In this post I will explain how to remove pre 88 rear struts . The 88 had a diferent suspension and may not apply . The book says to scribe the position of the strut bracket and nuckle where the two meet, to get alignment close. then stats if changing struts the marks will not be there . so I quess its up to you if you think it will help ( we will see) Tools Needed 3/4 inch breaker bar 3/4 inch ratchet 1/2 inch ratchet 1/2 inch extension hammer 3/4 drive 15/16 socket 13mm deep 1/2 inch drive socket 13 mm 1/2 inch socket penetraiting oil ( such as pb blaster ) jack 1 start by loosining the lug nuts , raise and remove the rear wheels.always use jack stands don't trust your life to a jack alone! NO NEED TO REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPERS but spray the bottom strut bolts with oil , then spray them again , then repeat.
2 The manual has you start by removing the 3 nuts and plates on the top of the strut , in engiene compartment. using the 13mm deep socket I found this adds stress to the strut while trying to remove the bottom bolts. I found it easier to just loosen them to make sure they will come loose later.
3 With the 13 mm regular socket and extension ( makes reaching it easier ) next remove the screw that holds the brake hose on to the strut assembly. support the lower control arm with the Jack , just raise the jack enough to support the control arm without raising it any. and stay clear of the ball joint and grease zerk.
4 Using the 3/4 in breaker bar and 15/16 socket loosen the bottom strut bolts . You will need to repeat the oil, you might need to use every four letter word you know ( I did not however I did pop my shoulder out ) and stand on the breaker bar to get them loose.
5 Now that the nuts are loose, back them out to the end of the bolt. I took the breaker bar on the bolt end and again stood on it , occasionaly getting off to firmly but not hard tapping the nut. This helps to break loose the rust inside, and creates smalll gaps between parts to spray oil in. Once the bolts break loose take the 3/4 drive ratchet with the 15/16 socket and allternate turning the bolt and spraying oil in on the bolt. I did this untill it was free and could be turned by hand. At this point I tapped on the nut untill the bolt moved out and the nut was against the ( keeping the nut on prevents damage to the threads )then backed the nut off more and repeated untill I could take the nut off and pull out the bolts.
6 next go back to the top three nuts holding the struts in the strut tower, ( never remove the center nut on the top of the strut , the spring tenssion can KILL YOU or someone you love! ) Using the 13mm deep socket and 1/2 ratchet to remove the three nuts. the strut will now be loose I lowered the jack supporting the control arm to make a little more room . then just move the strut assembly around untill you get it off the nuckle, and can drop it out of the strut tower.
7 repeat on the other side, This post is assuming you are replacing the struts I am. they are original to the car and far past thier intended life span. I do not intend to take the strut units apart, If your springs or plastic boots around the struts are bad you might need to replace them as well. I plan on taking mine to a shop and letting them take them apart and putting the springs on my new struts. If you are good at using spring compressors you can take the struts apart your self . but I do not recomend thier use if you are not familiar with them, the spring can kick out if not used correctly.
8 Take nap and pain pills for your shoulder ( sorry thats me! ) Instalation is the reverse of what you did.
9 Once you get the them on You need to take the car to get the alignment done , Becare full the car might want to go its way and not yours , try to make it a short trip or have it hauled to the shop. Better safe than sorry! I will try to update this post once I find out how much it costs to have the struts changed out, and if I remember anything that my oldtimers made me forget ( what were we talking about? ) I hope this helps
[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 04-28-2013).]
Nice thread! And GREAT job with the pictures. I just replaced the struts on my 86' this past week. I've done struts before and R&R'ing the spring is not all that much trouble. You do need a spring compressor to do this correctly and safely, but it can be done at home with simple tools. I'm finishing up my front suspension this week and then off to the alignment shop!
[This message has been edited by h.d.fire (edited 04-28-2013).]
Just a "thought", After installing new struts and having it "Aligned", (using the big washer alignment bolts), I "tack welded" I washer on each side "in place", so if the struts need to come off in the future, they will go right back on (Pre Aligned), so another trip to the alignment shop is avoided. Just "scribing" a line on them has never worked out.
In this post I will explain how to remove pre 88 rear struts . The 88 had a diferent suspension and may not apply .
'88s are exactly the same. The top of the strut tower has a different type of plate (its a ring) where the three 13mm nuts attach, but that's it. The big difference on the 88s is down below.
