so it needs a little tlc i hope but it has not been on the road since 92 so lets hope the engine is ok but i have fond one that is a long block its 1600 for it so i did get some pics for you guys and dont know how to put pics
1600 for a long block 2.8? Who is smoking what? You can go to a junkyard and find 2.8 3.1 and 3.4 as short blocks all day long for 150-250$. If it hasn't ran since 94 hook up the starter and spin the motor over and listen for any funny noises, getting it running is the easy part, getting it running well is the hard part. Good luck ask question and use the search tool there is tons of info on this site
1600 for a long block 2.8? Who is smoking what? You can go to a junkyard and find 2.8 3.1 and 3.4 as short blocks all day long for 150-250$. If it hasn't ran since 94 hook up the starter and spin the motor over and listen for any funny noises, getting it running is the easy part, getting it running well is the hard part. Good luck ask question and use the search tool there is tons of info on this site
I put a new positive cable but when i turn the key it kills the car no power at all but if i play with the smaller cable it will turn the light back on what gage is the smaller one
That has to do with the laws of the state of Georgia, USA.....and the people on this forum live just about everywhere....so we are not the people to ask.
No! Don't have the wife sign it. It needs to be signed by the seller. Make a color photocopy of it and then return it to the seller for their signature. In the meantime, don't do any repairs to the car until you have a signed title firmly in your hand. How'd you like to do the repairs then the owner comes back to claim the car?
Fadingaway is right about the price of the long block. You can get a Grooms Remanufactured 3.4 for just a little more than that. You're close enough to Nashville that you could pick it up and save about $150 shipping costs.
I'm not sure a photo copy of the papers would do any good. You are pretty much at the sellers mercy to sign the paper work. I'm not sure if he is in you area, but meeting him and having him sign it face to face would be your best bet. That would give him less of a chance to be a d*ck.
Do you have some sort of bill of sale? That would help too. For future refernce, make sure that you never pay for a car without the proper documentation sign and given to you at the time of sale. The original owner could literally call the police right now and report it stolen. He'd be able to keep the car plus any money you've given him.
By photocopy of IT, I meant of the title and then return the title to be signed. Having the photocopy of the title along with any witnesses present at the transaction could possibly be used as proof that the car was purchased but the seller failed to sign the title. I bought an 85 from Tennessee that the seller refused to get the title for me. I tracked down the path of sales and got the auction house to get a valid title for me, with me having a Bill of Sale. At the time, a title was required as proof of ownership on an 85 so my Bill of Sale really meant nothing. Once I had the title, the seller signed it for me. In Georgia, all vehicles 85 and later must have a title unless coming from a non-title state.
I have the title in my name so I went on to drop the fuel tank. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter and put new positive and negative cables. now it will crank but not fire so next Im going to try the sparkplugs and the wires and hope it fires up.
I have the title in my name so I went on to drop the fuel tank. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter and put new positive and negative cables. now it will crank but not fire so next Im going to try the sparkplugs and the wires and hope it fires up.
Before you jump to change anything (though a tune-up wouldn't hurt anyway), you should check one system at a time. Have you checked that you are now getting fuel? You could have a bad pump relay.
EDIT: Make sure you have new fuel, with some injector cleaner too...
[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 01-11-2014).]
Before you jump to change anything (though a tune-up wouldn't hurt anyway), you should check one system at a time. Have you checked that you are now getting fuel? You could have a bad pump relay.
EDIT: Make sure you have new fuel, with some injector cleaner too...
I do have new fuel but no cleaner. I know the pump is coming on but how can i check the fuel at the fuel rail. C an i just loosen the bolt and then try and crank?
Confirm you have spark by pulling a plug wire, inserting a spare plug and grounding it while someone cranks the engine. If you do have spark, spray some carb or brake cleaner into the throttle body and crank. If it fires, you know it's fuel related. If not, I'd first replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM). It's the flat black module inside the distributor with a pigtail plugged into the back side and 2 harness connectors plugged into the front side. The module controls both ignition and fuel. A common failure item. Always carry a spare with you.
If you have to replace the ICM, pick up some white heat sink grease at Radio Shack. Far better than that stuff that comes with the module. Coat the metal plate on the bottom of the new module before installing.
Confirm you have spark by pulling a plug wire, inserting a spare plug and grounding it while someone cranks the engine. If you do have spark, spray some carb or brake cleaner into the throttle body and crank. If it fires, you know it's fuel related. If not, I'd first replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM). It's the flat black module inside the distributor with a pigtail plugged into the back side and 2 harness connectors plugged into the front side. The module controls both ignition and fuel. A common failure item. Always carry a spare with you.
If you have to replace the ICM, pick up some white heat sink grease at Radio Shack. Far better than that stuff that comes with the module. Coat the metal plate on the bottom of the new module before installing.
I will go to do that to day and see what it dose and thank you all for your time
I juts got back on it to day anb i have fuel i thin 39 or 40 psi but I also looked and i have spark and i found three icm in the car two that are GM and on is hong kong one so i will take them to the parts store and have the look at them to see if they are any good so i will updeat as soon as i know and i will have my buddy come check the timing
If you have spark and fuel, then you should get it to fire off, even if only briefly. The ECM pressurizes the system, at least enough to allow it to fire off, but then the ignition module takes over to run the fuel pump.
40 psi is a tad low for fuel pressure when not running. It should be at that level when idling. Turn the ignition on and off several times then check pressure. Try spraying fluid into the intake to see if it will fire.
If you have spark and fuel, then you should get it to fire off, even if only briefly. The ECM pressurizes the system, at least enough to allow it to fire off, but then the ignition module takes over to run the fuel pump.
40 psi is a tad low for fuel pressure when not running. It should be at that level when idling. Turn the ignition on and off several times then check pressure. Try spraying fluid into the intake to see if it will fire.
Keep at it, sounds like you're getting close.
Its getting there but it weill fire for a second or 2
[This message has been edited by classic ccg (edited 01-14-2014).]
At ignition on, the ECM runs the fuel pump for about 1.8 seconds or until the system reaches about 43 psi, whichever comes first. If it fires for a second or two, it's doing it on the prime pressure from the ECM. As soon as it fires, the ICM takes over and controls the fuel pump. Check both injector fuses in the fuse panel. Also, when you swap in one of the other ICM's, look at the pins in the 4 pin harness. Be sure all of them are almost flush with the end of the rubber. Sometimes, the connectors will get pushed back by the pins on the ICM and they loose contact. The 2nd from right as it's installed is the fuel pump signal.
At ignition on, the ECM runs the fuel pump for about 1.8 seconds or until the system reaches about 43 psi, whichever comes first. If it fires for a second or two, it's doing it on the prime pressure from the ECM. As soon as it fires, the ICM takes over and controls the fuel pump. Check both injector fuses in the fuse panel. Also, when you swap in one of the other ICM's, look at the pins in the 4 pin harness. Be sure all of them are almost flush with the end of the rubber. Sometimes, the connectors will get pushed back by the pins on the ICM and they loose contact. The 2nd from right as it's installed is the fuel pump signal.
I also i checked the fuses and they are good. im going to reinstall one of the ICM now and now when i crank it fuel PSI is 42 or 43 now
