I’ve got the opportunity to buy an 88 Fiero Mera Ferrari kit T top with 30k on the clock. Any idea what they’re worth when restored? Just so I can see if it’s worth buying it. It’s in good condition although a seat needs to be repaired. It’s been sat for 10 years in a garage so will need a bit of tlc to get it started I think.
a t-top, manual, mera with the power mirrors intact... yeah if its under 12k buy it. you will need to put between 5-10k into fixing it back up to show room condition. I would leave it completely stock even with that steering wheel. It was origionally a formula car and i think they used less formulas than gt cars when they did the conversion. probably one of under 10 ever built.
That is a really cool car, but I don’t believe it’s an ‘88. That tan interior is not beechwood, and the strut towers look pre ‘88. Not being ‘88 could reduce value because it wouldn’t be CJB t top as well.
[This message has been edited by copperhens (edited 01-05-2022).]
a t-top, manual, mera with the power mirrors intact... yeah if its under 12k buy it. you will need to put between 5-10k into fixing it back up to show room condition. I would leave it completely stock even with that steering wheel. It was origionally a formula car and i think they used less formulas than gt cars when they did the conversion. probably one of under 10 ever built.
In 1988 there were supposedly only six Meras constructed on a GT platform. The rest used a Formula platform since it was supposedly slightly less expensive. I do happen to have one of the GT platform Meras and until recently also a Formula based Mera. There appear to be some differences in wiring for the lights but I do not know any detailed differences when comparing the two models.
This looks to be one of the first 30 Meras, all SE based, and yes, a 1987. Here is a link that might be helpful with a restoration showing a stock early example. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...HTML/077195-176.html
[This message has been edited by Rexgirl (edited 01-05-2022).]
Thanks for all the replies guys, so if it’s an 87 how would that effect the price if I restore it and what’s it currently worth roughly? Providing I can get it started lol
Yeah I noticed the mileage as well. I’m wondering if they meant to type 50k and hit a 3 by mistake. Will find out when I get to have a look at it. I’m just going off the photos at the moment. Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for?
While rare and desirable, its obviously been siting a while, so as with any old car that's been sitting its going to need completely gone through (tires, fluids, systems, etc).
What to look for? Everything a Fiero has... Coolant tubes, undercarriage rust / damage, water damage, fiberglass condition, does engine turn over, clutch pedal/fork operate freely, what do the fluids look like, Mera identification and/or paperwork, and on and on and on...
No idea about all the keys lol so I can get it for $4250 plus replacement pink slip etc so will be around 5k. Worthwhile getting it then I’m guessing then. My other cars are Z4’s so I’m presume this won’t be that hard to work on myself?
I would not hesitate to purchase it for that amount. You will have a unique car that most people don't know exists and have never seen. Only 247 plus the 1986 prototype were built and 39 of those were sent to Japan. I have had my 88 for 9 years, it's great fun to drive and I still enjoy telling the Mera story when people ask about it.
There is lots of info in the "A Real Mera in Paradise" thread, I read the whole thread while I was waiting for the transporter to deliver mine, and also a Mera facebook group.
At that price, your investment in time and money should be justified. Still, look carefully for rust, starting in the trunk under the carpet and by looking at the area behind and above the rear wheels. But rust can live anywhere and if it's serious, it may be a game changer. And yes, it's a great idea to research this forum for information. There is a lot of real expertise here.
Originally posted by Rexgirl: Still, look carefully for rust, starting in the trunk under the carpet and by looking at the area behind and above the rear wheels. But rust can live anywhere and if it's serious, it may be a game changer. And yes, it's a great idea to research this forum for information. There is a lot of real expertise here.
Yup... Rust damage make Many cars junk cars. Fiero "plastic" bodies like to hind big rust problems. Example: You need to see behind rear fenders by looking up in spaces when under the car to see condition of upper frame.
