brake bleeding (Page 3/5)
hobbywrench MAY 29, 01:23 PM
I use an H-Frt vacuum can . One port requires air pressure ( 20 psi in), the other port produces vacuum . Hook the vacuum port to a plastic brake bottle. The brake bottle has two spouts. One to the bleed nipple, the other to the vacuum input. When the plastic bottle fills 3/4, dump it. I run about 2 small bottles of brake fluid thru. You need an air compressor and a regulator turned down to around 20 psi. Kinda noisy and not the fastest. Rock hard pedal. One man operation. Brake pedal is not touched.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 05-29-2013).]

crashyoung MAY 29, 11:00 PM
When I bleed my brakes or clutch, I remove the bleeder screw, coat it with copper anti-seze, and reinstall it.
The anti-seze keeps it clean so I can remove it next time, and seals the threads from leaking air.
I slip a clear tube over the nipple of the bleeder screw and put the other end of the tube in a jar to the bottom of the jar.
As I bleed the brakes, the air goes out the tube, but when you release the pedal, only fluid gets sucked back in.
I also keep a close watch on the reservoir, as it has to stay full.
After bleeding, I tighten the bleeder with an open end wrench, take off the tube and torque the bleeder with a six point socket.
If I am flushing the system, you can watch the fluid as it leaves, and you might get a glimpse of water that gets trapped in the system.
I also save the old fluid, it makes a great penetrating oil.
thesameguy MAY 29, 11:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by eunospeed:

Just ordered it........ Results will be posted.



Assuming the 1105 covers the stock master cylinder reservoir (which I think it will, but you'll need to measure as I don't have one) it'll be fine. Otherwise, you need the 1115. *Seriously* go buy a big c-clamp and 6" of square tube stock from wherever and use that to cinch it to the reservoir. The chains and hooks they provide are worthless. A c-clamp without the tube stock won't seal properly. Sucks to spend an extra $10 to make this work, but it simply won't work right without the extra parts IME. I have bled *dozens* of cars using my Motive bleeder. In fact, I'm on my second pump as the one I bought in 2001 died in '08 or '09. I use the crap out of my Motive!

Remember that you only need 5-10psi in the can to bleed brakes. More than that and you can blow out seals. I usually start at 8psi and pump it back up at 4-5psi. Brakes on the Fiero are still great.

theogre MAY 30, 01:55 AM
If air got in the MC because tank went dry then you can bleed them until hell freezes and never get air out.

Can try to jack up rear of car til MC is level then bleed as normal. Sometimes works...
Often need to Bench Bleed the MC, reinstall MC, then bleed as normal.

This assumes you didn't "pedal bleed" the system and killed the MC... If you did that then you need a new MC.

See my Cave, Brake Service and Bleeding MC notes

Edit:
Low pedal or soft/spongy pedal... Terms are confusing but not interchangeable.
Bleeding can fix soft/spongy pedal.
Low pedal is normal brakes but need more pedal travel. Low pedal is often cause by too much pad clearance, often Fiero rear pad w/ caliper piston problems. Rebuilt caliper often use Rebuild Pistons. Rear piston was design as one shot use then junk them when bad.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-02-2015).]

eunospeed JUN 04, 09:33 PM
Got tired of working on it and took her to a brake shop. They say its the new rear drivers caliper which I replaced because of a leak. Tech said there's a gap between the piston and the pad and closing the gap causes the peddle to be spongy. In other words, i have to push the peddle pretty far to close the gap enough for the caliper to have effect. Says its the parking brake mech causing the piston to not work properly. You guys have given great advice, any experience with this issue? Is this why guys go with front calipers on the rear?
eunospeed JUN 04, 09:38 PM
I guess I should have read theogre's "edit" portion closer........ Sounds like my issue. Any fix?
eunospeed JUN 04, 10:09 PM
http://home.comcast.net/~fierocave/brakes2.htm. Thanks theogre!
eunospeed JUN 05, 03:26 PM
FIXED!!!!! Got to give a shout-out to my friends at Ashley's Tire and Brake in Lexington KY. I now have a great peddle, stops like a charm. They say to use the parking brake every time I park her and keep my fingers crossed that the problem doesn't come back. Good for now!
Lambo nut JUN 05, 04:32 PM
If you replace the calipers one at a time and let them gravity bleed when installing, no more bleeding will be needed after the install is complete. That might have been the "No" answer. I do it all the time. Even replace hoses and not done more then let the fluid run through, replace on the caliper, let the fluid run out, tighten bleed screw, done. Just don't let the master cylinder suck air.

And I have never had to bleed the brakes on an occasional basis. Not sure where that info comes from.

And yes, proper Fiero order is, LR, RR, RF, LF.

Kevin
mrstan NOV 01, 10:55 PM
Has anyone tried the pressure bleeding method of pushing the fluid back up into the master cylinder? I just read an article on this and they say it is great as long as the car does not have an ABS system.

It makes sense to me in that it is pushing the fluid uphill and dragging the air with it to the master cylinder as well. This is done at each wheel it seems and works backward from the gravity method.. Here is ad on ebay that I caught my attention:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/One...-3500-/281836349094. I am not sure of the size of the brake bleeder though..

Any thoughts?