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| Removing a V-6 Engine - By The Numbers (Page 10/22) |
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Saxman
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JUL 18, 04:43 PM
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I'm going back under the Formula again. Time to look through this thread so I don't forget anything. Thanks!
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katatak
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JUL 18, 05:33 PM
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The motor just went in my 86. How convienient that this thread shows up the very day it dies. Time for my first Fiero engine R & R. Thanks for the thread as I will be using it in the next few days.
Pat
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Chicken McNizzle
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JUL 18, 08:47 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by p8ntman442:
Leaving the calipers attached saves having to bleed the brakes. Just hang them from the strut tower with bungee cords. Big time saver if your not doing new pads and rotors and dont need to compress the calipers much. Deffinatly worth flushing the brake lines and bleeding if you havent done it yet. |
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Agreed, Step 32 could have been accomplished by simply leaving the calipers attached and hanging them away on the chassis by using cut up pieces of coat hanger - this prevents an hour minimum down the road on bleeding the brakes. No one wants to bleed the brakes because they worked on thier motor 
Also, the coolant could have been drained from the coolant tubes by removing the 1/4" NPT plugs on the coolant tubes. 1 is located on each side roughly about a foot ahead of where the rubber coolant tubes attach to the motor. Now bare in mind that if this is an East Coast car, chances of getting the plugs out or slim to none do to corrosion.
------------------
Recanizin' Flat-Buns Since 2001
Eric Nelson
Internet Sales Manager
Power Ford Valencia
nelsone@autonation.com
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Dennis LaGrua
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JUL 18, 10:35 PM
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If the techniques outlined is thisthread work that's great. Its just that they scare me.
We use a hydraulic lift and a motorcycle jack. Go through the steps to remove everything that holds the powertrian in place. Lift car up on hyd lift jack up motorcycle lift. Lower car down so cradle will sit on two 2 x 10 x 4 planks on the motorcycle lift, apply slight upward support remove cradle bolts and lower motorcycle lift while raising car up on hoist. Pull powertrain out from underneath on motorcycle lift. ------------------
87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Toddster
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AUG 10, 03:45 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
If the techniques outlined is thisthread work that's great. Its just that they scare me.
We use a hydraulic lift and a motorcycle jack. Go through the steps to remove everything that holds the powertrian in place. Lift car up on hyd lift jack up motorcycle lift. Lower car down so cradle will sit on two 2 x 10 x 4 planks on the motorcycle lift, apply slight upward support remove cradle bolts and lower motorcycle lift while raising car up on hoist. Pull powertrain out from underneath on motorcycle lift.
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Yet another good suggestion.
There are several different ways to separate car and cradle. Many have been posted here. Often the availability of types of jacks or the proximity of two sturdy trees or the availability of an overhead I-beam can make the difference in which method to use.
In this case, my entire goal was to show how the average schmo could, in his own driveway, take it out.
Each person will have to decide for themselves which method works best for them and take all necessary safety measures before attempting.
In any case, if you can, I STRONGLY endorse the use of a car lift for the procedure. It solves a multitude of problems and used ones can be had for $500 on Craig's List.
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RCCDrew
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AUG 10, 11:04 PM
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Thanks for this post! Very useful for me!
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Toddster
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FEB 15, 06:24 PM
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Just keeping it out of the archives
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Dennis LaGrua
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FEB 15, 07:07 PM
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Excellent write up. Not exactly the way we do it but close. We wouldn't tackle this job without a lift. On the rear cradle bolts we find that a shot of PB blaster and a strong 1/2" impact wrench hardly ever breaks ( spins) the hat nuts inside the frame loose where its more likely to happen with a breaker bar. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Toddster
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FEB 16, 04:03 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Excellent write up. Not exactly the way we do it but close. We wouldn't tackle this job without a lift. On the rear cradle bolts we find that a shot of PB blaster and a strong 1/2" impact wrench hardly ever breaks ( spins) the hat nuts inside the frame loose where its more likely to happen with a breaker bar.
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That is a good tip for people in rust country. Here is Cali that isn't much of a problem so everyone needs to look at the bolts and make a judgement call. In any case, a shot of Liquid Wrench or PB or WD-40 is a good idea no matter where you live.
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fieroboom
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FEB 16, 04:37 PM
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I'll definitely be using this, thanks again!