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More questions on the 4.9 swap...Lets see those pics :) by Xerces_Blackthorne
Started on: 05-01-2009 11:02 AM
Replies: 57
Last post by: Fieroseverywhere on 05-27-2010 10:25 AM
Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-01-2009 11:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
Ok, so I want to get everything ready and see what I need and can't pick up to do this swap. I want a torque monster that still gets about 20-25 MPG highway by the time I am done, and I want a reliable V8. So the 4.9 seems to be the way to go.

First question: Does anyone have a comprehensive (I.E., detailed) list of everything I need for the swap? I do intend on buying the whole drivetrain (trans, axles, engine, ecu) from the donor car. What is the best year and donor to pull it from? I.E., the most reliable?

Second question: I intend on rebuilding the motor that I get from bottom up (new seals, etc). Should I get the block bored over? Are there larger internals even available for the 4.9? I'd like to go .030 over with it.

And finally, could someone post some pics of this swap so I know what I'm getting into

Thanks,

-Brian

[This message has been edited by Xerces_Blackthorne (edited 05-01-2009).]

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Report this Post05-01-2009 02:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:

Second question: I intend on rebuilding the motor that I get from bottom up (new seals, etc). Should I get the block bored over? Are there larger internals even available for the 4.9? I'd like to go .030 over with it.

Thanks,

-Brian



In my humble opinion this is a mistake. The 4.9 is not a 305 SBC with huge aftermarket and experience has shown mods don't have much affect on it anyway. Rebuilding it will cost you a lot of money with very little gain.

What you want to do is get the best running motor you can find and bolt it in. That's the appeal of the 4.9. If you want to build up a motor with all new internals then the 4.9 is not your best choice for an engine.
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Report this Post05-01-2009 02:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
I read that there was a TSB on the oil pump, and the problem was corrected by the 93 model year.
I also agree with jscott1. Get you a good one and go from there.
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Report this Post05-01-2009 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:


Rebuilding it will cost you a lot of money with very little gain.

What you want to do is get the best running motor you can find and bolt it in. That's the appeal of the 4.9. If you want to build up a motor with all new internals then the 4.9 is not your best choice for an engine.


Yep, exactly. This is what I did. I found a low mile 94 Deville that took a rear hit. The car even had the service records in the glovebox. Grab the entire drivetrain if you're going auto, the wiring harness, and the PCM. Have the guy at the boneyard light off the engine so you can hear it run before they pull it. If there is no smoke or unusual noises, and the miles are under 100K, it will probably give you another 75K of fun stoplight to stoplight tire roasting fun.

Do you want an auto or a standard car? If going auto, the 4T60E that comes with the Cadillac is a fantastic transmission, and an overdrive is very nice, 1900 RPM @ 70 MPH. This is where your highway MPG comes from is this gearing.

I don't have a list of parts, but this should get you started. You will have to buy or make your motor mounts...West Coast Fiero sells them. They also sell the transmission mounts. Any exhaust shop can fab your exhaust. Likewise, any tubing shop can fab your fuel lines. Your throttle cable should be a 4 cyl original Fiero cable. Your axles will be 1993 Pontiac Transport minivan axles, with Fiero MANUAL transmission outer ends. They two halves snap right together, and fit like they were meant to be there. You will need 4 cyl Fiero radiator hoses and some hose adaptors, all available at your local AutoZone. The radiator issue is open to debate....I live in a very hot climate, and am using the original 4 cyl radiator with no issues...others have had overheating issues and had to change it. As for wiring, you wilI either need to wire your own or purchase the plug n play harness from Injection Technology. know I'm forgetting a million things, but have done two of these swaps and will be glad to help whenever you need....just PM me.

No swap is a "bolt in" per se, but the 4.9 isn't terribly challenging. There is probably a comprehensive list of parts somewhere on the forum, but if not, you can build one by the time this thread is finished

If it all comes together, here is what a basic 4.9 swap will look like. Others have done much fancier stuff, but here's my low budget hot rod.




