So there's no chance of the nut the strikers bolt into falling into the cavity behind the door ?
Reason I ask is that the driver door captive nut seemed to be tight when I replaced the striker, but the passenger side seems to move around a lot when I loosen the striker.
I just don't want to have to go on a fishing expedition if the nut falls out on the passenger side.
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03:25 PM
jaskispyder Member
Posts: 21510 From: Northern MI Registered: Jun 2002
I ended up not replacing my strikers...rather I removed them and put heat-shrink tubing over them (two layers)...reinstalled and the rattling over bumps is gone.
A cheap easy fix...now we'll see how durable it turns out to be.
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03:14 AM
mafv8 Member
Posts: 554 From: Northville, Michigan, USA Registered: Aug 2001
My striker's have no plastic on them, so from what I understand there should be a plastic sleeve on there, this would explain why my doors 'clonk' when hitting bumps in the road. Where can I get new striker's from ? does anyone have a part number ?
------------------ 84SE, aero body, 5 speed and a 350 V8
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07:11 PM
GTDude Member
Posts: 9056 From: Keysville, Virginia, USA Registered: Nov 2001
There should be no plastic around the striker from the factory. It should all be metal. Some of them have "repaired" by using a plastic tube or tape. This usually wears out in a few months. The best thing to do is to replace the stiker itself with a new one. This is a simple operation. Screw one out and a new one in. Unless you have the type that is adjustable, which the Fiero doesn't have. On the adjustable kind, just use a marker and draw around it so that you get the striker in the same place.
Phil
------------------ 87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd 0-60 in 6.8 seconds! If you found my advice helpful, please take the time to give me a positive rating. Thanks
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07:30 PM
Oct 22nd, 2003
deceler8 Member
Posts: 2139 From: Sioux City, Iowa USA Registered: Sep 1999
All I can say is the heat shrink over the strikers really improved the sound of the door closing and it doesn't rattle going over bumps.
I was screwing around and found that the outer sheath from 14-2 NM electrical cable fits over the striker as well. If the heat shrink doesn't hold up, I'm going with that next.
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02:16 AM
DavidStremer Member
Posts: 372 From: Stevens Point, Wi, USA Registered: Apr 2003
I have examined the striker bolts on my Fiero and they don't seem to do much. They cannot be adjusted. They remain in one place. The only thing I noticed about them is wear caused by the sagging of one of my doors. I needed to replace the hinge pins to repair the sagging door problem. This stopped any movemnt from the door, and any rattling caused by the latch hitting the striker bolt due to movement of the door. As far as the wear on the striker bolt, I took a file and filed the rough edges off the bolt until it was smooth again. Bolts are cheap and easy to replace, but buying new striker bolts seems like a waste of money to me.
One thing you can do with the strikers is adjust them in/out to find a less worn section.
That may have helped me as much as covering the strikers with heat shrink.
when you loosen them, it should have some slight up/down and in/out movement. You can shim it in or out by adding/removing washers. Test after adjusting by closing door SLOWLY the first time. Dont just slam it.If it out of line, you can damage it or the door latch.
Does anyone know a part number for these striker bolts? I would like to get them over the counter (GM dealer...AutoZone...etc.) if possible.
Steve
think you can get them from the fierostore
On second thought, was just there looking for them and had no luck...doh!
[This message has been edited by ditch (edited 11-23-2003).][/QUOTE]
The Fiero Store does have them, but I was looking to buy them over the counter. I was hoping to do it this weekend. Doesn't look like it's going to happen, so Fiero Store it is.
Thanks anyway, Steve
------------------ 1988 Formula 3.4L 1/4 mile ET: 15.514 86.27 MPH
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09:25 AM
deceler8 Member
Posts: 2139 From: Sioux City, Iowa USA Registered: Sep 1999