Well the Fiero has been together for about 7 years/60k miles now and needs a refresh. I scored a new crate engine on Ebay for $300. It just needs my better pistons and bottom end bolts from the current engine. While tearing down the old engine, I discovered the timing chain guide disintegrated and collected in the oil pump pickup. Yikes.
While I have things apart, it is time for some upgrades too. I made ~415 whp on the GT3071r. Bigger is always better, so I am going with a GT3076r with 500 whp as the target. When I was researching the new turbo, I discovered that Garrett made a 3071 with both a 56.5mm turbine and a 60mm turbine. I have long complained about my ATP housing for sucking ass. It turns out, it is designed for the 60mm wheel and I have the 56.5 (all that was available when introduced). So I have been running with basically an air gap around the turbine. Not good for spool or effeciency. The 3076r uses the 60mm turbine, so I can drop it into my current hot side and not change the exhaust. While I am at it, Ching Chong has some decent water to air intercoolers that I am going to install. With the engine in the back, I don't have the best layout for my air to air.
Timing chain guide failure. Guide missing on left.
I'm glad she's getting some upgrades! I hope you meet your goals. I pulled my turbo too and am in the middle up of upgrading (kind of) to a Precision 6176sp. It's the same size in virtually every manner but it has a better compressor wheel on it.
------------------ '88 GT- 3800 Turbo 11.367@121.03mph FOR SALE GM Tuners
No plans for trans upgrade. I have the stronger diff. I am going to use a better pressure plate. I don't think a stock one will be up to the task with almost 100 more whp. Same disk though.
Wow. Most people expect something to go wrong with the timing belt, not the timing chain.
I must admit that I like the timing belt layout of my Stealth(3000GT) engine better. No timing chain. The belt is driven by the crank and the timing belt turns the water pump. So if the serpentine belt ever breaks or jumps, then you don't have to stop immediately. I have had a serpentine belt fail on my 2.8 and Duke and each time I had to shut off the engine and get off the highway in a hurry.
I'm curious, why are you tearing down the brand new engine? Are you installing forged parts?
I'm glad that you are shooting for 500 hp. I think you can do it with this engine.
The stock pistons are plain old cast and fairly thin. I don't think they would hold up to boost. The hypereutectic versions are much better quality and so far good enough. I am swapping in those pistons and the rods that have ARP hardware.
Be sure to check the valve seals I bought one of the crate engines and it is smoking on cold start up after setting I am not sure if its coming from the seals or just isnt broke in yet though
Erik, I was worried about that. It appears mine was made in 96 or 97. That is a long time ago! Since I have it apart and needed a new gasket kit, I am replacing the seals.
Thats, um... interesting. Your crate engine has 96-97 pistons. They were flat tops from 91-95. In 96 they got what you have there, a raised center. I guess since it was made after the production initial run, they used the current pistons of the day. I bet your front valve cover wasn't painted either. Crate motors are funny like that. Just so you are aware, since those pistons are 96-97 style they are hypereutectic. If you look under the bottom of the piston, you will see steel inserts around the inside of the skirt too.
I'm also noticing a few other interesting quirks about your motor. It doesn't have an oil level sensor, nor an oil filter spacer/sensor manifold. Both of which are found on 94-95 engines, I see one on your motor that you pulled. It also looks like it has the 94-95 front valve cover, which has provisions for the cam sensor, yet you have no cam and no crank sensors. And, it has 94-95 cam sprockets. So... it's a strange motor, not something that ever came from the showroom floor like that.
Im looking forward to seeing how this comes together. I have always had my eyes on this car and project. I've been wanting to boost my 3.4 forever too.
Not sure about the pistons. The Sealed Power hypereutectics have a lower ring pack though. I am a fan of that. Also, the casting and machine quality of the SP seems much higher than the factory jobs. One thing that is curious is the exhaust valves. They are different than the stock pieces. I wonder if they are just SS and not sodium filled like the originals (expensive). The pistons in the engine also had a 4mm oil ring. I thought all factory cars had 3mm.
Matt, I'm interested in what exhaust you're using with this set up. That engine breathes so much better than most I've seen/heard and moves a bunch of air. Most exhausts I've heard would seem to be restrictive. I'd like to free up my exhaust on my 3.4 TDC but, I don't want something loud. Already lost too much of my hearing due to poor choices, don't want to lose what little I have left.
Matt, I'm interested in what exhaust you're using with this set up. That engine breathes so much better than most I've seen/heard and moves a bunch of air. Most exhausts I've heard would seem to be restrictive. I'd like to free up my exhaust on my 3.4 TDC but, I don't want something loud. Already lost too much of my hearing due to poor choices, don't want to lose what little I have left.
I am using custom stainless headers I built. I have a 40 series muffler and the car isn't that loud in the cabin.
While you had it down, did you happen to notice if it had the new oil pump drive O-ring? I am going OBD 1.5, so I need to replace (or remove and bore) the cam carrier anyway, might as well pull the head and replace the O-ring also if it is the old style.
Engine is back in the car. I need to figure out where I am going to mount the new water/air intercooler and pipe it. Hopefully be driving it in the next week.
Engine going back together.
Finally in the car. I bought a weld in oil fill bung and cap from Jegs. It worked out well. Sent the covers for powder coating after welding in the new oil fill.
Matt, That is some impressive work there. Why did you choose the motor over say the 3800 SC motor? I would have jumped on a crate motor for $300,00 if I thought I could find one. I agree those headers look very nice. What size piping did you use and are the ports round on those heads? It looks like a custom built intake too. Man that is some serious power you are making there. Would love to see a car like that up close and personal. I HAD a 3800SC here but was forced to sell it when I got sick. Feeling better now and I am starting to get the dream of a turbo motor again.... NICE work man.. peace
I chose the 3.4 years ago. I believe it was in 1999 when I bought the first one. It has been a blessing/curse since then. If I were to do it again, I would probably use the 3.8 SC with a turbo. That is hard to beat.
have you done a dyno run yet or been to the drag strip
Yeah, how about an update?
------------------ Ron "While you cannot control the length of your life, you can control the width and depth." Live life to it's fullest, you may not see tomorrow.
Hey, just saw this. I have had the car up and running since Power Tour, but with the new power, I am slipping the clutch. I am just going to wait until winter to change it out, so numbers will have to wait for next year I am hoping for close to 500 whp with the GT35R.