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DanFiero
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Report this Post05-01-2009 02:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanFieroSend a Private Message to DanFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:


First question: Does anyone have a comprehensive (I.E., detailed) list of everything I need for the swap? I do intend on buying the whole drivetrain (trans, axles, engine, ecu) from the donor car. What is the best year and donor to pull it from? I.E., the most reliable?

And finally, could someone post some pics of this swap so I know what I'm getting into

Thanks,

-Brian



Brian,

I emailed you a list of parts that were used in my 4.9 swap, most parts came from Car Quest so you may have to cross reference parts number somehow to use different suppliers. I'm also emailing you a link to my caddy build photobucket so feel free to take a look at my build pictures there.

Good luck, It's worth it!!!!

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanFiero (edited 05-01-2009).]

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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-01-2009 05:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
Dan,

Got your email Thanks!

I'm going auto on this one. Its going in an 88 coupe, so it looks like I have a bunch of stuff already that I can reuse My question now though is on the auto trans..

I know the 4T60 is a favorite swap around the forum here to replace the TH125. But with the 4.9, would I be able to use a 4T65E-HD or similar? Any benefits to the 4T65 over the 4T60 auto if it can be done? Basically I want a tire roasting highway cruiser that'll shut the ricers (pontiackid and his 600 horsepower body kit honda ) around here up
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Report this Post05-01-2009 05:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gunslingerSend a Private Message to gunslingerDirect Link to This Post
The 4T65 will not work as the torque converter will not bolt up to the flexplate of the 4.9.
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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-01-2009 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gunslinger:

The 4T65 will not work as the torque converter will not bolt up to the flexplate of the 4.9.


So stick with the 4T60E then? Or should I look into the HD version? Keep in mind that I do intend on roasting the tires on this at every chance I get hehe

If I don't get the trans with the motor, what kind of gearing should I be looking at for the 4T60E with the 4.9?
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Report this Post05-01-2009 07:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.PBodyClick Here to visit Mr.PBody's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mr.PBodyDirect Link to This Post
4T60HD is not a good transmission, they only made it for a year or two for a reason. The 4T60E will be fine, you won't break it, the 4.9 won't make the power to break it, even with mods you'll be fine. If your going super duper turbos and whatnot maybe look into the 65E, but its not worth the time. 4T65E-HD is leaps and bounds better, but as said, its not going to work, and totally unnecessary.

A friend is doing a 4.9L swap, he bought a whole 60k mile donor car for under $1k and bought all the stuff to bolt it in from Ed Parks for like $2k, maybe less. Do that, $3k and you can have a bolt in swap. Have a 200 crank hp motor with a lot of torque. Will kick the pants off your duke.
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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-01-2009 07:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
That was another thing I thought about, just buying the whole damn car. Be cheaper in the long run IMO

One major thing I like about this swap is IIRC it will allow me to stay OBD I, thus freeing me from the pesky emissions inspection crap that comes along with OBD II around here. All I need to worry about is a visual inspection, and for that they just make sure my exhaust is hole free, my evap and EGR are in place and working, and a gas cap test. No tail pipe test with OBD I around here
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Report this Post05-01-2009 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.PBodyClick Here to visit Mr.PBody's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mr.PBodyDirect Link to This Post
Don't tell them its OBD2? Don't let that limit your options. Most of the techs aren't bright enough and will figure an 80s car is OBD0.
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Report this Post05-01-2009 07:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
True...

Another question that I just remembered: Is it possible to keep the AC with this swap? I can't stand the heat around here in the summer because of the humidity, and I can't go without AC in the summer...I'd prefer to keep an R12 system, but I can deal with R134 (R12 seems to blow colder and last longer to me, but I'm a walking heater hehe)
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Report this Post05-01-2009 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
You can have a/c no problem
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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-01-2009 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
Sounds good to me, thanks JScott
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Report this Post05-01-2009 09:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for El GuapoSend a Private Message to El GuapoDirect Link to This Post
If you get this swap off the ground let me know. I have alot more free time now and would be willing to lend a hand. I have been considering a swap too, because my 2.8 has become fairly unreliable, but I'm not sure what I want to get into yet. I have a friend who is into Fieros and engine swaps, but doesn't own a Fiero. He does have a pretty good knowledge of auto mechanics, though. He might be willing to lend a hand as well, if needed, of course.
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Report this Post05-02-2009 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BustedRideSend a Private Message to BustedRideDirect Link to This Post
Kinda wanting to re-word Jscotts first post.

