Use the technique outlines in the top video with the exception is that I have never had to remove the window guide. There is a way to get the window up high enough and back slightly with the guide still in place. Then you just reach under the glass with the small philips screwdriver and remove the last two screws that hold the dew wipe in place. Figure a minimum of two hours to get this done.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Use the technique outlines in the top video with the exception is that I have never had to remove the window guide. There is a way to get the window up high enough and back slightly with the guide still in place.
What is the way?
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 05-18-2017).]
With the stops removed, I've raised the window all the way up and have pushed it to the rear. That will expose th screws. Sometimes takes a few tries but it can be done. I find this easier than trying to remove the two hidden screws from the outside with the right angle phillips screw driver that was developed by Rodney. That way is still a good way to do it but I have not mastered the technique.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Using a box cutter, slice away the old dew wipe rubber. Remove the inner wipe. Loosen the inner felt pads. After lowering the window and removing the outer screws you can raise and tilt the window in slightly. Wood wedges used to square up new door and window frames can be used between Rodney's dew wipe tool and the window to exert force against the tool, keeping it engaged with the screw head. Protects the window and fits in there better than a finger. Place a magnetic pick-up tool below the screw being removed in case it falls.
My only regret is not replacing the two felt pads (the ones riveted to the wipe) at the same time. They still streak the window. Also, your new rivets (if you make your own wipes) are not flush like the original. So I drilled from the inside to allow for a hole for the rivet to sit in. It involves drilling two holes, inner and outer. Then the strip sits nice and flush. The holes are hidden by the inner panel.
Using a box cutter, slice away the old dew wipe rubber. Remove the inner wipe. Loosen the inner felt pads. After lowering the window and removing the outer screws you can raise and tilt the window in slightly. Wood wedges used to square up new door and window frames can be used between Rodney's dew wipe tool and the window to exert force against the tool, keeping it engaged with the screw head. Protects the window and fits in there better than a finger. Place a magnetic pick-up tool below the screw being removed in case it falls.
This method has worked for me on three cars (with the exception of the wood wedges - might need to try that). One thing I do upon reassembly for the middle screws (after raising the window to full height) is to push the screw through the sticky side of a length of masking tape. Then position it on Rodney's tool and tape it down securely around the back. This should hold it in place while you line up the screw with the hole. Once you get that first 1/4 turn to bite you should be able to just twist and pull the tool away and remove any remaining tape under the screw before tightening. Remember not to tighten any of the screws until you have them all started.
Thought that I would bring this thread back up as replacing dew wipes is my least favorite job. Doing one now on a car that was left outside for a few years and its not as easy as the videos show. I will agree with the method shown but it can be difficult removing the screws on the dew wipes. The screws holding the dew wipes in place are often rusted in place. They would not budge with the best screwdrivers, Pried off the old dew wipes with a large screwdriver. This exposes the heads of the screws and being careful not to scratch the sill. Got in there with a small thin chisel and hammered between the screw head and mounting surface. This loosened up the screws so that they can be removed and saved with a magnetic screw driver. The dew wipe screws have shallow heads and are not common hardware items but the Fiero store sells them. If you wish to remove these screws they tend to come out a bit distorted. Just thought that I would relay my experience on taking dew wipe screws out of a 38 year old vehicle. I would count on finding similar problems on most Eastern and Midwest Fieros
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Let me tell you dew wipe replacement can be easy but it can also be excruciating. Doing one now and both sides had screws that could not be turned. Passenger side has been finished and all screws are out on the drivers side, but the head on one screw actually broke off there. Now to figure that one out.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The top one is me. Done a half dozen or so like this, takes about 45 minutes per side.
If you did the dew wipe replacement on the Fiero that I just did, your method is good but unfortunately it wont take 45 minutes per side. . You didn't explain is how to tackle the job when the dew wipe screws are rusted in place. I was able to tap a few out but the heads of two screws broke off. Turned into an all day job. Those OEM screws are very hard and wont drill out, Had to go to the local Mill Supply house and buy two left hand carbide drill bits. Short of that I guess the alternative is to remove the door skin so you can work from both sides but that adds much more time. Now to add electric lock door openers and find a way to get the windows to close all the way down to the dew wipe height. The convertible is nice and if we can get those windows down a bit more it would improve the appearance
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Something that FieroMaster Don Hulse taught me regarding the two middle screw replacements. Using a pair of side cutter pliers, clip the metal below the holes of the dew wipes, making the hole slotted. The two middle screws can be more easily started into the door, then the dew wipe can be slid down over the screws.
