Hi Fiero friends I am back and have a 88 fiero i will be installing a bored and stroked to 428 CI Ls engine mated to a Audi 8HP transmisson i will need to convert the trans from all wheel drive to 2 wheel and build or buy a adapter plate . I would use a standard transmission but due to the power level i am looking for i do not think they would handle it and a ZF 8HP 55 is good for 550 Nm or 406 flbs of torque in stock fourm i plan to turbo charge the engine to 1000 whp if I

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-16-2025).]

With the name warpath, I was expecting the W12 engine, but turbo LS will work as well!

There is a a good reason for the name Pontiac had a Indian hood orderment on its Cheiftain and other cars and was know as the Indian and the engine I built is 428 CI and Pontiac made a 428 CI so it is a Indain on the Warpath to make a bunch of power That was my thinking behind the name anyway

With the heavy Pontiac focus, you might want a set of these!

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-16-2025).]

nice but i sm running a Ls bored and stroked

quote Originally posted by engine man: nice but i sm running a Ls bored and stroked

That doesn't need to stop you...

are you making a adaptor for those as i know you make many cool things

quote Originally posted by engine man: are you making a adaptor for those as i know you make many cool things

Medicemfg.com makes cnc billet adapters. I purchased a set, but didn't end up using them as they were too tall/thick and I needed to shift the placement of the valve cover slightly to clear my belt tensioner. The billet ones needed some clearance work for the two bolt bosses next to the intake to clear the rocker arms. I ended up making my own thinner version out of steel to make everything clear. With my thinner adapter plate, I ended up clearancing those bolt bosses on the valve cover.

Here is a drawing showing the interference issue. The red line is the inside contour of the valve cover, and the billet adapters below. This is with the valve cover shifter toward the intake, so if it is centered, the interference increases.


[URL=https://www.ebay.com/itm/176134652445?_skw=pontiac+ls+valve+cover+adapter&itmmeta=01KA8TN87NJ3DH03ACJAKBFN2S&hash=item290271821d:g:yZ0AAOSwHmdnvi0n&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fa6ivmCzDxNqaE7NjJfaNs4DT7IVJF3qQ7wlLaAy7X6LvtlVaU7A9%2BdID4 KgA93]https://www.ebay.com/itm/17...tlVaU7A9%2BdID4KgA93[/URL] JYNpsyBlRh%2FGkeXzGMwlEAPclqB30BnAD3SltWCr5VFpZL9ZvyxSY65hjlFLBDmLuUPR4f5GBA0a4GjpQQuqtKWCMcnq07pAd2hjO6%2FmUHmFscZ5ABo8mIgRZ%2FxAjroYwLfLECjIyu0Ivaex7%2BxKDPpKClX2WCDVKd3qHxMQ0fe01DsyWsbpTsqaP0dHmEcRb22AlWMAEYDbtnE%2FTCPUBJC%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_aD1ZrSZg

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-17-2025).]

Ok I have 3 different transmission i feel i can use from Audi they are the 0B1 manual 6 speed FWD , DL 382 dual clutch or a ZF 8HP 55 converted to FWD . The 0B1 is the easiest just need a shifter and clutch peddal the ZF is the strongest but need to convert it to fwd and get a stand alone controler the DL382 7F is fwd but needs a stand alone controler and is rated about the same 400Nm of torque as the 0B1 with any of these i feel i will have about a 2 inch offset on the axle inner mounting flang to the hub with the valve covers right up tight to the firewall i feel i will need some sort of electric water pump and the alternator down low due to the fire wall slopes forward top to bottom.

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-17-2025).]

Must say that your projects always seem quite involved and complex but what is your end goal? If you are looking for a solid 1/4 mile car we have already seen 3800SC Fieros running in the 9 second bracket. Are you trying to beat that? Your work is certainly great, highly technical and worthy of praise so with all the work you will put into your swap my guess that your are going after show car uniqueness with your project..

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Dennis LaGrua I just like different I like a challange there is not much challange in a 3800 as it has been done many times now

well I have a bit of clearancing to do on the rocker arms as they just so slightly touch and i will need aftermarket valve coveres as the baffle in a stock cover hits the rocker's

I want to say that the Audi trans probably has the same "bones" as the ZF 8HP75 trans that's in the Ram pickups.
It is reputed to be about as bullet-proof as you can get.
I'm not sure what you're going to do about the control/programming, but Ram definitely got it right. It is, without a doubt, the best - and most intuitive - automatic trans I've ever driven. And I generally don't like automatics at all.
Good luck with your project.

Yes it is the same as the Dodge trans but for Audi Turbo lamik makes a TCU for it and you can have a virtual clutch watch the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Q7x-VVuSfc

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-19-2025).]

worked on the car disconected all the wiring but the starter and will have it all out by the end of the weekend as i am just taking my time no big hurry

Well After thinking and thinking about the transmission I would like to run the 8HP but due to having to convert it to FWD and the price of the controler I do not think that is the way to go for me and i will be buying a 0B1 FWD manual transmissin so i will need peddals and a shifter

Ok i did some basic measuring I am coming up with 20.5 from the front of the number 1 bank head to bellhousing on my Ls and i think the Fieo axle center is 21 incehes from the top of the firewall back I am not sure how much the firewall slpopes forward at the bottom of the decklid hinges but i figure if i have a 1/2 inche clearance from the top of the heaf to the fire wall and with a 1 inch thick adaptor and the axle line on the trans is 1.6 inches behind the bellhousing mating surface i should end up with just over 2 1/2 axle offset i will have to run a remote electric water pump and low maunt alternator hell i might even get the AC pump back on it .

