Yesterday (sunday) i've driven my 88 gt v6 fiero (133k km) with a 5 speed getrag transmission with 70% of city driving,
After 30 minutes, the feeling of the gearbox become more hard. Thanks to God, i could park my car in my garage but now i'm not able to shift any gear included the reverse if the engine is running. If the engine is turned off, then, i can shift and after i start the engine i can drive with one gear but if i want shifting into other gear, i must turn off the engine and i can repeat the operation = same result.
The dot 3 master/slave cylinder level is good
tranny oil level is ok and changed recently (stf tranny oil)
My clutch pedal is below the brake pedal (is it the problem and the clucth disc doesn't disangage fully due to the clutch pedal (bent pedal is-it possible) ?).
Do you have any suggestions which will help me to find the problem ?
Thanks you in advance.
[This message has been edited by zobari (edited 07-19-2021).]
Yep, sure sounds like classic low pedal syndrome to me! You might want to check this thread on common causes of low clutch pedal: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...110502-2-108390.html and then this one on how I finally fixed
First, if you're on level ground and start the car with it in gear, does it try to pull away? That would be a failure to disengage issue.
There are 4 good possibilities that may be causing your problem.
1. The clutch pedal is bent. 2. The master cylinder pushrod is bent. 3. The slave cylinder has failed. 4. You have air in the system and it needs to be bled.
I would first start with bleeding the system. I've had great success with gravity bleeding. My method: Jack up the left front just enough to get the wheel off the ground. Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir and leave the cap off and the bottle of fluid nearby. Open the bleeder on the slave and allow the fluid to flow while at the same time, strike the side of the slave with a heavy tool or small hammer. This helps to dislodge any air in the slave. Keep close watch on the fluid level and top off when it nears the bottom. Don't let it run dry. Repeat this and on the third filling of the reservoir, allow it to flow down to the full mark and close the bleeder valve. Replace the caps on the reservoir and fluid bottle. If it was air, your clutch should operate properly.
The level of the pedal tends to indicate your pedal or pushrod is bent. If the pushrod has been removed for any reason, it may have been reinstalled upside down. The curl of the pushrod should be upward. Try pulling the pedal upward to see if it will rise above the brake pedal.
If the slave cylinder has failed, the Rodney Dickman replacement slave is highly recommended.
You could have no shifter cables and your clutch pedal wouldn't be that floppy!
Do the bleeding as previously advised and see what happens. If you don't have a slave cylinder with a double seal (from Rodney), I suspect there's air in your hydraulics.
This is a topic that has been discussed over and over and over again. There is a ton of info already posted about this issue.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-19-2021).]
OK I will bleed the Hydraulic liquid from slave clutch cylinder and master cylinder.
But in the last video.i have some difficulty to change to first and 5th engine off but then All gear was fin on the last of video but the feeling is a bit hard. A problem with clutch pedal can cause some difficulty to change gear with the engine turned off ?
Yes, sometimes it's difficult to get into some gears because nothing is moving and gears don't perfectly match together. First or Reverse would be most common. At least on both mine.
I just looked at the video. Something's wrong. The pedal should spring up and stay up when released in that manner. It shouldn't bounce up and down.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 07-19-2021).]
I just looked at the video. Something's wrong. The pedal should spring up and stay up when released in that manner. It shouldn't bounce up and down.
It does act very odd. I wonder if the factory installed clutch pedal return spring (which was subsequently recommended to be removed) is responsible for the "bounce".
But I still think the root problem is air in the hydraulics.
quote
Originally posted by zobari:
The rear slave cylinder has been changed in 2016...
If you installed a slave with a single seal, it's crap, and is possibly the source of the problem.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-20-2021).]
At the Fiero Store site it states... "These units are made to original GM specifications." If that's the case, then I suspect the slave cylinder only has one seal, which would definitely be more prone to sucking air into the system than the double seal slave that Rodney Dickman sells.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-20-2021).]
I'm thinking that the problem lies at the front end. The way the pedal free-swings says it's just hanging there. There's no resistance from the master cylinder piston and spring until it reaches the bottom of the bore. I think the master cylinder piston is stuck. It couldn't be that the pushrod has detached and the small spring inside the master cylinder would still give some resistance to the pedal.
I will buy the the clutch master and slave cylinder from Rodney dickman and then I will bleed and I think the problem will solved...
Not that it's a bad idea to buy a clutch slave and master from Rodney (as they're both great quality), but why don't you try just bleeding the system first before making any changes to it? See what happens! If nothing else, it's good practice.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-20-2021).]
Sound to me like you have this problem going on 🧐 this happened on my 86 gt 2.8 4 speed when I bought from the previous owner he thought it was the slave cylinder or master well changed both out and come to find out I still couldn’t go into gear but had nice pressure at the pedal and that 1-1/2 of the slave rod movement. This was when I was like the clutch is gone let’s drop the cradle and see what happened soon as I had the trans separated from the motor the pressure plate was visible. Removed that and boom this spring fell on the ground 🤷♂️. That’s when it was time to install new clutch and get the flywheel resurfaced put all back together fiero 2.8 was driving and good to go
Even if the pushrod were removed from the slave cylinder, there would be pressure holding the clutch pedal at the top of its travel. It wouldn't let the pedal free swing the way it does. I think the problem is in that area, not at the slave or transmission. It may even be that the clip holding the master cylinder pushrod came off and the pushrod slipped off the pedal. None of this has apparently been checked out.
Do a visual inspection of the clutch pedal and the pushrod that attaches it to the master cylinder to be they are still attached.
It may even be that the clip holding the master cylinder pushrod came off and the pushrod slipped off the pedal. None of this has apparently been checked out.
Do a visual inspection of the clutch pedal and the pushrod that attaches it to the master cylinder to be they are still attached.
I would think that the OP would've done that already (and found no evidence of detachment to report)... but yes, I suppose I shouldn't make any assumptions!
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-21-2021).]
