when building New Axles, I prefer to use" New Grease". Question is : exactly What is the reason (besides the grease manufacturer recommends it) to use the "Little packets" of CV Grease (made in Mexico) that costs more than $1 per Once, as apposed to High temp, high Quality grease, or synthetic Grease that costs much less ???? Those little packets they sell, you would need about 6 of them to do Both Ends of 1 AXLE. ( turns out to be about $30 just for Grease !) Grease Guru Help. Thanks

I think the CV joint stuff is loaded with molybdenum disulphide (MoS₂). That's the grey extreme-pressure stuff that's found in gear oil.

I think that's the expensive ingredient.

I don't think that normal wheel bearing and chassis grease contains the stuff.

Whatever grease you buy, make sure it has molybdenum disulphide in it.

yea, I'm aware of "Moly" Grease and Oil. I started using it in the 70s when it first became popular. (even Then, Moly motor Oil was $2.50 a Qt when other oils were $.50 a Qt ! But it Does in fact "Do what it Claimed". I was just wondering IF in the Last 40 YEARS, "Something" Better, or as good (Synthetic ?) was brought to the market.

Lithium based with moly is the black grease for outer joints. The pressures in the caged type rollers need the moly. Other greases will soon turn thin and ooze out. The inners can use the green/gray or yellow as long it is compatable with the boot. But the black moly grease can be used in both types. The safest, is to use what is made for them.
When we replace boots or replace clamps and reseal, we get a bag with about 5oz. Normally plenty to do a joint. We keep bags and different clamps in stock at work. The kit with clamps is about $20.00 from Napa. I like the "pull and fold" type band clamp over the crimp type. GM uses the crimp type. I have found the band type does a better job. With the "pull and fold" tool. The bag comes in handy because you can cut the corner and use it like a cake icing bag. I put the corner of the bag in the center of the joint and force the grease in until I see it starting to come through the "balls" rollers. Then put the center shaft in. The remainder of the grease into the boot and clamp. Be sure to clean off any grease that is on the boot and outer housing where the boot clamps to the housing before clamping.
According to Moog, 8 driving hours with the grease expelled from an outer joint is too long and the joint needs to be replaced.

Earlier this year, I had a case of extreme-pressure steel-on-steel friction (very low speed application, but not a CV joint), and the wear was fairly catastrophic.

Originally I was using "extreme pressure" but non-MoS₂ grease.

I got myself out of that pickle by (among other things) switching to MoS₂-loaded grease.

I'm a believer that's it's good stuff; that it's not snake oil.

I picked up a tub of high temp grease with moly in it at Napa to use in my wheel bearings, it cost as much as the one next to it that didn't have moly. I used about 2% of the tub for one front wheel, its gonna last me a long time.

Lou, you do not want to overfill the boots with grease. When the boot compresses with axle movement, it can cause the boot to split due to hydraulic pressure of the grease. I bag per side ( several oz) is usually all you need. I think I paid about $4 in the Help section. When you buy a boot kit, it is supplied with just that amount of grease, along with the boot and clamp.

quote Originally posted by darbysan: Lou, you do not want to overfill the boots with grease. When the boot compresses with axle movement, it can cause the boot to split due to hydraulic pressure of the grease. I bag per side ( several oz) is usually all you need. I think I paid about $4 in the Help section. When you buy a boot kit, it is supplied with just that amount of grease, along with the boot and clamp.

Yup... Too much grease will made boots or bands to fail soon.
Dorman 3 oz. Packet 03618 is $2 - $4
One pack, maybe two, per CV in most cases.

Grease in the boots is mainly to keep grease in the joint. Is a lot of force trying to "spin dry" lube off the joint. Extra in the boot keep grease level high enough to do the job.

You can get 10 pack of packets thru Ebay etc for < $40.

CV grease isn't same formulas as Many others. Big problem is others have additives will attack the CV boots, brake rubber parts, and so on. (Helps to keep seals soft but ruins boots etc.)

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