Removing a V-6 Engine - By The Numbers (Page 4/22)
kyote JAN 03, 07:51 AM

quote
Originally posted by skitime:


You could use the method in the factory manual. No danger of damage and you don't need a engine hoist. It also lifts the nose so even with my chin spoiler it is not even close to the ground.

I want to say that this is an excellent post and do not want to detract from it but let me add the way the factory manual shows. They lift the car from just behind the middle of the car. They have even created clearances for the lifting 4x4 under the car and can be seen under the rocker panels. To move the engine around when it is on the floor, I just use a skid cut to the size of the cradle. I mount a inexpensive set of refrigerator rollers to the skid. On smooth concrete you can easily slide the assembly in any direction with the engine on it. It sure works great. I only need one floor jack and two jack stands to remove an engine. Just put the jack under a 4x4 under the middle. Lower the cradle onto the skid. Unbolt cradle. Raise car up until the engine and cradle clear. Use jack stands under the 4x4 if you ever get under the car. I never even had help to do it. Always did it by myself. I roll it out the side usually so I don’t have to have the car up very high. My garage ceiling is only 7' high. You really don't have to have the car very high. No need to raise the front of the car even with the spoiler I have on the front. Reinstall in the opposite order.

Note this picture shows the rocker panel removed but that was for a different reason not because I was removing the engine.

Notice how much lower my car is to remove the engine than the photos using the engine hoist. Also notice how the hoist pushes the nose down hard which is why some people have to block the front wheels up wich adds to the danger of the car falling off the front blocks.






You need to use the hoist if you want to keep your struts intact... no need to do a realignment.. the extra height is needed to uncompress the struts to clear the body...
Your picture is minus the struts.....is why yours isn't as high... I have done both ways.. the hoist is alot faster....and easier...

------------------

'86 Fastback SE 5 spd -'94 HD Electra Glide Cassic -'99 Chevy K-1500 Z-71

maddoggie JAN 03, 08:55 AM
Great resource, excellent write-up and pics.
Saxman JAN 03, 09:10 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fierofreak00:

This may be asking alot but, maybe you should add where to cut the frame when the rear cradle bolts spin instead of coming out( I've got that part down pat). Not all of us live in sunny (rust free) California .
Good job! -Jason




If you need a photo of this, I have one posted at http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/082616.html

You can see the original small hole where I cut mine. That small hole was to hold down the wheel liner.
tjm4fun JAN 03, 10:56 AM
You don;t need to use a hoist to keep the struts on.





as an option, for those that may have the materials to make something like this, a simple fram works very well to lift the car, tho I did mine originally with a simple floor jack:


As for the 88 struts binding, remove the sway bar bolts, and the struts will flop out. that is what holds them in to that steep angle. you can see that on the right strut in the pic. the assembly came out the wheel well, not the back, I just rolled it there. the dolly is a standard furniture dolly turned on a slight angle to hit all the cradle sides. works on pre 88;s too.

Just as a note, I know it has been done many times, but don't count on that trunk latch. Bolt strengths do not add in lifitng, the lowest rated part is the maximum strength you can lift safely. I ma very paranoid on lifting things just for personal safety issues.
(We rig and lift boats with a crane, and every piece on that frame exceeds the weight of the heaviest boat in it;s rating, even tho there are 4 points or attachment, any one failing would be disasterous)
Rodrv6 JAN 03, 11:39 AM
GREAT THREAD!!
Thank you, Todd, for doing the writeup with the good pictures!
I'll add my twist on engine removal. I use Skitimes method with the 4x4 and a floor jack to lift the car. My cradle dolly is a welded up frame made from 2 inch angle iron with casters on the corners. I take the calipers off and hang them in the wheel well, then I remove the entire strut assembly (which is a bit more of a pain on my 88 than it was on my 84) as a unit and lay them aside. That leaves one less thing to get in the way and so far it hasn't disturbed the alignment when it goes back together.

****This thread would be a good one to "sticky" so it never gets lost! Cliff?????

------------------
Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
1966 Porsche 911
Van's RV-6 airplane-under construction

[This message has been edited by Rodrv6 (edited 01-03-2008).]

skitime JAN 03, 06:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by kyote:


You need to use the hoist if you want to keep your struts intact... no need to do a realignment.. the extra height is needed to uncompress the struts to clear the body...
Your picture is minus the struts.....is why yours isn't as high... I have done both ways.. the hoist is alot faster....and easier...





So not true! Please don't mislead people with that misinformation. Only talk about things you know. I use this same method with the struts on. In the earlier post I was swapping complete cradles and converting to a manual trans so I did not want the struts on those axles. That is why the struts were removed. THEY WERE NOT REMOVED SO I COULD REMOVE THE ENGINE.



This picture was the first time I ever dropped a Fiero engine to fix leaking front manifold. No need to remove the struts or hoist the car higher.

[This message has been edited by skitime (edited 01-03-2008).]

p8ntman442 JAN 03, 07:38 PM
Leaving the calipers attached saves having to bleed the brakes. Just hang them from the strut tower with bungee cords. Big time saver if your not doing new pads and rotors and dont need to compress the calipers much. Deffinatly worth flushing the brake lines and bleeding if you havent done it yet.
buds JAN 03, 08:34 PM
I myself would never trust the trunk latch.... Safe way is to use a 3' Pc. of chain with a hook on each end....Use to lower the motor unto your cart then hook the hooks into the holes under your frame and lift the car...I really think that is what these holes are intended for.
buddycraigg JAN 03, 11:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by buds:
I myself would never trust the trunk latch.... Safe way is to use a 3' Pc. of chain with a hook on each end....Use to lower the motor unto your cart then hook the hooks into the holes under your frame and lift the car...I really think that is what these holes are intended for.



that's a neat idea, but i've never seen those holes on any car.
and they look like they were made with a holesaw.
i'm going to guess they were added.
but it's still a really cool lifting point.

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 01-04-2008).]

TK JAN 03, 11:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by Toddster:
Out the Top?

Heathen.




I turned mine upside and used a butter knife in the engine bay until it dropped out.