Rust happens even on "low mile" and "garage store" cars.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
A friend bought an 88 Mera a couple of years ago from the LA area and it does not have any rust at all. The car you are looking at does not appear to have spent any time sitting out in the weather but I would check the usual places for any rust damage. Google "fiero rust issues" and click images to see where to look.
If you don't buy it, send me the vendors name. I'll buy it as-is, where-is for that money and bring it to live with me in Australia with my other Fieros.
If you don't buy it, send me the vendors name. I'll buy it as-is, where-is for that money and bring it to live with me in Australia with my other Fieros.
Be aware that mileage is EXCEEDING simple to change in a fiero, so i'd verify the mileage. But his might not be important anyway. I bought an 88 formula with 40k original miles from a guy in san diego. Car was a museum piece. Original window sticker, etc.
Worst car deal i ever made. From sitting around, the whole cooling system needed refurbished and the high quality plastic radiator used by GM (may the burn in hell), cracked and left me stranded in Lake Tahoe (thanks again FieroBear ). No one had a stock one, and I got a shop to adapt one for me. Total $800.
Figure new shocks, tune-up with pick-up coil, wires, an alternator that will probably go sooner than later. Battery another $100-200.
Then you can start on the "normal" things GM built into the car like sagging plastic door hinges and phantom wipers. Sit in the drivers seat and pull the steering wheel in and out. If it moves, figure the 4 bolts in the column need tightened by digging into the column or probably $200 for someone to do it for you. If you don't fix it, the column will continue to get looser with more and more play until the car will be too scary to drive (for me anyway).
ANY time you take the car ANYWHERE for service, tell them about the coolant tubes and check them before you pay the bill to make sure they're not bent.
If that car has the 1st generation headlights, I wouldn't tough it with a 10 foot pole unless you REALLY have nothing better to do for a weekend and replace the entire system, harness and all, with a gen 2 system if you can find one.
And don't even try to forget about the A/C system that may be the original R12 freon.
Now you've got $15 - $20 grand into a 135 hp V6 powered 40 year old car, when you could be driving a new generation (2010+) camaro instead. I would have recommended looking for a corvette but people are just plain stupid with old car prices.
You will have more money into that thing than you'll ever get out, if you can find that special buyer later down the road.
That's a hobby car - one you buy for something to do, maybe take it to shows, etc. but CERTAINLY NOT one you want to start even considering costs of.
Just my free advice.
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 01-08-2022).]
Most or all of what PaulJK said applies to all old cars > ~ 10 years let alone 20 - 30 years... Most Anyone thinks Fiero and more are good now for daily ride w/o problems are only gambling at best.
1 example: Fixing or Restoring Fiero Brakes system alone can cost a lot even 20 years ago. Now hard to get good calipers for rebuild companies. More so for rear calipers. You can't get New calipers from most parts stores now. Many don't have rebuilt units either. That's on top of Most DIY crowd and Many "pros" do a crap job fixing brake systems then blame OE design for every problem.
When parked for years to decades coolant and other systems "rot" even while sitting in tightly controlled environments. Because Coolant anti-rust and other additives wears out sitting in a car. Water Pump shaft can rust and attack the seal then seal fails after driving a day to weeks after storing. WP Needs the very tiny leak at the seal to fight rust in this spot and to lube the seal. So Parked for months to years then expect WP and other coolant parts to fail soon when you drive again.
Tires, Bushings, Belts, Hoses and more can "rot" when parked too. Worse if parked on grass or dirt.
If you live in NY and other states w/ heavy road salt use then rust is even more of a problems and can trash a vehicle in 5-7 years. Near ocean can do same thing. Go to LBI NJ and many other places and can almost watch rust eating everything as salt spray attacks them.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
[img]https://images.fiero.nl/userimages/Neilc/E4EA2D8A-C360-4883-89F9- 8919A0D90B03.jpeg[/img]
). No one had a stock one, and I got a shop to adapt one for me. Total $800.
