Hey everyone...so...i finally fixed the shifter on my car, honestly im not even sure what the issue was...rebuilt the shifter and it works 90% better, yay!
Last question....
Ive been trying to find the source to my lack of power issue...i had it diagnosed by a tech...(a good tech) said my electrical was good, nothing there, smoke tested my car, he found that i had a big leak on my lower plenum gasket...so i replaced that, put it all back together, my power def increased but only a little...before the gasket replace, i was about 50%...now i'd say im at 60-70% but im still lacking accel and when i shift into the higher gears, like 4-5...then step on the gas a bit? The engine makes a bad sound...like rattling noise...for a few seconds until the rpm gets to about 1500, then it dies off and makes its normal engine noise. WTF?
When my tech was diagnosing it, he said he didnt think my lack of power issue was mechanical. The engine worked fantastic before my rebuild. And i didnt mod the engine after the rebuild of my car. So im not sure whats up with her, i have NO check engine lights...and no more vacuume leaks. Does ANYONE have any idea what else i can check/try? I would be forever grateful.
Other info
Fuel pump is new getting good voltage and oil pressure Shouldnt have anymore vacuume leaks electricle checks good no check engine lights needs an alignment bad
When i turned my engine on and went under the decklid, i held my throttle body with my hand for a few moments to about 2000 rpm. I listened carefully, and it seemed like my car was stuttering ever so slightly or "missing"....and the engine sounds a little ruff...hope that helps
no i did not, I didnt really rebuild the engine...just the whole car, then out my old engine back in the new frame. I did take out the fuel rail and lower intake manifolds..Buts thats it.
After doing some reading, im thinking i either have an exhaust leak...or worse...my injector connectors are not working correctly....one thing i did when i took the fuel rail out was accidentally broke a couple injector wiring harness connectors so they didnt CLICK in the injectors? So i cut them off the harness and bought new connectors...i then twisted the harness end and the connector ends together, electrical taped everything and put the engine back together...im wondering if i screwed anything up there...maybe something isnt tight...
My mechanic checked me timing, its fine.
Is there a method or way to check to see if its the injector connectors? like maybe one or two of my fuel injectors are not getting power? so there not squirting any fuel? Im not sure...thoughts?
but im still lacking accel and when i shift into the higher gears, like 4-5...then step on the gas a bit? The engine makes a bad sound...like rattling noise...for a few seconds until the rpm gets to about 1500
I'm thinking higher gear under 1500 rpm and accelerating is probably too high of a gear for that rpm. You may not have any problem there.
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Originally posted by 4thfiero:
no i did not, I didnt really rebuild the engine...just the whole car, then out my old engine back in the new frame. I did take out the fuel rail and lower intake manifolds..Buts thats it.
After doing some reading, im thinking i either have an exhaust leak...or worse...my injector connectors are not working correctly....one thing i did when i took the fuel rail out was accidentally broke a couple injector wiring harness connectors so they didnt CLICK in the injectors? So i cut them off the harness and bought new connectors...i then twisted the harness end and the connector ends together, electrical taped everything and put the engine back together...im wondering if i screwed anything up there...maybe something isnt tight...
My mechanic checked me timing, its fine.
Is there a method or way to check to see if its the injector connectors? like maybe one or two of my fuel injectors are not getting power? so there not squirting any fuel? Im not sure...thoughts?
If you had an injector not working I would think at idle you would notice it alot. I mean basically a whole cylinder woudl be "missing".
Start the car cold and feel around for an exhaust leak quick before it gets too hot to touch things. Most likley exhaust leaks are the manifolds, especially the one thats hard to reach by the firewall.
oh sorry read that wrong nvm, what i meant was...like any normal car...when its too high of a gear for whatever rpm...it makes that bogged down low end rumble noise...mine makes a different noise for a few seconds THEN the low rumble noise..which again i'll check for a leak
If I were you I would solder those injector harnesses properly just to cross it off the list. Wrap'n'tape is fine for a field repair but I've seen too many weird intermittent faults come back to butt connectors, 'splices', and twist-and-tape joints to have any confidence in them long-term.
