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Another 1986 Fiero SE that won't run by wwcvel
Started on: 11-13-2021 04:57 PM
Replies: 4 (279 views)
Last post by: eti engineer on 11-15-2021 09:00 AM
wwcvel
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Report this Post11-13-2021 04:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wwcvelSend a Private Message to wwcvelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A couple years ago, I spent too much money on a non-running 1986 Fiero SE with the distributor yanked out and in the trunk that I was told was running "until a few months before that". I bought this Fiero as my first project car.

It seems like I'm having very similar issues to 72and86 in this thread.

I've slowly been replacing damn near everything on it except the actual engine. It seems to run slightly better with diagnostic mode jumpered. If I give it gas, it will start and run, but when I let go of the gas pedal it dies. If I baby it and let it warm up, it will idle for a minute or two before it dies.

Based off the advice in the other thread: I've been able to get it to run with the IAC taken out, during which I can hear air being sucked into the IAC hole very loudly. When I cover the hole it dies almost immediately. I can audibly hear the IAC doing things after the engine dies so it appears the connector is working. The fuel injector fuses are new and good.

I've replaced the starter, battery cables, battery, ground straps, spark plugs, distributor, ignition coil, and plug wires. It has a new fuel pump, fuel tank, and fuel lines. I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key. I had the fuel injectors cleaned (was told 3 of them were not working correctly by the machine they used at the shop, so I replaced those with new refurbished ones). I replaced the EGR valve, EGR tube, and the vacuum lines. I just replaced the IAC again.

Here is a video of the car barely "running" after I rebuilt the distributor when I first got it a couple years ago.

Video of the car "running" today, after I replaced the rest of the things and put a new distributor in it.

Whenever I can get over being frustrated at the car again, I'm planning to start the process of yanking the exhaust headers to check for leaks since they seem to be causing a loud ticking noise (at least that's what I HOPE is causing the ticking noise) and I see a lot of smoke coming out of the area around the header on the back of the engine especially where connects to the exhaust tube below the EGR valve. Would leaky exhaust headers cause the massive vacuum leak symptoms I'm experiencing and prevent the car from idling? The cat was removed by a previous owner and replaced with a straight pipe. It smells very strongly of gas whenever the car starts and runs (I always assume that's linked to the cat being removed?), even though the engine is acting like it's lean and can barely idle.

Is there something I should be looking at or rechecking before messing with the exhaust? I was planning to make this car like new again, but I didn't know I was going to have to do that before I ever drove it.

[This message has been edited by wwcvel (edited 11-13-2021).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post11-13-2021 05:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

A couple of basics first...

Was the ignition timing done with the ALDL jumper in place?

What is the fuel pressure while the engine is running? And how quickly does the pressure drop when power to the fuel pump is cut?
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Report this Post11-13-2021 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wwcvelSend a Private Message to wwcvelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I haven’t really been able to get it to run and idle long enough to time it. I do have A&B jumpered on the ALDL. It acts better and is easier to keep running jumpered.

I’ll rent a fuel pressure gauge from o’reilly and check that when I have time next week.
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eti engineer
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Report this Post11-15-2021 08:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for eti engineerSend a Private Message to eti engineerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wwcvel:

I haven’t really been able to get it to run and idle long enough to time it. I do have A&B jumpered on the ALDL. It acts better and is easier to keep running jumpered.

I’ll rent a fuel pressure gauge from o’reilly and check that when I have time next week.


I could be wrong, but it sounds like your timing is way retarded. Loosen the 15mm hold down bolt and turn the distributor a bit counterclockwise and then restart it and see if it runs better. Timing marks on a car this old mean nothing. I replaced the harmonic balancer on my engine when I rebuilt it and had to determine TDC using a micrometer, although it can be done more easily. The outer ring on the old balancer had actually "slipped" to where it was off by about 20 degrees. The new ones come with no timing mark. You have to determine what that is yourself and make your own mark.
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eti engineer
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Report this Post11-15-2021 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for eti engineerSend a Private Message to eti engineerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

eti engineer

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Member since Mar 2017
 
quote
Originally posted by wwcvel:

I haven’t really been able to get it to run and idle long enough to time it. I do have A&B jumpered on the ALDL. It acts better and is easier to keep running jumpered.

I’ll rent a fuel pressure gauge from o’reilly and check that when I have time next week.


I could be wrong, but it sounds like your timing is way retarded. Loosen the 15mm hold down bolt and turn the distributor a bit counterclockwise and then restart it and see if it runs better. Timing marks on a car this old mean nothing. I replaced the harmonic balancer on my engine when I rebuilt it and had to determine TDC using a micrometer, although it can be done more easily. The outer ring on the old balancer had actually "slipped" to where it was off by about 20 degrees. The new ones come with no timing mark. You have to determine what that is yourself and make your own mark.
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