Something that FieroMaster Don Hulse taught me regarding the two middle screw replacements. Using a pair of side cutter pliers, clip the metal below the holes of the dew wipes, making the hole slotted. The two middle screws can be more easily started into the door, then the dew wipe can be slid down over the screws.
Actually tried to remove the LH door old dew wipe with the old screws in place. Then we ripped out the old wipe and left the screws open. One eventually was unscrewed by first hammering on it the other was frozen solid and when hammered broke off. Had to drill that stud out using a LH carbide 3/32" drill bit ($10 for that drill bit). Starting with the center screw (the one that goes in the round hole) new wipes screws went in fine. Have replaced many dew wipes in the past, most went relatively easy but this one was a real PITA. Not sure that slotting the new dew wipes Is the best idea but it sounds like it's been done before. We use a magnetic screwdriver
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Yes, you still have to go through the pain and effort to remove the center screws to get the old dew wipe off. The screws are a little easier to get started without the new dew wipe in place. Slot the new dew wipe and slide it down over the two screws.
I've done maybe a half dozen sets and have never removed anything except the door panels and the wipes at the top of the door. Access to the screws was accomplished by raising and lowering and tilting the window out and in. I would use my finger between the window and door to keep the Dickman tool engaged with the center screws. I usually had a very sore finger when finished until I decided to use the wood wedges.
This is a video we did where I replaced a set in the back parking lot of the restaurant after a Georgia Fieros meeting.
Yes, you still have to go through the pain and effort to remove the center screws to get the old dew wipe off. The screws are a little easier to get started without the new dew wipe in place. Slot the new dew wipe and slide it down over the two screws.
I've done maybe a half dozen sets and have never removed anything except the door panels and the wipes at the top of the door. Access to the screws was accomplished by raising and lowering and tilting the window out and in. I would use my finger between the window and door to keep the Dickman tool engaged with the center screws. I usually had a very sore finger when finished until I decided to use the wood wedges.
This is a video we did where I replaced a set in the back parking lot of the restaurant after a Georgia Fieros meeting.
Charlie: I saw that video and you did a great job That method has been used with success but it never worked here. Apparently you are a master at it! We do have the Rodney tool but up this way we deal with NE cars that have seen worse weather than down South or out West. Have done 5 dew wipe jobs myself mainly by removing the rear window track, raising the window up and pushing it over to remove the hard to get at screws . This job was the worst, On the next one with stubborn screws I will try to use an impact screwdriver and see if that works but old rusted in place screws can break off. Now that the job is finished I will move on to fit the electric door lock actuators. Not much space to locate them them but I believe that it's been done before. Have a great day and if you attend Carlisle please be sure to look for me and hello.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
im trying to get my power window door ready to use.i got all the brackets out.can i just pop the rollers off?some of them barely turn.what do i use to oil them and the tracks?where can i get a screwdriver to fit those dew strip screws?none of mine fit.i know about the rodney tool.i got caught in a thunderstorm the other day and had to park the car and walk around to roll up the window.there seems no way to remove the glass without drilling out more rivets.
[This message has been edited by richard in nc (edited 06-16-2025).]
im trying to get my power window door ready to use.i got all the brackets out.can i just pop the rollers off?some of them barely turn.what do i use to oil them and the tracks?where can i get a screwdriver to fit those dew strip screws?none of mine fit.i know about the rodney tool.i got caught in a thunderstorm the other day and had to park the car and walk around to roll up the window.there seems no way to remove the glass without drilling out more rivets.
