Distributor replacement with pictures and tips for a V-6 (Page 12/12)
css9450 OCT 18, 10:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by jetman:

... then start the car and adjust the distributor base timing which is 10* before top dead center. It's as simple as that.




And be sure to tighten down that bolt that holds the distributor holddown clamp - don't do like I did and restart the engine a couple of times with it loose! The motion of cranking the engine and the turning of the cam against the distributor gear was enough to bump it back out of time, by quite a bit. Funny to look back and laugh, but I was really puzzled there for awhile why the car ran so awful when I'd just timed it! LOL
Moar NOV 13, 06:24 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:

Excellent write up!

One thing I never liked about the Fiero's distributor, is the style of the pickup coil. The rusted/bent steel fingers on the pickup coil and on the magnet do not promote any kind of consistancy on the firing across all 6 cylenders. I was always a big fan of the star shaped pointed pickup and magnet. I just got finished rebuilding a 2.8 distributor using parts from a used 4.3 (blazer/S10) distributor. Far superior parts, much like the ones you installed. I'm hoping that this will eliminate some of the roughness that the Fiero has always had at an idle. You can REALLY feel the pointers when they line up now.



Any news about this mod?
How the engine performs with the new pick-up coil?

Can you please give use some details about your dizzy pick-up coil upgrade:
- Which parts you have used from the Blazer S10 distributor (only pickup coil, rotor, stator or also the ICM)?
- Is the Fiero ICM also compatible with the newer style pickup coil?
- Can you recall part numbers?

Thanks,
Moar

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 11-14-2015).]

sardonyx247 FEB 07, 03:08 AM
I do like the 'star' type better, whether it works better or not IDK, but it looks like it should.

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-07-2016).]

mrstan MAY 06, 02:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by jetman:

Totally blind installation with distributor already out of engine.

Rotate the crankshaft so the fat timing mark on harmonic balancer is on the timing tab like shown.



Note where the #1 plug wire post is on the cap and mark with white-out on the body of the distributor exactly where that is. Remove the cap.



Install distributor with the rotor pointing at your white-out mark indicating #1 post and put the distributor cap back on. (note that the rotor is point exactly where the #1 plug wire post will be when we put the cap back on.)



Insure that your plug wires are in the correct order per the pictures.



Here is another diagram of the plug location.



Try starting the car. If it doesn’t catch fire then you may be 180* off on the base timing so get the fat timing mark on the timing tab like before. Remove the distributor and crank the harmonic balancer around exactly one full turn (360*), and then re-install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 mark on the distributor. Put the cap back on and start the car.


Warm up the car then shut off, ground your ADL and restart.


Set timing with an induction timing light.

Remember that your crankshaft makes two revolutions for every revolution of the distributor, that’s why you may be at Top Dead Center (TDC) for either #1 or #4 cylinder with the fat mark lined up on the timing tab. Some folks will pull the #1 plug out, put their finger over the hole and when it blows off, you’re at TDC for #1 cylinder.

Some folks will rock the car in 2nd gear to rotate the engine on manual shift trans to get the harmonic balancer fat mark to line up on the timing tab. I’ve done that myself, beware of getting your skull slammed by the deck lid, ask me how many stars you’ll see. I have also used a long wrench and or a socket on the main bolt on the balancer. Whatever works for you.

I think that’s it for a blind installation of a distributor.




Instead of turning the engine around 360 degrees, why not just turn the distributer shaft around 180 degrees? Seems easier to turn the distributor than the whole motor... Right?
Patrick MAY 10, 09:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by mrstan:

Instead of turning the engine around 360 degrees, why not just turn the distributer shaft around 180 degrees? Seems easier to turn the distributor than the whole motor... Right?



Some people find ignition timing/ distributor placement confusing enough without now suggesting that the rotor be pointed at cylinder #4 on the cap.

LorenBateman JUL 03, 02:27 PM
This tread is so helpful,, How my 88GT is even running right now is FM{freak-in magic) wish i knew how to post video, ya'll would not believe my firing order and i get a good idle ,, but no POWER,, will start over on my day off
LorenBateman AUG 21, 01:43 AM
Started over and followed Patricks lead here,,, Found TDC on the compression stroke, Pointed the rotor at No,1, installed the cap, Plug wires 1,2,3,4,5,6 and BAM!!! Runs Great,, Thank You again for the thread
Patrick AUG 27, 05:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by LorenBateman:

...and BAM!!! Runs Great



Loren, glad things worked out.

Just in case it might help clarify an issue for anyone still having a problem, I'll add something that I originally posted in a different thread...


quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

Over the years here, I've seen so much confusion relating to setting the static timing.

First of all, the cap position can be anywhere you wish to orient it... as long as the rotor is pointing to the terminal used for #1... and the piston is at the top of the compression stroke for cylinder #1.

The only thing restricting where the distributor can actually be positioned is the wiring harness. Obviously the connection for the ICM can't be pointed away from the coil if you expect to connect the harness etc.

Below is the 2.8 in my Formula. To do the initial static timing, I have the timing mark for cylinders #1 and #4 (the wider mark on a known good harmonic balancer) set to 0° with #1 piston on the compression stroke. If I'm installing the distributor, I drop it down so that when fully seated, the rotor is pointing at the indicated bolt on the upper intake. I then rotate the outer distributor so that the terminal I'm using as #1 (as it could be any which one you want) is lined up with the rotor. The terminal I've selected seems to work best in regards to orienting the distributor towards the coil. The engine is now timed well enough to start, and dynamic timing can now be set with a timing light (or for the old guys like me, by ear). Nothing to it.
Brivander DEC 06, 02:15 PM
I've timed a million cars, that's no issue, but I can't find the timing mark on the actual crank balancer (it's painted in the pictures here). Anyone have a pic of what the mark looks like? I've spun over the motor and just don't see it.

Sorry for reviving an ancient thread!!!!

[This message has been edited by Brivander (edited 12-06-2021).]

Australian JUN 14, 06:51 AM
I found another that works but was so long ago i am trying to remember what car i got it from but off memory a Ford Japanese car. eg: Ford telstar same as mazda 626 late 80s.