Rebuilding the 4.9 for aftermarket is fairly pointless as you won't see many gains. But there is NOTHING wrong with rebuilding your motor. A rebuilt motor is just that, rebuilt. Still better than the 85k mile engine that your sticking in there without knowing exactly how it was treated and if someone ran that sludge they call pennzoil through it.

GL with the swap!
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Report this Post05-02-2009 02:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BustedRide:


But there is NOTHING wrong with rebuilding your motor. A rebuilt motor is just that, rebuilt. Still better than the 85k mile engine that your sticking in there without knowing exactly how it was treated and if someone ran that sludge they call pennzoil through it.

GL with the swap!


If I can re-word my own post...

A rebuilt motor is better than a n untouched junk yard motor. No doubt about that.

My point is that unlike an SBC where you can get oversized pistons and rings quite easily, a rebuild on a 4.9 is going to be a major expense. I've never done it, so I'm speaking 2nd hand and I could be completely wrong, but it's my understanding that you could buy several junk yard motors for what the rebuild will cost you. And it's not a simple rebuild if you have never done it.

The 4.9 is popular because typically it doesn't need rebuilding. The DeVilles are generally driven by elderly people and are not hot rodded. A low miles Caddy wrecked in the back typically has a pristine motor in it. And you can't walk 10 feet in the yard without tripping over a Deville.
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Report this Post05-02-2009 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.PBodyClick Here to visit Mr.PBody's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mr.PBodyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:

The 4.9 is popular because typically it doesn't need rebuilding. The DeVilles are generally driven by elderly people and are not hot rodded. A low miles Caddy wrecked in the back typically has a pristine motor in it. And you can't walk 10 feet in the yard without tripping over a Deville.


Agreed, that's why I got my 3.8 out a regal not a grand prix. Old People also don't ask questions at the service drive, so my car was full of newer delco parts, NGK iridiums, etc. Don't think he/she was big on changing transmission fluid, but I'll deal with that later.

Rebuilt motor, ALWAYS better, but is it worth the extra expense? Drop <$1000 on a full donor car, call it a day. Just a rebuilt longblock will run you over $1,000 and you'll still need a donor car for wiring, trans, and everything that bolts to the motor.
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Report this Post05-02-2009 10:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BustedRide:

Kinda wanting to re-word Jscotts first post.

Rebuilding the 4.9 for aftermarket is fairly pointless as you won't see many gains. But there is NOTHING wrong with rebuilding your motor. A rebuilt motor is just that, rebuilt. Still better than the 85k mile engine that your sticking in there without knowing exactly how it was treated and if someone ran that sludge they call pennzoil through it.

GL with the swap!


Yes, there is A LOT wrong with rebuilding the Caddy 4.9.

You spend way more money rebuilding it than it is worth - an 85k motor still has way lots of life left it in for installing it into a Fiero. I have seen some Caddies around be with well over the 250k on thier 4.9 and the reason they were in the yard was from an accident - now I wouldn't go and install one of these, but anything around the 100k mile mark should more than good. This is coming from someone who has rebuilt a motor (and used the little performance parts available) - the only thing I gained was less money in the bank. If I knew what I know now - I wouldn't touch the motor, just replace the water pump and any leaking seals and toss it in.

But that is just me...

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 05-02-2009).]

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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-02-2009 04:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
Guapo, I'll have to take you up on that offer

Think I found my engine. Big yard up north where backonholiday, pontiackid, and I had our excursion last october has engines for $175 pulled and tested. All I have to do is show up with a truck and cash and its mine. Gonna keep looking around though for a complete car for next to nothing and see if I can't get that though so I can get the harness, PCM, trans, engine, etc all together.