Nice write-up. Anyone who has not done a strut replacement will really appreciate this. If I may just add one tip. Be sure to mark the spring position on the old struts. Then measure and mark the approximate position on the new struts. Next mark the position of where the strut attaches to the chassis bracket. Put the spring back in roughly the same position as the old one came off and align the strut to the chassis bracket.. You will still need the alignment but the car will drive better going to the alignment shop.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
And after you remove the struts, you can either buy new coil\struts together or take your old strut coils and have the coils swaped over to your new struts. I tried swapping out the old struts for the new and it was a beyotch.So I took them to the auto shop.
If you have access to air tools, changing out the springs is not bad. You will also need a spring compressor. I recommend spending the money and get a good one (looks like a big clamp). I have the smaller, cheaper bolt clamps. They work, but it is scary using them.
I have changed Fiero struts and struts on my Aztek. Aztek springs were under a lot if tension, vs Fiero.
When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.
Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case.
When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.
Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case.
I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero. I ended up having the shop swap them because I was running out of time.
When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:
I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero.
Remember, though, that the bolts are not threaded into anything except the nut. Its a straight shaft through the knuckle. Turning it with the ratchet might help get it loose enough for the penetrating oil to work its way inside, but they're designed to be tapped out with a hammer. In a perfect world, that is!
I had to remove my struts from the car with the knuckles still attached. I laid them down on the driveway and beat the bolts out of them with a sledgehammer. Yes, I bought new ones.
The real scary ones are on the newer cars that use aluminum steering knuckles. I've heard of guys breaking the knuckles because the steel bolts had seized themselves into the knuckles. Some Fords, for example, are notorious for that.
Might as well be safe and use some anti-seize on those bolts, for next time.
Might as well be safe and use some anti-seize on those bolts, for next time.
I use anti-seize on every nut and bolt I put back on my cars when I've dismantled something.
But I gotta wonder why automobile assembly plants don't apply a little anti-seize to potentially troublesome fasteners when the cars are originally being built. Yeah yeah, I know... it would increase the cost of each car by a couple of bucks.
I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero. I ended up having the shop swap them because I was running out of time.
On one Fiero we found lower strut bolts rusted in so tight that even a 1/2" impact gun with 650 ft lbs of torque would not move them. Getting the bolts red hot with the torch and hitting with a mallet made no difference. We finally just pulled out the entire chassis bracket/knuckle and replaced it with a good spare and new offset bolts. On very high mileage cars used in an environment where there is rain and or snow this occasionally happens, ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 04-29-2013).]
"Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case." Good point I did order new bolts with the struts, forgot to mention it before . I allways asume what can go wrong will go wrong, In fact I had to order them twice the first set was missing a nut and washer. I got the springs switched over today a local shop did it for $50, the local GM dealer wanted $80. The only hold up now is while taking them off my shoulder made a loud pop and now my right arm is about useless, sore and weak.
Pep Boys wants $315 labor to do the whole job. My plan is to get all the other parts (mounts and so on) and the best struts I can afford and have the whole job done. It just sounds like too dangerous and strenuous a job to attempt and too much to pay to install a cheap set or risk having to do it again.
Thanks for the great instructions, this helped me replace the struts on my 85 last night. The lower strut bolts came out with no problem, only needed a 2 foot pipe with the 1/2" drive ratchet to break them loose. I also replace the front shocks last night. All of the old struts and shocks were completely dead with no gas charge in them. Just need to go get an alignment now.
The torque is the force exerted on the threads of the nut and bolt. That comes in part from contact resistance, but largely from the strut bracket as it's compressed against the knuckle by the head of the bolt and the nut. Seems if you torque it to spec, that would translate to the same amount of clamping force exerted against the knuckle.
Generally, anti-sieze isn't used where there's a possibility of a hazardous failure due to the fastener coming loose. Ancillary items like alternators, power steering pumps and such wouldn't be a problem if anti-sieze were used, but suspension components might create a liability.
This is a good thread and the pictures are (were) very good, but this thread is a very good example of why off-site photo hosing shouldn't be used for something that can be relevant and useful for a long time. For me, all the pictures have disappeared. Any others having problems seeing them?
Actually, the images appear to be hosted by PIP. But they're working now.
On a side note, when I rebuilt my Fiero's suspension in 2004, the big strut bolts had to be "tapped out" with a hydraulic press. Then when I installed the '88 rear suspension a few months ago, it was the same. Needless to say, in both cases I bought new strut bolts. I also cleaned the rust residue out of the bolt holes in the knuckle, and spread anti-seize grease in there.
