Hey, I started this project quite a long time ago, stalled out on progress due to time and money. I have recently resumed my build progress locating bolts etc. I received a timing chain / camshaft key from ZZP. TurboSlug has video that I’m referring to for gapping the rings.
I got this’08 Buick 3800 N/A block, from Danny McM. It had very low Km’s. I wanted to make sure everything will work in together all at once. I am using 8:1 J/E forged with ZZP 4340 rods. Those SpiroLox did cause me to use some expletives. SummitRacing has a good video for those little cocksuckers. “Engine Building 101”
I ordered an extra bag of the bolts that go into the side of the main caps. Because I misplaced one of them. I took a screenshot of the .pdf from GM dealer to make it easier to reference p/n’s.
I chose a low compression at only 8:1 ? Turbo. I want to make sure it’s going to run as cool as possible, low grade 87 octane and not E85 . It’s not convenient for me. I want to be able to cruise comfortably to events etc. I don’t have a good 3800 manual to quickly reference or look up specific torque ratings and tolerances. Bolt under head length etc.
That top ring just barely slides through the gap with lubrication. I’m not filing anything until I have solid information on my ring gap settings.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 08-17-2022).]
I torqued the bottom end according to 3800Pro.com and my Snap-On torque wrench wasn’t working. It works really good now, it has an angle meter 30ft.lb then 35*+35*+40* I was within a degree or two a couple of times but it’s fairly well done. The block and threads were all cleaned lubed with the ARP grease. I just cleaned the aluminum pan to help keep it covered from contaminants.
Thanks for mentioning my vids for your ring gapping👍😉 Wow! Those aluminium ZZP heads look great. I bet they cost more than I paid for my Fiero! 😃😆😁 Keep up the good work👌
Once I get an electric water pump, I’m gonna ditch the upper mount and tensioner, fabricate with some aluminum plate a factory ‘88 style alternator bracket to mount my ‘88 Fiero alternator. I’m also looking for oil cooler and remote filter adapter if anyone else has that sort of set-up? Accumulator? Looking at Earl’s. for some plumbing and fittings.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 07-21-2022).]
Hi there. I don't want to be a bummer but I think you will have a little trouble getting your exhaust manifolds into place? The ARP studs are sticking up too much in my opinion. On my engine, the the height of the nut and washer is enough to cause slight interference with putting on the exhaust manifold flange. I set the stud heights to be flush with the top of the nut once tight. I hope it's OK for you!
I just ordered a whole case of Red Line synthetic gear oil 75/90 GL-4 from Amazon yesterday. Ouch ! I have the Spec aluminum flywheel for 3800 and Spec stage 3+ clutch. Axles from The Driveshaft Shop 4340 ‘05-‘07 Cobalt SS. My project was set aside for some time and it has now resumed. Yes I am still doing the F40 swap. I’m hoping to have it done for the 40th.
I was at Carslisle with Adam and Luke and his dad in 2014. There was a car there with basically the same equipment. I called Adam over to check it out. That was the ah-Ha ! Moment. It was the inspiration for my own build. I asked Adam the other day, “who’s car was that?” He said he’s never seen it since, maybe Jean would know. I’m still curious. I’ve never found that car on here. My jaw dropped when I looked into the engine bay. I didn’t even take a pic. Can’t recall the exterior.
I was looking at Eric White’s LS4/F40 on FB. I commented and liked that beautiful ‘88 Notchie. I’m a notchie. Anyway I was also looking at Pickardt’s LS4 cradle/ jackshaft carrier. I don’t have my welding equipment anymore. I need to fabricate a similar mount for the 3800 /F40 jackshaft and also a ‘88 factory style alternator bracket to mount either an actual ‘88 alternator or one of my MSD 160 amp alternator that fits a stock style bracket. I think 3/8” aluminum plate and bar stock to be able to rotate the alternator on radius and tighten with a bolt. This will eliminate the tensioner when I pop on an electric pump. I’m tempted to order it today. I may as well. HD version polished? I also still need a stupid 440 cam bearing that is impossible to find around here. I’m just gonna order from SummitRacing and I am putting a primer system on it. Accumulator 3 qt. Check valve, with selenoid activated switch. No dry start. cooler and remote oil filter. That’s why my swap take so long. If I could just live in the parking lot at SummitRacing. I did sleep in the parking lot in Ohio coming back from Gold Rush trailers in Denver PA a few years ago. This motor with LS style full floating wrist pins and everything brand new. I am going to take extra protection. I don’t have a preload tool to do the diff myself but it’s NOS so I’m thinking as long as I torque it properly I shouldn’t need it?