I will be talking to Maxxecu as they claim to be able to control VAG DSG transmission and i will need a ecu anyway so if I can do both engine and transmission buying on unit that would be great as i really like the dual clutch transmission

fieroguru you and other help me more than you could ever know as i look at your builds and find soloutions to challanges i face in my build or it gives me ideas on how to solve problems on my build so keep up the great work as it helps give me ideas and solve problems

quote Originally posted by engine man: fieroguru you and other help me more than you could ever know as i look at your builds and find soloutions to challanges i face in my build or it gives me ideas on how to solve problems on my build so keep up the great work as it helps give me ideas and solve problems

Glad to be of help.

For the engine and transmisison control, not sure if you have seen this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/...ansmission-swap.html
The thread starter is a Holley tuner and worked with them to allow CAN communication between Holley and TurboLamik and integrate their function. There is also some discussion about the Maxxecu option as well.

I have been very happy with my Rebel LS ecm and love all the built in features and the ability to customize. I show this in my thread on this page about 3/4 the way down. You can also download the software and check it out for free:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/.../HTML/000123-52.html

They don't currently have transmission control for VAG DSG transmissions, but it might be worth a call to see if it is in development. When I purchased my Rebel LS in late 2023, they didn't have any transmission control, but now they have it for the GM 4L series of transmissions.

Depending on your timeline for getting everything installed and runnig, it might be worth focusing on the mechancial side and locking in the ecm/tcm at a later date to allow for more technology and development on that side. Lots of things can change on the computer side in a year.

Thank you fieroguru and everyone have a great thanksgiving

I have a ? why can't someone take a stock ecu or tcu and completly remove the firmware software on them and load new firmware software like you would find on a standalone unit or can i take a Audi ECU and make it run the Ls with tuning software so it will comunicate with the transmission of choice from the Audi ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-29-2025).]

Well I just got a email back from RM racing Electronics they make a ecu that can control a 8hp but it is a BMW on but they told me that if i send them the tcu from the transmission they could flash it with there BMW software and work with me to work out any issues that arise and there price is inexpensive half of everyone and it will run both the engine and transmission . https://rmracingelectronics...m-racing-electronics

Hopfully next week i cna get started on postioning the engine in the car as i will have a new engine hoist monday when they drop it off then i can get the old engine and transmission of the cradle

Ok the stock engine is all off the cradle now just need to pressure wash the cradle tomorrow then i will hook onto the engine and start postioning it on the cradle

Well i have decided to go with a manual as i enjoy driving themso i will need a shifter and pedals i have changed pedals before and it is not fun but ohwell that is just the way it is i just like banging gears it puts a smile on my face

quote Originally posted by engine man: Well i have decided to go with a manual as i enjoy driving themso i will need a shifter and pedals i have changed pedals before and it is not fun but ohwell that is just the way it is i just like banging gears it puts a smile on my face

I am following your project, but I have a quick question if I may? I am assuming your will do a longitudinal mount but will you make a removable brace where the truck "top beam" used to be? Your skill set is so far beyond mine this will be fun watching!

Peace my friend,

Dr \/\/

infinitewill if you are talking about the trunk beam no i do not planing on removing it and my skilll set is not that good i just am to dumb to know i cant do thing Lol

Ok this is about where the engine will sit as the mounts i have will pickup the front crossmember wit just a small amount of box tubing and i will need to notch the crossmember about 1 inch for oilpan clearance i will be running a shorter oilpan as this is the truck version and is like about 9 inches deep versuse the 6 inch deep one i will be running the bellhousing flange is about 1 inch in front of the axle centerline

ok new oilpan is ordered and 0B1 transmission bought on Ebay along with new front ballancer that stuff will alow me to know exactly where to put the motor mount and what mods to the firewall if any

well i need to find the transmission again as that person canceld my buy on ebay and refunded my money as he did not want to ship it even though it gave a shipping price anddid not say for local pickup only . There are a places up north that has some but they are missing driver side jackshaft and the dualmass flywheel where the one i was trying to buy had all that and that is another $300 to $500 to buy seperatly so that kinda brings me back to the 8HP if i can't find a reasonable priced 0B1.

If it was me, I would wait for the right manual. You can mock up the engine and firewall clearance while waiting.

Thanks fieroguru but I did bit the bulet and have a transmission comming the one jack shaft is not to bad as i found one for about $35 on ebay and the flywheel i should be able to find from a awd 0B2 transmission localy so all should be fine

Ok i have it taced into place and will test fit it tommorow as i have some places I need to go today but if i did it right i should have about 1/2 inch clearance up front at the closest place on the firewall

need to do some more clearancing as this is going to be tight realy tight on the firewall

Ok i have it bolted in all the way not much clearance for a balancer yet i would like to run a Ls4 balancer I woild like a SFI balacner as it is right behind me .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-13-2025).]

Looks like you are planning to run the LS4 balancer. You might want to install it before locking in the engine placement.

I would also drop the fuel tank before doing a lot of cutting in that area. I have seen a few fuel tanks with a crack on the inlet and vent nozzle.

That cross tube is also structural, so you might want to consider reinforcing it for the section removed.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-13-2025).]

yes I need to remove the tank anyway as I am sure if there is any gas in it it is bad the car has not been on the road for over 10 years so it is a good idea to take it out and not sure how i will brace that up as i was not sure if it was structural so thank you for pointing that out what do you think some 1 x 2 across the bottom that i can bolt in after the fuel tank is in do you think that would do it ?