I also pondered the idea of having Ed Parks do my swap for me, but looking at price, its kinda outta the question...
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Report this Post05-02-2009 04:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pontiackid86Send a Private Message to pontiackid86Direct Link to This Post
i like where my tax dollars are going
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Report this Post05-02-2009 05:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pontiackid86:

i like where my tax dollars are going


Yea, me too

One more question I have for you 4.9ers: What was the best year for this motor? I.E., what year should I be looking for? I would imagine something from 93, seeing as that was the last year most caddys used this before they got the N*?
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Report this Post05-02-2009 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
No the 4.9's were used by Cadillac till some time in the 1995 model year.
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Report this Post05-02-2009 09:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post
I would try to find a 92 or 93 motor, for the simple reason that the 94 uses a different PCM and two O2 sensors. The transmission wiring is different on the 94 (don't ask). I used a 94 motor because it was low mile and well cared for, but had I been able to find a comparable 92 or 93, I would have preferred it just for simplicity's sake. If you buy a VATS bypass, the 91-93 PCM uses a 30 hz resistor, the 94 uses a 50 hz.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 05-02-2009).]

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Report this Post05-02-2009 09:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for m0sh_manSend a Private Message to m0sh_manDirect Link to This Post
do you already have a donor?

ive got a 1995 caddy 4.9L auto, complete car, minor wreck damage on the passenger side doors.

runs/drives complete car, no radio and tires are bald, but you could part out what you dont use.

$500 for the complete car, 160k miles.

matthew
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Report this Post05-02-2009 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Frizlefrak:

If you buy a VATS bypass, the 91-93 PCM uses a 30 hz resistor, the 94 uses a 50 hz.



You lost me on this...what is a 30 hz resistor? Do you mean 30 ohm resistor?
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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post05-02-2009 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by m0sh_man:

do you already have a donor?

ive got a 1995 caddy 4.9L auto, complete car, minor wreck damage on the passenger side doors.

runs/drives complete car, no radio and tires are bald, but you could part out what you dont use.

$500 for the complete car, 160k miles.

matthew


No donor yet, but yours is tempting I'd like to find something lower mileage though preferably...at that price, I can't argue I'll keep it in mind of course. Has a title I assume?

I figure if I get a donor car for dirt cheap, I can pull what I need and take the leftover carcass to the scrap yard for about $200 or so, if I'm lucky. Otherwise I'll scrap it for the steel and get as much as possible.

So my next question would be: Which would be easier to do, a 92-93 4.9 swap, or a 94-95 swap? I plan on getting a wiring harness made by someone, most likely Ed Parks at the Fiero Factory if he does them. Looking to make this as easy as possible, more or less a drop and swap type of thing. Any suggestions? Does anyone know if Painless makes a wiring harness for the Fiero to allow this swap? May even look into that route if its available...

EDIT: Something I found while searching for info on the 4.9. May be useful in the future for other 4.9 swappers HERE ya go

[This message has been edited by Xerces_Blackthorne (edited 05-02-2009).]

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Report this Post05-02-2009 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:


You lost me on this...what is a 30 hz resistor? Do you mean 30 ohm resistor?


I think it is supposed to be a 30 or 50 mz signal isn't it?
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Report this Post05-03-2009 02:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:


You lost me on this...what is a 30 hz resistor? Do you mean 30 ohm resistor?


I think "resistor" was the wrong word.....VATS signal generator is what Injection Technology calls the part to override the VATS (Passkey) in the PCM. The 1991 - 1993 PCM's need a 30 hz signal, the 1994-1995 need a 50 hz signal.

Sorry for the mixup.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 05-03-2009).]

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Frizlefrak
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Report this Post05-03-2009 02:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post

Frizlefrak

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Member since Aug 2003
 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:
Looking to make this as easy as possible, more or less a drop and swap type of thing. Any suggestions? Does anyone know if Painless makes a wiring harness for the Fiero to allow this swap? May even look into that route if its available...




