Removing a V-6 Engine - By The Numbers (Page 12/22)
fyrebird68 JAN 28, 02:10 PM
I am on my second go-round in pullling the engine. Toddster's write-up is excellent, but having done it before I didn't need the detailed instructions. All I wanted was a checklist to make sure I didn't miss a step.

I made these:




I have them as PDF files, so if you'd like one let me know (use PM) and I can email it to you.
If you see something I need to fix let me know.

edit: I fixed a couple of mistakes and added a step - things that I discovered while using the list.
edit: 2/1/10 I added one more step and named it revc.
edit: 6/15/10 rev d.

[This message has been edited by fyrebird68 (edited 06-15-2010).]

katore8105 FEB 01, 01:58 AM
Since this was the only guide here, I used it for my 4 Duke drop today. Mostly the same to be honest and with a little common sense, It went well. I got it done in around 4 hours with some screwing around. I found the E-brake cable part particularly helpful. Good thread!
Toddster FEB 01, 01:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by fyrebird68:

I am on my second go-round in pullling the engine. Toddster's write-up is excellent, but having done it before I didn't need the detailed instructions. All I wanted was a checklist to make sure I didn't miss a step.

I made these:




I have them as PDF files, so if you'd like one let me know and I can email it to you.
If you see something I need to fix let me know.

edit: I fixed a couple of mistakes and added a step - things that I discovered while using the list.
edit: 2/1/10 I added one more step and named it revc.




well done! This is handy for those of us with some experience
masospaghetti FEB 01, 01:25 PM
When removing the A/C compressor, I thought it was impossible (or near impossible) to get to those two compressor-to-bracket bolts? I thought the whole compressor/bracket assembly was removed at the same time?

I say "near impossible" because I had to loosen one of them to pivot my compressor, to loosen the belt - but it was a huge PITA to get to.
fyrebird68 FEB 01, 02:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by masospaghetti:

When removing the A/C compressor, I thought it was impossible (or near impossible) to get to those two compressor-to-bracket bolts? I thought the whole compressor/bracket assembly was removed at the same time?

I say "near impossible" because I had to loosen one of them to pivot my compressor, to loosen the belt - but it was a huge PITA to get to.



My AC was not charged, so I didn't remove the AC compressor. I just unhooked the two hoses under the air filter. If you want to maintain the integrity of the AC system, you have to tough it out.
longjonsilver FEB 06, 12:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by Toddster:
I did this in just over 2 hours but if I was a newbie or just taking my sweet time I still wouldn't take more than 4 hours to do it.



im following this thread right now, and this is my second time doing this. however, i have already spent 7 hours and am not done yet, altho im almost ready to lift up the car, perhaps another 2 hours and i will be done, lots of work to change a clutch! your time will vary, of course, but optimistic estimates shouldnt be relied upon for those who are inexperienced. this is not due to rust on my car, because i have no rust, and no stuck bolts, but one stuck hose

jon
Toddster MAR 21, 11:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by longjonsilver:


im following this thread right now, and this is my second time doing this. however, i have already spent 7 hours and am not done yet, altho im almost ready to lift up the car, perhaps another 2 hours and i will be done, lots of work to change a clutch! your time will vary, of course, but optimistic estimates shouldnt be relied upon for those who are inexperienced. this is not due to rust on my car, because i have no rust, and no stuck bolts, but one stuck hose

jon



Times will always vary with experience. But as an example, today I removed a V-6, replaced the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, remated the engine to the tranny and put it back in and drove the car in less than 8 hours. Mind you, I've done this about....oh, a billion times. But the point is that with practice, removing an engine is a job you can do before lunch.
tjm4fun MAR 22, 11:46 AM
On the A/C part, now that I read the posted pdf, there are a couple of routes you can go if you have a charged system and want to keep it that way.
I would suggest this for keeping the a/c intact:
Drop the exhaust and remove the assembly from the car. 2 bolts with spring tensioners at Y pipe, requires a 2' extension for the socket to make it easy. soak the bolts with pb blaster from the top first. then the hangers at the frame rails rear,
With the exhaust out of there, there is plenty of room to get at all the compressor bolts. remove the clutch connector and the 1 or 2 pressure switch (depends on compressor type) plugs on the rear, then remove the bolts and tuck the compressor up to the firewall. the heat sheild brackets on the firewall are very handy for tying the compressor off and out of the way.


Also as a personal pref, if dropping the cradle I always drop the exhaust system and put it out of the way. it may be unneeded, but it's only 4 bolts, and allows much more access to the start wiring and a/c compressor.
scrambler00 MAY 13, 10:37 PM
hey could yall send me an word version scrambler_madness@hotmail.com , thank you so much for everyone for chipping in on this EPIC writeup. Does anyone have any helpful hints on getting it back in.
My 3.8 Fiero is has a BAD BAD rod knock. Will be throwing in the spare motor soon. Stupid Riveria motor.....im stuck with putting in another 3.8L from an 86 Riveria lol wish me luck

------------------
1986 Fiero SE

jeff7 MAY 14, 09:50 PM
Great write up, Ill take a word or pdf file, either is fine. mntndew7ataol.com

thanks