the bleeder valve that his foot will go all the way to the floor and tell him to hold it there, until you close the bleeder valve. Tell him to pump it up again and hold it, after you close the valve. Repeat this as many times as necessary until there is absolutely no more bubbles for 3-more bleeds. If your fluid is dirty...bleed it all out until clear! I attach a clear surgical hose to the valve and run it in a bottle. The bottle will also tell you how much fluid has been drained from the reservoir, and when to refill your reservoir. I also leave the box end wrench on the valve until I'm done...makes it easier. You only need to open it about a quarter turn! When you're all done, you should have lots more peddle! Whenever you bleed...bleed them all to make sure all bubbles are gone an your fluid is clean. Hint...Whenever you refill the reservoir, make sure the rubber diaphragm is on evenly and your cap is back on tight, or you will be starting all over again and bleeding the whole system to get the air out that you let into the reservoir!

Another hint: Make sure you don't get any fluid on your paint our it will leave a permanent mark where it ate the paint. Be very careful when you are refilling your reservoir, not to spill it! Keep an old towel handy to wipe up any fast, that might spill.

[This message has been edited by hypo327 (edited 01-04-2013).]

Tekwiz JAN 04, 07:05 PM
Any time a connection is opened in a brake system, the system must then be bled, no exceptions.
By far the easiest way to bleed brakes is with a vacuum brake bleeder. These run on compressed air & suck the fluid out through the bleeder fittings, so only one person is required. Just make sure to check & fill the master cylinder often when using a vacuum bleeder...they can empty it fast.
Many auto parts stores lend or rent specialty tools like this, if you have a source of compressed air.
thesameguy JAN 04, 07:12 PM
You can also use the Motive Power Bleeder -

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Make it a one-man job and pretty painless. The master cylinder on old GM cars is kind of a hassle with this unit because it's tough to get a seal on the master cylinder cover. I could never get it to work right with my T/A, even using the expensive metal (instead of plastic) adapter. I read somewhere that instead of using their silly chains to hold the thing on, use a massive c-clamp. I tried that method on my Falcon and it worked *perfectly* - and I had to use it multiple times as I was redoing all the brake lines and found a couple leaks. Never had any issues. As soon as my new calipers come in, I'll try it on the Fiero too.

Edit: I must have read the bit about the c-clamp on their own site -



We got the following tip from users that work on their classic Corvettes. We like the tip so much we're
passing it on to you. Instead of using the chains cut a piece of 2x4 or some metal bar stock in the same length as the
1105 adapter. Lay the 2x4 or bar stock onto the top of the adapter lengthwise and then use a c-clamp to hold the
adpater in place. It works great and is much faster to use than the chains. In 2011 we started to make the 1105 out of
cast aluminum. On the newer 1105 you will not need to use a 2x4 or bar stock, just use a c-clamp.

[This message has been edited by thesameguy (edited 01-04-2013).]

thesameguy JAN 12, 10:13 PM
Thought I would follow up on this...

I hooked up my Motive to the Fiero today, and pretty much just made a mess. I have a Blazer master cylinder, and the Motive "American" adapter was just not quite big enough to fit over the reservoir. After a few seconds, the seal failed and blew ATE Super Blue all over the place. DOH.

There is a 3rd party that sells an aluminum adapter I used to use with my Trans Am, and it worked great on the bigger master cylinder. If you have the original MC, you won't need it. If you don't, you will.

I can't remember where I got that thing, but I'll dig it up and post a link.

The clutch master cylinder reservoir uses the same threads as most European cars, so that was easy.

Aside from the mess I made, the Motive bleeder worked perfectly. Bleed all four corners and the clutch in less than an hour.
ElTee JAN 12, 11:26 PM
I've tried a few different methods to bleeding the system, and found that gravity bleeding by far worked the best. Wish I could get the $70 back for the Craftsman brake bleeder I bought. Good Luck!
jetman JAN 13, 01:24 PM
I love the one man speed bleeder screws, absolutely love them, hope the person who invented them is living a life of luxury.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
Remember to use the proper sequence (which is Fiero specific) - LR RR RF LF


That little tidbit is worth it's weight in gold for the uninformed.
eunospeed MAY 23, 09:23 PM
Guys, sick of a soft pedal after gravity, vacuum and pedal bleeding the brakes on my Formula. So I'm looking at a pressure bleed next. I saw this Motive kit and I believe it will work on our cars. Take a look at it and give your thoughts......
http://www.speedwaymotors.c...Cylinders,33861.html
eunospeed MAY 23, 09:28 PM
http://motiveproducts.3dcar...l-Adapter_p_130.html
Just read thesameguy's input above and it looks like the 1105 adapter is improved. Thoughts?
eunospeed MAY 28, 09:44 PM
Just ordered it........ Results will be posted.