So I dont have the materials to solder those connections yet, but i DID find out i have a bad exhaust leak on my flex hose...that needs to be replaced, so that will account for the ticking noise and louder engine. Could this leak in the flex hose also causing a decrease in performance?
A and B pins jumped? Which connector are you reffering too, ive never heard of that before. The OBD1 connector? if thats not it, can you explain how one would do this and where so i can check properly. Im wondering if it is the timing bcc the engine starts fine, and i never messed with the timing or the distributor/distributor cap at all
Originally posted by 4thfiero:The engine makes a bad sound...like rattling noise...for a few seconds until the rpm gets to about 1500, then it dies off and makes its normal engine noise. WTF?
Don't run it below 1500 rpms. Seriously. I don't like the sounds from my engine at rpms below 1700, so I don't run it below that. High loads at low rpms put excessive loads on bearings.
As for ticking... the injectors tick. That's normal. One day I drove mine with the console cover removed, and I could hear the ticking very well. With the cover in place, it's barely noticable. I listened to your youtube clip, and I didn't hear any clicking. Exhaust leaks are common. I had cracked manifolds, and they caused a lot of ticking as well. However, cracked manifolds won't cause a serious drop in power. They WILL cause a drop in mileage, but power will likely remain unaffected.
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Originally posted by Tyrfin: If I were you I would solder those injector harnesses properly just to cross it off the list. Wrap'n'tape is fine for a field repair but I've seen too many weird intermittent faults come back to butt connectors, 'splices', and twist-and-tape joints to have any confidence in them long-term.
+100. Twisted wires and electrical tape is WAY unacceptable for engine bay wiring. As Tyrfin said, it's fine for a field repair to get you home. But once home, it needs a proper repair. Solder or a good quality crimp. Solder is cheaper. I recommend solder and heat shrink... BEFORE the exposed ends get rusty.
As mentioned, a plugged cat can cause a serious drop in power. BTW, cracked manifolds will result in a rich air/fuel mixture, which will cause a cat to plug before it should.
Its hard to really tell any specific noises in the video , but what hes talking about with the aldl connector is the pins you jumper to get diagnostic readings. You start the car with the pins jumpered , which bypasses the ignitiong timing advance so you can set base timing. Thats what that video will tell you if you haven't seen it yet.
If you have a multimeter , check the ohms between your negative terminal and a good section of your engine block to see if your getting a perfect ground. Undo clean and reconnect the strap ground , and then the grounds on the drivers side of the head.
Check those two things and go from there , i dont really hear anything in the video , im just grasping at ideas that might help you. Also check out your egr tube for leaks , unhook the vacuum to the egr and apply vacuum to see if u can feel or hear it opening and closing.
[This message has been edited by Chris-Winfield (edited 11-21-2013).]
Okay so i finally got my car in to check the timing, and WOW it was out 35 degrees? and the mechanic changed it to 25, so it was 10 degrees off...which is apparently what you would expect changing the timing without jumping the a and b terminals! YAY! its hard to tell right now bcc our roads are so icy currently, but from what i experienced, I did get more power back!
The only issue im having now is that weird noise my engine makes when accelerating from 1500 rpm to anything higher..the engine makes this noise like rushing water girgly noise for a second or 2. I never remember her doing that. I know someone posted they dont like accelerating below 1700 rpm bcc there engine makes that noise too. But mine never did. I think the HP issue we can say is put to bed atm. And thank you to the person who suggested checking the timing again the proper way!
Any idea's what this noise might be, i'll TRY and get a youtube video of the noise to let u listen. Thanks!
Glad to hear you got that sorted out , I have your thread in my favorites I check it every so often. So i'll see the video and hopefully can give you some helpful input.