These guys will build you the harness. This is the one I used. About $700. You can, of course, build your own. Comes down to which you have less of ......time, or money.

http://www.injectiontechnology.com/

Be sure to specify which PCM you are using....91-93 or 94-95. This will ensure you get the correct VATS bypass. If you use the 1994 and up 4T60E, you will have to rewire the transmission plug (I believe the 7 cavity) on the Injection Technology harness....I found this out the hard way when my engine ran fine, but my transmission wouldn't shift. Thanks to a couple of helpful folks here, it took me 5 minutes to fix (after 2 weeks of fruitless troubleshooting). If I had just asked here first, it would have saved me a ton of time.

You're gonna love this swap when it's done.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 05-03-2009).]

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Report this Post05-03-2009 09:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:

Ok, so I want to get everything ready and see what I need and can't pick up to do this swap. I want a torque monster that still gets about 20-25 MPG highway by the time I am done, and I want a reliable V8. So the 4.9 seems to be the way to go.

First question: Does anyone have a comprehensive (I.E., detailed) list of everything I need for the swap? I do intend on buying the whole drivetrain (trans, axles, engine, ecu) from the donor car. What is the best year and donor to pull it from? I.E., the most reliable?

Second question: I intend on rebuilding the motor that I get from bottom up (new seals, etc). Should I get the block bored over? Are there larger internals even available for the 4.9? I'd like to go .030 over with it.


See my wiring threads for all you need.

There is a thread on 4.9 boring to use the Northstar pistons - but doing a rebuild/etc is not cheap (I spent about $500 just on the complete gasket set for the motor - never mind the other parts).


 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:
So stick with the 4T60E then? Or should I look into the HD version? Keep in mind that I do intend on roasting the tires on this at every chance I get hehe


Nothing wrong with using the stock transaxle - if using an automatic, stick with the stock one. Why waste time trying to figure out how to make a different auto work with it?


:sigh:

It does not matter what year your buy (91-95) - there is no real difference (with the exception of the wiring and exhaust manifolds and to my knowledge, the 94-95 ECM can not be programmed using the same method. Rockcrawl couldn't program the 94 that I did a few years back - but, IIRC I was still able to use the 94 ECM, but had to use a 91-93 chip in it (that was over 6 years ago) - VATS doesn't matter if you are getting it reprogrammed - just remove it). Just buy a low milage one...

WHAT MATTERS is how you wire them up - each model and some years HAVE different wiring. THIS ALL DEPENDS on what you are doing with the programming of the chip. ALL MEMCAL PROGRAMMING use Rockcrawls base 91 Deville code, so you HAVE to wire them as a 91 Deville. Sticky Pony also has a 92 Seville base code chip that is used (2 O2 sensors) as well (hence you wire it as a 92 Seville).
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post05-03-2009 09:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
As someone who is looking towards doing a 4.9L swap this summer, I would advise to do a good amount of research before mixing model years and PCMs. What we often find is that one year of engine doesn't always use the same sensors, alternator connectors, and other hardware so just your homework before you get into it. I know of a guy who tried to rebuild a 4.9L and it ended up in the scrap heap. He just put an impact wrench on the head bolts to remove them and stripped the threads out of the aluminum block but even if you do rebuild successsfully, you'll end up with a very expensive swap. I would use a sound engine as is with an improved ignition ( MSD) , full flow exhaust, and enjoy the strong low end launch and the great gas mileage. If you are going good, you might be able to do this swap for under $2000 w the auto and less for the stick. Expect to do some belt re-routing, add a new tensioner, and be prepared to build some brackets to relocate the alternator. According to Ed Parks; axles from an Olds Sillouette with the 3800 should drop right in to an auto swap.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
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Report this Post05-03-2009 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

. According to Ed Parks; axles from an Olds Sillouette with the 3800 should drop right in to an auto swap.



Silhouette or Transport work perfectly. But you have to change the outer ends to Fiero manual trans ends. Speaking from experience. Here's how it looks.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 05-03-2009).]