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 07-23-2022).]
I was almost going to bypass getting the rotating assembly balanced. Cory B. from Lethbridge was helpful in putting me in touch with LT Industries in Lethbridge. I was waiting to hear back from Lloyd and then after I was viewing Larry Chen’s video from the LS Fest Corvair. I texted him again. He said it was a good thing I did, so it’s fully balanced now with the ATI balancer / Spec aluminum wheel, 4340 rods and forged pistons. The issue at the moment is I’ll need to pull the balancer off. I’m waiting on ATI balancer removal set and T40 Torx from Summit. That balancer is discontinued so I don’t want to ham this removal, use proper tools. Also received my Meziere HD polished water pump, HD Intercooler pump last week from ZZP. All good !
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 08-17-2022).]
After watching Richard Holdener’s Big Bang 3800 Turbo Video, I noticed he was running Holley EFI. When he removed the plate away from the M90 case that engine was making good power. I was looking for any other 3800 turbo applications with the Holley EFI. Trying to see who’s getting the highest rating. The Chicago Garage article outlines most of the information how to convert crank signal for a Terminator. I realized there’s no way I can use HP sauce. The Kenne Bell style doghouse that I bought from BVMotorsports has the flange for L67 throttle body. I have a downturn adapter from ZZP to use a newer throttle body. This should help me avoid cutting my deck lid. I am going to feel a lot better about spinning this flywheel right behind my ass under boost. Not sure what to expect for power but it should be up there.
I gotta be the only person to have ever fit those Koni 50mm sleeves on to a pair of Koni’s reds. I had to file maybe ten thou’ off the strut body all the way around at the top. Using my file like a straight edge. Tedious job ! The struts are kinda fluted at the top. They slide on for a nice tight fit. I wanted to try it on my oldest pair first. I’m gonna clean them up a bit electrolysis rust removal, prime and fresh paint. I’m not too happy with Rockauto.
Looks good Rob! Was always impressed with your skills for someone who is not even a mechanic by trade! Will you be running any kind of intercooler with the turbo?
I gotta be the only person to have ever fit those Koni 50mm sleeves on to a pair of Koni’s reds. The struts are kinda fluted at the top.
For the older konis with the swaged top, A-1 racing sells a sleeve with a 2.100" ID that will fit w/o any modifications needed. https://www.a1racing.com/A1...oil_Over_Sleeve.aspx You can use rubber o-rings or electrical tape to close the gap between the sleeve and housing. They might have a shorter one that will work better with the sleeve sitting on top of the stock spring perch weld bead.
The newer versions of the konis just the threaded cap was oversized (body was not swaged), so I would turn down the cap on the lathe so that my normal sleeves would slide over.
@Fieroguru, thanks for adding addition info, yea I’ve had those Koni sleeves for quite a long time.
@cam-a-lot, it has a full stack 2” air to water and just got my ZZP HD intercooler pump. I have a lot of attention to cooling with this entire set up. I don’t really like additional vents, scoops or wings. Not on this car. The luggage rack will hold my suitcase.
Because I only finally got everything balanced, waited for ATI balancer removal set. It actually worked very well after I watched a video of someone removing it from a Honda engine. I also picked up a Proform ring grinding wheel just before making arrangement to get balanced crank. I gapped two cylinders 1-3 last night, installed yesterday. My case of Redline MT 75/90 GL4 synthetic arrived. I do have a nos Quaife but getting my hands on a welder is more important, first I want to drive it regardless or as naturally aspirated. I still need a 440 cam bearing and a couple packs of ARP sbc cam bolts for my fly.
Someone questioned my technique in filing the struts to fit the sleeves as a safety concern. I had to remove metal from the tubes at the top. It was a tedious job as I have mentioned and it took close attention, checking the witness markings as I fit them. So I’m not going to encourage others to follow this method. I am satisfied and took the risk of possibly ruining a good set of struts.
I am pleased with a compact lighter weight assembly. 4” sleeve and a 6” length, 350# spring.
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