Ok so i needed to replace the slave cylinder on my 85 gt but im having trouble bleeding the clutch hydraulics ive here for a day now trying to bleed the slave. I know the clutch master cyl is good no leak on floor, the pedal or clutch master rod isnt bent. And the clutch grabs nice and low before i replaced.

So my question is does the slave cylinder have to higher then the clutch mast cyl for bleeding maybe a air pocket is getting stuck somewhere because the slave is lower then the clutch master cylinder

bump as i will be needing to replace mine soon.

This spring I decided to flush the fluid on a clutch that was working fine....no problems with it for years.

I could not get the air out of the system after about a dozen tries. I jacked up the driver's side of the car to make sure that the slave was tipping up towards the bleeder, and still had no success. Then, instead of pushing the pedal all the way down before opening the bleeder, I pushed the pedal only to the point where I met resistance, and as the fluid was bleeding, the pedal got lower.... instant success.

I have NO explanation for why this worked.

My most successful method has been gravity bleeding. It's a one-man operation. The master cylinder must be higher than the slave. This also raises the bleeder end of the slave to allow air bubbles to flow up to the bleeder end. There's no pumping that breaks up the air bubbles or need to try to push the pushrod into the slave.

Jack up the left front until the wheel comes off the ground. You want to leave the rear wheel on the ground. If you don't have a floor jack, park the vehicle at a 45 degree angle on a steep driveway or slope.
Remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir and fill it completely to the top.
Open the bleeder on the slave and let the fluid flow.
Occasionally tap on the side of the slave with a heavy wrench or ratchet handle to break loose any air bubbles in the pushrod end of the slave.
As the fluid nears the bottom of the master reservoir, refill it completely to the top.
Repeat the fillup 3 times. This is enough fluid flowing through to take out all air bubbles.
After the 3rd fill up, allow the fluid to reach the FULL mark and close the slave bleeder.
Replace the reservoir cap.

No matter what i fing do with it, it still doesnt wanna bleed correctly im getting so fed up with it that im at the point of just junking it amd calling it a day or if someone wants a good donor 3800 swap come get it first 500 bucks drives it home or tow it cause i dont care about it anymore

Im located in new Bedford ma 02740 if u want it local pick up only

[This message has been edited by pontiacfierokid1985 (edited 11-18-2013).]

Kid,

If you have not bled the Slave, you probably have air trapped inside that is nearly impossible to get out through normal bleeding.

To bleed the slave you must compress the slave pushrod and hold it compressed while you bleed the rest of the system. Some folks use a wooden wedge to hold it compressed or vice grips.....I use a small ratchetting pipe clamp. Open the bleeder and compress the slave....you will probably see bubbles! Keep the slave compressed and do a normal bleed.....close the bleeder and release the slave push rod allowing the slave to fill....it will fill with no bubbles inside!

Oh, and if you have not already done so REPLACE you existing slave with one from Rodney Dickman!

Larry

every Fiero must have the double seal slave piston ,even a brand new slave should have the double seal piston installed in it
always use V8 archie bleed method, it is on his site
Go to Rodney Dickman fiero site & get the appropiate double seal piston for your car
transmissions are expensive & the single seal piston has destroyed many thousands
of Fiero transmissions.

The double seal piston is much easier to bleed & its cheap..
often honing the old cylinder & install of double seal piston resurect the old slave cylinder

IIRC, the slave cylinder is tilted with the highest point being away from the bleed screw. This creates an air pocket. Pushing in on the piston while bleeding will push out most of the air. However, I'd recommend loosening the slave, and tilting it so that the bleed screw is the highest point.

I also recommend using a pressure bleeder. I've bled my system 4 times (if you don't count all the re-bleed cycles to get out all the air). The last two were with a Motiv pressure bleeder, and it was MUCH easier. The pressure bleeder takes about 15 minutes to get it all hooked up and pressurized without leaking. Then it takes about 5 seconds to bleed it.