Refer to video #1 that says it best. . In short put window all the way up. Remove the rear door guide and window stops. push window up and over. Glass stays in place.The hard to reach screws are now accessible. You use a regular phillips magnetic screwdriver to remove dew wipe. No need to pop off/remove the window rollers.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Refer to video #1 that says it best. . In short put window all the way up. Remove the rear door guide and window stops. push window up and over. Glass stays in place.The hard to reach screws are now accessible. You use a regular phillips magnetic screwdriver to remove dew wipe. No need to pop off/remove the window rollers.
i was able to get to all the screws wiggling the glass around.now let me say ive never seen such a stupid design.a window that can't be replaced without carefully drilling out rivets and then replacing them carefully hoping not to break the glass.im sure if gm had better designed the inner door the glass would come out.i bet auto glass companies hate this car.so much for cleaning out the door.
i noticed that the very dirty inner window has a nasty scratch where the inner felt thing is.i ordered new ones.i can't feel the scratch but my fingernail catches it.this is why i wanted to take it all apart and clean everything.i have a glass polish kit i bought to deal with the nasty windshield wiper scratch from when i bought the car.
This post is my experience and comments after using the first video titled “Fiero Dew Wipe Installation”
IMO A person can tackle this job in two basic ways; get the hardware/parts/supplies/tools/etc. first or wait by making a list and then get them later.
If you’re under a time crunch, be prepare by getting these items you think you’ll need before starting.
If time is on your side, I like to disassembly ‘everything’ first, and then get these items on the list, as too often this avoids another trip or order.
Consider Inner Door Panel Retainers; Felt Window Guides; Side Mirror Gaskets; Outer Seal/Wipe Screws, and perhaps Plastic Door Water Shields
First Video
1:30 Minute Mark / Powered Lock Switch Removal The switch has two plastic ‘latches’ or tabs as the author pry the harness connector from the switch, and then prying the connector from the switch pins. He mentions that aged plastic gets brittle and be very careful to not break the switch. But if you’re replacing the switch, nobody cares if the switch breaks…
As options, you can also ‘pop’ the entire switch/connector from the handle bezel than struggle to separate them.
As another easier option, don’t disconnect anything and let the complete handle bezel/switch/connector hang. Simply remove the inner panel and then push the assembly through the panel hole.
4:54 Minute Mark / Powered Mirror Removal {if required} The mirror has a ~6-inch pigtail with a connector which is not visible as it is concealed under the front window guide, making it impossible to disconnect the mirror.
The only way to unplug the mirror is to gently pull the mirror upward as you draw the door wire harness from under the front window guide. When the mirror connector is visible at the top of the track, guide the connector through the door’s opening noting that the door harness doesn’t have a lot of slack.
Capture the connector at the outside of the door, and then open the connector’s latch to separate the mirror’s pigtail from the door’s harness.
DO NOT allow the door harness to fall into the door without a way to ‘fish’ it out; I held the door harness connector at the outside of the door with a spring clamp.
5:50 Minute Mark / The Last Screw This was my first real problem; the window wasn’t high enough to clear the last screw as the glass curves downward, and the author quickly mentions about a ‘small diameter and smooth’ screwdriver. By ‘jogging’ the powered widow upward to get the maximum travel, and pushing the window into the frame, I barely got the screw out.
8:30 Minute Mark / Align the Widow Cam into the Guide The rear widow wheel/cam swivels, so to me, it was vital to ‘see’ when aligning the cam into the track/guide.
The author uses a flexible penlight at 6:34 minute mark; I used a similar item to shine light on the cam.
With some light on the cam, I got the cam in the ‘right’ angle before attempting to align it into the guide and the task was easier.
So at this point of my journey, I didn’t install the new seal after the old one was removed, as I was seeking to resolve another concern; please see the sidebar below:
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Sidebar
Replacement of the outer glass seals {dew wipes} are the mission on this thread, though it’s merely one door task.
Alas, I had an additional and very common door issue to address, slow powered widows.
With the stiff outer seals removed and new window switches, window travel was faster, but not a huge amount.
I learned through the PFF search feature that to properly service the windows, the removal of the door outer panel was required.
Although my original plan didn’t include this extra work, I was in this far, so removing the outer panels was logical.
This process isn’t very difficult {when you gather all the details} and it is only a few more hardware items to put on the list...
With the outer panel off from the door frame, you can renovate all the window tracks/guides and wheels/cams; window motor connectors; door latch and powered lock mechanisms, plus many swap door locks so the ‘less worn’ passenger’s lock can be put on the driver’s side.
