I have an '86 Fiero 2m4 which is almost complete (year and a half restoration).
I am waiting to drive it too much because of one issue - the driver's side wheel is cambered in a lot (Top of wheel is tilted in almost 2" over the bottom of the wheel). It has been like this since I saved it from demolition after sitting for 12 years. The passenger's side is fine. I jacked it up and as the car went up, it did not get better (if it did, I'd say a weak spring), I jacked it up again and put a second jack under the lower control arm to simulate its position while on the ground with weight on it. I grabbed the top and bottom of the wheel and tried to wobble it, especially tried to pull the top out, and nothing would give, wobble, or make weird noises. I was suspecting a ball joint, but nothing is budging and nothing is loose.
Thoughts?
There is a couple mom and pop auto shops down here, If I take it to them, will they even know what it is?
If you are going to take it anywhere, take everything off and give it a really good look before hand. Everything from the rotor off the spindle to make sure it is straight, check out the upper control arm, make sure it is straight and true as it should be, As well as the bolt that holds it to the frame. I would take measurements of just about EVERYTHING and compare it to the passanger side to see if anything sticks out. It does not hurt to pull the system apart to get a real look at it. If you do just be mindful of using a pickle fork on any ball joints you do not intend to replace, as well as damage to any boots for anything.
Either way, good luck with it! hope it is nothing major. My car has chewed through the tires that were on it when I bought it. Turns out prev-owner did some... suspension adjustments, towed the rear wheels in a ton, and in the process destroyed the threads on the rear tie rods. So I need a new set to even get it back in alignment.
Are we talking about the front wheels? If so, something is probably bent. The only camber adjustment on the pre 88's is to rotate the ball joint 180 degrees in the upper control arm. That will not come close to making up a 2" difference though....... Might be why the car was parked? If it's the rear, there are two large bolts that hold the rear knuckle to the spring strut. Loosen those and you can make large changes in rear camber!
------------------ Rod Schneider, Ball Ground, Ga. "You can't have too many toys!" 1988 Fiero GT 1987 Porsche 944S 1987 Corvette 1966 Porsche 911 2001 Chrysler 300M Van's RV-6 airplane
I need to take the wheel off and measure things, and compare them to the other side then. What is most likely to get bent that would cause something like this? Control arms?
On a side note - I've been wanting to replace the rubber bushings on the front suspension because it has sat for 12 years. I have moved and just have a storage garage (not the best place to work on something like that. Have you guys had much luck taking fiero's places to be worked on? I am afraid to. (This is probably the wrong site to ask on because we are all natural born Do it yourselfers)
For the camber to be noticeably negative in the front you must have something severely bent or broken. Be sure to check the frame mounts where the upper control arms attach. If they rust through or the welds break that will definitely throw off your camber. I hope that this is not your issue as it is not an easy fix.
Unfortunately it sat in the mud and sunk in over the course of 12 years so it already has gotten a new cradle, oil pan, gas tank, new floorboards, radiator support....etc etc.
I will take a look at it more carefully as soon as I get it here. I also plan on posting a build thread about it. It has been a long journey
The issue is a mix between upper ball joint bolts being loose (yes, the ones that hold it in) - I took them off with my finger....AND deteriorating/old upper control arm bushings. I took the nut off of the upper control arm bolt, and gave it a few hits....nothing moved. I do not have a cutting torch/air chisel/impact wrench/or anything fancy. Is there anything I can do? I am afraid if I do not replace these bushings, it will be cambered for life. I have already ordered new ball joints (upper and lower) as well as new rubber bushings.
Originally posted by bobace455: I took the nut off of the upper control arm bolt, and gave it a few hits....nothing moved. I do not have a cutting torch/air chisel/impact wrench/or anything fancy. Is there anything I can do?
Without those tools, the only thing you can try is to soak it repeatedly with penetrating oil and hope that you will be able to get it loose. While many people here swear by PB Blaster, I have always had better luck with Cyclo "Break Away": The first picture is what the product looked like for many many years. The second picture is what you should find today, as they have changed the packaging appearance in recent times.
Get a can of this stuff and hose down the rusted parts daily for at least a week. After several days of hosing the rusty parts down, you will see the rust disappear. Give that a try and you might be able to remove the bolts without a torch or pneumatic hammer.
[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 10-05-2013).]
