Distributor replacement with pictures and tips for a V-6 (Page 10/12)
NashvilleFiero JUN 13, 04:08 PM
I was amazed at how many problems I ran into / caused into with my distributor along the way.

Here goes:
1. Broken/hidden 2 wire connection to module (this was really hard to diagnose)
2. White wire from coil got crimped in and shorted between cap and base of dist (can't see back there)
3. Somehow the old rotor went back on the new dist. (wobbled on shaft, made engine miss)
4. Cleaned first rusted distributor with PB Blaster DOH! (it's magnetic !)
5. Blue screws at new cap base were too long, hit intake stud, making it seem like the dist endpoint (I think this may trip up a lot of us)

This thread helped my straighten a lot of mistakes that I made : )

Not quite out of the woods yet...: )
jetman APR 24, 07:05 PM
Here is a quick bump for the spring tune up season.
mgiusto APR 24, 07:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by jetman:

If the engine is running you're very close, 180* off and it would only backfire. You can be off several teeth, that's why you can rotate the distributor housing. If you're running but badly, double check your wiring sequence as you may have a couple of plug wires crossed or cracked a spark plug upon installation.

I thought that I would repost a couple of nice diagrams of plug wire routing.

Pictures worth a thousand words,,,,




OK My 88 Fiero GT is different than this in regards to the distributor cap diagram you have there. When my cap is on the distributor, the flat edge is located at about 7:30 o'clock if you are looking at it from back of the trunk and my #3 plug is where you have #2. This is how my car has always been. Has it been wrong all this time or is the location of where the cap is determine where #1 would start??? With my distributor cap in the location it is now, (flat edge at 7:30 o'clock) the #2 plug is located at 6 o'clock when looking at the cap from behind the trunk.

[This message has been edited by mgiusto (edited 04-24-2009).]

jetman APR 24, 09:02 PM
Generally speaking, you like to install the distributor so the rotor is pointing at your #1 post on the distributor cap and work from there. Sometimes mechanics don't get that right when they're re-installing the distributor so they "correct" by moving the plug wires one post forward or back to compensate for where the rotor is pointing at top dead center. This usually causes confusion later when someone like you or me tries to install a new distributor.

Get to top dead center on #1 cylinder, fat groove on harmonic ballancer, install distributor so rotor will be facing the #1 post on the cap, go from there.
buddycraigg APR 24, 09:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by jetman:
Get to top dead center on #1 cylinder, fat groove on harmonic ballancer, install distributor so rotor will be facing the #1 post on the cap, go from there.


just a reminder that the fat groove lines up with the pointer when #1 AND #4 are at TDC.
that is all
mgiusto APR 25, 11:05 AM

quote
Originally posted by buddycraigg:

just a reminder that the fat groove lines up with the pointer when #1 AND #4 are at TDC.
that is all



Line fat groove up with 10 * on the pointer? Can I do it this way blind without having to take the #1 plug out and check for compression? I am just one person doing this job and I am rotating the crankshaft from below the car.

Buddy great video! I was at aloss on how to paint the big groove and the 10 * marker from up abvove though. I found it so much easier doing this from below the car. with the right-rear tire off.
mgiusto APR 25, 03:37 PM
While waiting for a reply to my previous message, I went ahead and lined up the fat groove on the crankshaft pulley with the 10 degree mark on the pointer, then I removed my distributor cap and took a pic to show where the rotor is.



Notice that the rotor is located at the #4 location if the distributor cap were on. Do I now lift the distributor out and turn and put back in so it lines up with where position #1 would be as shown in my pic? When I took out the old distributor, the rotor was facing between #4 and #5 location.

Below is another pic with the distributor cap on.
Patrick APR 25, 03:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by mgiusto:

Notice that the rotor is located at the #4 location if the distributor cap were on. Do I now lift the distributor out and turn and put back in so it lines up with where position #1 would be as shown in my pic?




Only if piston #1 is actually at TDC. You won't know until you follow the instructions for finding TDC of #1.Yes, you've got the timing marks lined up, but at that position it could be for either cylinder #1 or #4.

I found the easiest way to rotate the crankshaft was to remove the passenger side rear wheel, unhook and drop the flexible side-skirt a bit, and then put a socket on the end of the crankshaft with a long extension. In doing so, I was able to stand beside the car and observe the timing mark on the balancer while I reached around and turned the crankshaft with a ratchet.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-25-2009).]

GlassParking_Lot APR 25, 04:41 PM
Hey, I know this is a bad thing, but what if you did'ent marking the place of the old distributor and just put the new one in ? lol sorry. Can anyone help me ? All my friends are calling me an idiot. lol
jetman APR 25, 10:49 PM
Totally blind installation with distributor already out of engine.

Rotate the crankshaft so the fat timing mark on harmonic balancer is on the timing tab like shown.



Note where the #1 plug wire post is on the cap and mark with white-out on the body of the distributor exactly where that is. Remove the cap.



Install distributor with the rotor pointing at your white-out mark indicating #1 post and put the distributor cap back on. (note that the rotor is point exactly where the #1 plug wire post will be when we put the cap back on.)



Insure that your plug wires are in the correct order per the pictures.



Here is another diagram of the plug location.



Try starting the car. If it doesn’t catch fire then you may be 180* off on the base timing so get the fat timing mark on the timing tab like before. Remove the distributor and crank the harmonic balancer around exactly one full turn (360*), and then re-install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 mark on the distributor. Put the cap back on and start the car.


Warm up the car then shut off, ground your ADL and restart.


Set timing with an induction timing light.

Remember that your crankshaft makes two revolutions for every revolution of the distributor, that’s why you may be at Top Dead Center (TDC) for either #1 or #4 cylinder with the fat mark lined up on the timing tab. Some folks will pull the #1 plug out, put their finger over the hole and when it blows off, you’re at TDC for #1 cylinder.

Some folks will rock the car in 2nd gear to rotate the engine on manual shift trans to get the harmonic balancer fat mark to line up on the timing tab. I’ve done that myself, beware of getting your skull slammed by the deck lid, ask me how many stars you’ll see. I have also used a long wrench and or a socket on the main bolt on the balancer. Whatever works for you.

I think that’s it for a blind installation of a distributor.


------------------
jetman
Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with "check wallet light"
Now fortified with 8 essential slices of bacon goodness

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 04-25-2009).]