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How do I remove the stock V6 oil pan (engine in car)? by OldGuyinaGT
Started on: 06-19-2021 04:26 PM
Replies: 7 (375 views)
Last post by: Notorio on 06-20-2021 12:11 AM
OldGuyinaGT
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Report this Post06-19-2021 04:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OldGuyinaGTSend a Private Message to OldGuyinaGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm in the middle of replacing the timing cover gasket (coolant leak near #7 bolt), and I need some advice.

While I was at it, I wanted to replace the oil pan gasket, since it seems to be leaking pretty much all the way around the perimeter. The FSM says all I need to do is take off the flywheel shield, the starter (looks like my mini-starter can stay, though), pull the bolts and out it comes. BUT...

At the front of the engine, the corners of the pan are on studs, and the pan hits the big U-shaped engine mount bracket before it clears these studs. I tried unscrewing them (there's a small hex on the end, maybe 4mm) but I rounded off the ends a bit with a 4mm socket, and they feel like they might break if I use much more force.



Is there some trick I'm missing to get the pan out? If I did get those studs out, could I then get the pan out around the crank and the oil pump? Or would I just hit those? How SHOULD I be trying to remove the oil pan?

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Report this Post06-19-2021 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You'll need to support the engine and remove both the front engine mount and bracket. Might have to jack the engine up a few inches. After jacking the engine up, I used a 2 x 4 under the balancer and the cradle to keep the front elevated. Then its just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts on the oil pan. Upon assembly use a new gasket and do not forget to put a 1/4" bead of RTV in the corners of where the oil pan goes around the main bearing cap and where it contacts the timing cover.

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Report this Post06-19-2021 06:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Since the harmonic balancer is removed, you'll need to lift and support the engine from above. There's a lifting hook on the front of the engine, near the thermostat neck. You'll need to disconnect the dogbone, too.
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OldGuyinaGT
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Report this Post06-19-2021 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OldGuyinaGTSend a Private Message to OldGuyinaGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was afraid of that. Thanks, guys. I guess I sort of saw it coming, but I'd hoped the FSM was right.
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Report this Post06-19-2021 08:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Since the harmonic balancer is removed, you'll need to lift and support the engine from above.
There's a lifting hook on the front of the engine, near the thermostat neck. You'll need to disconnect the dogbone, too.


See here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...120111-2-112747.html

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Will
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Report this Post06-19-2021 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by OldGuyinaGT:

Is there some trick I'm missing to get the pan out? If I did get those studs out, could I then get the pan out around the crank and the oil pump? Or would I just hit those? How SHOULD I be trying to remove the oil pan?


If your crank pulley were still in place, you'd put a 4x4 under the crank pulley and remove the engine mount bracket. That style of bracket says you have an '88, BTW. You'll also need to remove the engine mount from the cradle and disconnect the exhaust Y-pipe from the catalyst. You CAN get the pan out without dropping the exhaust, though.

If you have the pan off, my *STRONGEST* recommendation is to install a high volume oil pump. You don't need high pressure, and in fact get great results swapping the stock regulator spring into the high volume pump. However, the 2.8's didn't have great oiling to begin with, and as they wear and clearances open up, the oil pressure, particularly at hot idle, goes down. The high volume pump fixes that.


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Report this Post06-19-2021 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rick VanderpoolSend a Private Message to Rick VanderpoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It might be too late to fix, but the heads of the studs are Torx type, not hex.
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Notorio
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Report this Post06-20-2021 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NotorioSend a Private Message to NotorioEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When I did that job I jacked the engine up using the oil pan, not the balancer, which was already off. I put Two 4x4s under the end of the crankshaft to gain the clearance needed to work the pan off past the oil pump screen.
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