So i've been having issues with my engine, as of late my battery would randomly die. I'd have trouble getting the car to fire it would turn turn and then kick over. Last night I replaced the egr and it had been running better than it has in a while. So Today on way home from work I pull into bank put car in park and turn car off. When i go to turn it back on less than a minute later it won't fire, it get 11volts at the battery acroding to my multi-meter. I don't understand this sense i just drove an hour and car was off for a minute. I get jumped and now when it runs the car sounds horrible like its completely off timing its got a real thoaty deep sound, (computer still had power so its not that the computer rested) another hour or so and turn of turn on and it takes a bit but starts up.
So I was assuming my alternator was dieing. I go to get it tested I get yelled at by the autoparts salesmen that my battery terminals are loose. (The genius that thought my amp wires were my battery power cables). long story short he said tighten them and did no test. I left and decided to do a basic test. I unhooked battery while running and it ran for a few seconds then died. Rehooked up battery and started it and it ran untill I put it in gear then it died.
Now I finally managed to get it to stay running but it is running very bad. Keep in mind I have no way to check engine codes so what ideas do you have;
Video of car running uploading.
(Idle is fine) just has a very bad low rpm sound,and still a bad high rpm sound.
Okay, so I tested a diffrent way, got volt meter set up on battery, started car it ran at about 14.7 volts, when i had someone step on gas and idle it around 3k. it steadly dropped in volts. And never went up, when I threw on more power consuming things it dropped instantly below 12. wouldn't pick back up. Sounds like bad regulator?
Also the air sensor on tb, would this cause backfiring if bad? Car is backfiring very bad at low rpm.
Okay, so I tested a diffrent way, got volt meter set up on battery, started car it ran at about 14.7 volts, when i had someone step on gas and idle it around 3k. it steadly dropped in volts. And never went up, when I threw on more power consuming things it dropped instantly below 12. wouldn't pick back up. Sounds like bad regulator?
Also the throttle position sensor on tb, would this cause backfiring if bad? Car is backfiring very bad at low rpm.
Originally posted by Phirewire: Keep in mind I have no way to check engine codes so what ideas do you have
Assuming you have the stock OBD1 system, you can use a paper clip (or one of those fancy keys from The Fiero Store) to pull the codes from the ECM. Remove the panel that surrounds your cigarette lighter by taking out the torx screws and use a paperclip to prope the two ports. You'll have to find the diagram on google as I cannot remember off the top of my head which two they are but I think there are only 3 total so it isn't really too hard. Then turn your ignition to "on" (do not start the car) and the codes will flash through your CEL. There is much info on Google detailing what the codes mean and exactly how to read them. The Fiero uses the same OBD1 as any other GM car from that era.
All that said, if you have done a swap or modification to get you OBD2, auto parts store will scan your codes for free. They won't delete them for you but disconnecting the battery for a little while will do just that.
I hope this helps. If I were you I would go to another parts store and have them do a charge/battery test then go from there (after pulling the codes). Double check all your connections are free of corrosion, ground straps tightly secured, etc. You'd be surprised what array of problems will result from having bad grounds.
Good Luck! -Josh
[This message has been edited by OneSlowFiero (edited 10-16-2013).]
Where all the ground strap locations also I cant check engine codes assuming it has to do with a ground issue
Something else I noticed is wheneber fan kicks on car almost stalls while sitting. My oil preassure gauge doesnt work but when it kicks on it jumps down
Where all the ground strap locations also I cant check engine codes assuming it has to do with a ground issue
Something else I noticed is wheneber fan kicks on car almost stalls while sitting. My oil preassure gauge doesnt work but when it kicks on it jumps down
So there are no codes being thrown by the ECM? I am not sure where all of the ground straps are supposed to be as my car has been tinkered with by the previous owner. I know there is the main one running from the battery to the block (mine is attached to the dogbone bracket) and I know there is another to the decklid. I'm sure someone will be able to chime in with all of the proper locations. Check the Ogre's Cave (link at top and bottom of each page). He may have a diagram of the locations.
Like I said before, I think having the free diagnostic check of your charging system done by a parts store will be a great help in finding what is wrong. Have a different associate help you if you only have one store in your area. Sounds like the last guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
I've recently been told I need a harmonic balancer. I've had similar problems, but they went away with the old battery. Walmart was very good about doing a battery/charging test with printout for free and even told me I didn't need the new battery I intended to buy from them. Most similar retailers will do something similar. The harmonic balancer can slip and eventually rotate. Do you see how that could create these problems?
I've recently been told I need a harmonic balancer. I've had similar problems, but they went away with the old battery. Walmart was very good about doing a battery/charging test with printout for free and even told me I didn't need the new battery I intended to buy from them. Most similar retailers will do something similar. The harmonic balancer can slip and eventually rotate. Do you see how that could create these problems?
looking into that, as the engine vibrates alot, no broken mounts also theres alot of pulley noise.
Whats happening currently is its running rough, so it sounds real low and theres no power. while driving there will be seconds where it will have normal power and then instantly the powers gone. and it backfires and sputters when you hold at an rpm for long.
Look at the hb while idling; is it wobbling? Can the belts be moved with the engine off? Oil on the hb? Google hb symptoms. Also check the timing; does it move?
Good luck.
I've only found two options so far: TFS (actually a Dorman unit, have part #, but it's in car at the moment) with the timing marks in the wrong place, and Summit Racing with three similar options, each over $300. Also pick up a timing cover seal while you're at it; they're cheap and easy to replace with the hb off.
Does anyone know where the thread about the slipping hb went? Very helpful, but can't find it.
[This message has been edited by 85 SE VIN 9 (edited 10-20-2013).]