Generally, anti-sieze isn't used where there's a possibility of a hazardous failure due to the fastener coming loose. Ancillary items like alternators, power steering pumps and such wouldn't be a problem if anti-sieze were used, but suspension components might create a liability.
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:
I also cleaned the rust residue out of the bolt holes in the knuckle, and spread anti-seize grease in there.
I agree with both. Apply the anti-seize to the smooth portion of the bolt that remains inside the hole in the knuckle. Don't apply it to the threaded portion where the nut goes.
By the way, I saw a car in the junkyard recently where the original strut-to-knuckle bolts had lone ago been replaced with ones that were MUCH smaller. Like, maybe half the diameter they should be! With enormous washers on each end to keep the bolt head and nut from pulling through the holes. So to keep the car from losing alignment every time they hit a bump, the bolts had been tightened so much they had actually made the washers dish-shaped! And they were just regular hardware-store grade fasteners, too, not high-strength like those used in actual suspension parts. It was an example of how NOT to do it.
I have a set of Moog K928 Camber Adjusting Bolt Kits on hand for my upcoming strut replacement. They provide for camber adjustment unlike the stock bolts.
------------------ 1984 Indy Fiero
[This message has been edited by ag9123 (edited 03-24-2014).]
side note. if you don't have the camber adjusting bolts you can take an extra axle nut, screw it on a little bit, then use a deep well socket over both axle nuts and a long extension in the socket for leverage to adjust camber.
[This message has been edited by jsmorter (edited 03-17-2014).]
I have a set of Moog K90476 Camber Adjusting Bolt Kits on hand for my upcoming strut replacement. They provide for camber adjustment unlike the stock bolts.
So this is what you want to use? I replaced my struts over winter and soon will head to the alignment shop, stock bolts are in right now. I should bring this K90476 set with me?
So this is what you want to use? I replaced my struts over winter and soon will head to the alignment shop, stock bolts are in right now. I should bring this K90476 set with me?
Great write-up.
One question I have is
Are these a replacement for the top or bottom bolt? Or do I just take a pair to the alignment shop and let them do it?
do I just take a pair to the alignment shop and let them do it?
I still have this question, since I have never aligned a car myself, if i just bring this bolt with they will know how to use it, also if I need to swap them in there before driving over ot get aligned.
Originally posted by 2.5: I still have this question, since I have never aligned a car myself, if i just bring this bolt with they will know how to use it, also if I need to swap them in there before driving over ot get aligned.
In theory, a mechanic should know what a cam bolt is, and how to install it. But nowadays, you never know.
I personally prefer to install the parts myself, eyeball the alignment, then take it to a shop for final alignment adjustment. But if you decide to have the mechanic install them, just make sure he knows where they're supposed to go. And if he gets indignant about that, go find another mechanic.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-18-2014).]
In theory, a mechanic should know what a cam bolt is, and how to install it. But nowadays, you never know.
I personally prefer to install the parts myself, eyeball the alignment, then take it to a shop for final alignment adjustment. But if you decide to have the mechanic install them, just make sure he knows where they're supposed to go. And if he gets indignant about that, go find another mechanic.
Thanks, I'm not sure how to even eyeball an alignment but I would try. Do you use a yard stick or something?
OK just making sure, this part "K90476 " says it doesn't fit Fiero are we sure it works? Also I will need 2, correct? One for each lower strut bolt replacement? Are they the same bolt each side or is there left and right version?
2.5 just pointed out to me that the part number I listed is incorrect for the Fiero. It should be K928 per MOOG online. The K90476 number that Amazon says fits is apparently not correct. However, PepBoys shows the K90476 number works. here's the K928. Had a much longer eccentric cam than the K90476 part. maybe both will work?
I need to replace my struts, but I also need new springs. My biggest problem is finding new OEM springs for a 1986 Fiero GT. The only springs I can find are lowering springs, and I want to return my vehicle to stock ride-hight (way too low to the ground). Summit Racing has MOOG 5415 coil spring listed on eBay, that says that it's compatible, but when I called Summit to verify compatibility, they could not confirm. So I called the MOOG (Federal-Mogul) Auto Division., but it was after-hours for their Tech Department.
Does anybody know the part number for the rear coil springs for an '86 Fiero, or a different vehicle with the same spring?