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Report this Post05-04-2009 02:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
and be prepared to build some brackets to relocate the alternator.


Why???


 
quote
Originally posted by Frizlefrak:
Silhouette or Transport work perfectly. But you have to change the outer ends to Fiero manual trans ends. Speaking from experience. Here's how it looks.





Wow, how big is that idler pully you have by the water pump (what is it off of) and what size of belt is the setup using? I would like to see more info on the mounting/etc that you have done for this pulley. Kind of interested if it will fit in the car - the hinge might be in the way (I am sure they are in the same spot on the 88s).

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 05-04-2009).]

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Report this Post05-04-2009 02:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
I'm going to start collecting up everything small now and then get the engine/trans/pcm, etc last.

Another question though: What year Transport or Silhouette should I pull the axles off of?
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Report this Post05-04-2009 04:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne:

I'm going to start collecting up everything small now and then get the engine/trans/pcm, etc last.

Another question though: What year Transport or Silhouette should I pull the axles off of?


...for some reason all the answers to your questions seem to be located here: //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098096.html

If you scroll down, the year has been meantioned in sanderson's post near the end of the 1st page...
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Report this Post05-04-2009 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


Wow, how big is that idler pully you have by the water pump (what is it off of) and what size of belt is the setup using? I would like to see more info on the mounting/etc that you have done for this pulley. Kind of interested if it will fit in the car - the hinge might be in the way (I am sure they are in the same spot on the 88s).



Mickey...that pulley came with the kit that Ed Parks used to sell to the DIY'ers. And yes, it fit in the car just fine and doesn't grind any holes in the firewall or hinges This was the first swap we did. The car belongs to Jeff88.....I can ask him what size the belt was.

On the second swap, I used a pulley from (I believe) a 2001 Dodge Dakota 5.9 engine....I'll have to dig through the file, but it was the smallest 6 groove pulley the parts store had. I then used the V6 Camaro tensioner.
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Report this Post05-04-2009 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrizlefrakSend a Private Message to FrizlefrakDirect Link to This Post

Frizlefrak

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quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

, and be prepared to build some brackets to relocate the alternator.


Dennis....we left the alternator in the original spot on both of our swaps with no clearance issues. See the photo of my swap in my 88 in the post above.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 05-04-2009).]

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Report this Post05-04-2009 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DIY_StuClick Here to visit DIY_Stu's HomePageSend a Private Message to DIY_StuDirect Link to This Post
Remember if you do your own wiring when you get it all apart. DON'T FREAK OUT. Take it one wire at a time. Serious. This sounds like a simple concept but when you have spaghetti in front of you you'll know. My first 4.9 wiring job was done IN CAR. I actually found this to be easier than the 3800 harness I did on a table. Route the wiring so it's CLEAN this will do wonders for trouble shooting and just look good. ONE WIRE AT A TIME. I cannot say it enough. take it slow and know what every wire does. Most just go back to the ECM there's some gauge wires, power wires and grounds that will go that direction too. There's also a couple wires that will also go to the C500 on the side wall. If you're looking around in yards for an engine to pull then look for BODY DAMAGE. Without body damage then there's mostly engine or trans problems that exceeded value. Check odometers, learn how to power them up and also look for the oil change tag on the windshield. All of these will tell you how well the car was taken care of and it's lifespan. 4.9 You'll like it. It's not a race engine but it's a perky v8 for sure. It's on the engines I like list.
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Report this Post05-05-2009 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Frizlefrak:


Mickey...that pulley came with the kit that Ed Parks used to sell to the DIY'ers. And yes, it fit in the car just fine and doesn't grind any holes in the firewall or hinges This was the first swap we did. The car belongs to Jeff88.....I can ask him what size the belt was.

On the second swap, I used a pulley from (I believe) a 2001 Dodge Dakota 5.9 engine....I'll have to dig through the file, but it was the smallest 6 groove pulley the parts store had. I then used the V6 Camaro tensioner.


I would be interested in knowing the pulley size on Jeff88's car - that bigger pulley has got me thinking about a mod.
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