Custom AC Hoses (Page 2/19)
bjc 350 JUL 18, 01:44 AM
2002z28ssconv-you have a PM with pictures of my WC Fiero headers on an 84 with 3.8 sc.
Fierofreak00 JUL 18, 07:49 AM
You seem to have forgotten about the other information I provided to you. If your going to do it, do it right.

Like..

1. The orifice tube. You should change it to the correct size to work with R134 (again remember that R12 works at a diff press than R134). This helps immensely with efficiency and operation. Napa sells replacement R134 compatible orifice tubes for regular hot weather and for extreme hot weather.

2. You should also change your receiver drier (accumulator) to the more correct R134 friendly model. Not only because the desiccant is different (drier medium) it's also a reservoir for old incompatible oil that is actually taking up space that could be used for new oil and refrigerant. Napa also sells the correct receiver drier as well.

3. The correct charge of R134 . Because of the different pressures, you need to install the correct amount to realize the full potential of the system.

As a side note, I wouldn't offer the "basic" set without a disclaimer. You might be setting yourself up for potential issues. Especially if the buyer isn't aware of possible compressor failure due to the lack of a low pressure switch (as I referenced in the other thread). I do that with my fuel rails, as I cannot predict how a buyer is going to use them.

[This message has been edited by Fierofreak00 (edited 07-18-2014).]

BMTFIERO JUL 18, 12:26 PM
Fierofreak00 you have a PM
2002z28ssconv JUL 18, 03:32 PM
FF,
I haven't forgotten... You do have a valid concern... So I have revised my initial post.

[This message has been edited by 2002z28ssconv (edited 07-18-2014).]

Raydar JUL 18, 10:00 PM
Regarding the high/low pressure switches...

The switch on the receiver/drier is a pressure cycling switch. If the system leaks down, that switch will prevent the compressor from running.
The critical switch that is missing (at least on a 4.9 installation, using the caddy compressor) is the high pressure cutout switch. This, of course, was probably instrumental in making my high side hose blow off, coming back from Indy. Made a hell of a noise.

I am in the process of flushing/reworking my system, and plan to install a high pressure switch in the front compartment, in the high side service port next to the orifice tube. It will be wired in series with the cycling switch. Of course, the switch can also be installed in the lines, near the compressor.
2002z28ssconv JUL 19, 09:57 AM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Regarding the high/low pressure switches...

The switch on the receiver/drier is a pressure cycling switch. If the system leaks down, that switch will prevent the compressor from running.
The critical switch that is missing (at least on a 4.9 installation, using the caddy compressor) is the high pressure cutout switch...



You may be correct.
The switch on the dryer does shut the switch off at pressures below a certain level. However I'm pretty sure that it shuts off at pressures above a certain level too.
So with that said, it would be a "cycling" switch. However, my expectation is that it is a safety switch and the range is way wider than what should be seen in normal operating conditions. I will borrow a set of AC manifolds and give the pressure range that allows the compressor to be energized by just using this switch.
One of my Fieros has a blocked expansion valve and shuts off soon after it is turned on because the pressure gets too high so I will be able to find this reading too.

As for an update...
Each supplier, who told me they had what I was looking for, had items that were pretty close but when it came down to it they weren't 100% correct. I am having to get these custom made a couple states away. So please be patient. These WILL be made right and detailed info will be included with each set ordered. My latest supplier will get one of my spare hose ends that has the port and sensor attached to it on Monday. They will verify that the part they fabricate will allow an actual duplication of the stock 3800 setup. Once I have these in hand (hopefully mid to late next week) I will start building the hose assemblies.

Who knew a simple hose could get so complicated?
All I want to do is make some hoses but with so many versions of the facts being passed around I feel it's time for me to test everything for myself. I myself am guilty of trusting what others have said and not verifying the facts for myself.
For that I apologize.
I believe everyone has had good intentions but that doesn't change the fact that there has been information shared that was not 100% factual.
For example, the inline splice connectors that have been linked to on eBay are ALL the wrong configuration. Some are the wrong size tubing. And all listed so far have had the wrong size or type of port for the sensor to be attached to it. So if you are planning on doing this yourself, please beware of that.
Likewise, the switch on the dryer does shut the compressor off at low pressure. None of this changes the fact that the best way to control the compressor is by letting the PCM do the work.

[This message has been edited by 2002z28ssconv (edited 07-19-2014).]

Fierofreak00 JUL 19, 10:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by 2002z28ssconv:

FF,
I haven't forgotten... You do have a valid concern... So I have revised my initial post.




Good call! You can never be too safe when it comes to other peoples experience level. In the Marine Corps we had a saying, CYA...Cover Your Ass whether it be in combat or in everyday mundane things. You need to make sure you don't leave it all hanging out.. -Jason


quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Regarding the high/low pressure switches...

The switch on the receiver/drier is a pressure cycling switch. If the system leaks down, that switch will prevent the compressor from running.
The critical switch that is missing (at least on a 4.9 installation, using the caddy compressor) is the high pressure cutout switch. This, of course, was probably instrumental in making my high side hose blow off, coming back from Indy. Made a hell of a noise.

I am in the process of flushing/reworking my system, and plan to install a high pressure switch in the front compartment, in the high side service port next to the orifice tube. It will be wired in series with the cycling switch. Of course, the switch can also be installed in the lines, near the compressor.



Thanks for the correction Raydar, I realize now that I had gotten the switches labeled incorrectly in my recent explanation. Honestly, I was writing off the cuff without any service information in front of me (I just looked it up to be sure ) because I wanted to get the information out there. But, I believe even with my minor mistake that my concern is still valid. In that, to have a properly operating system, you need all the correct pieces to the puzzle in play to make the system safe and operate correctly. -Jason

[This message has been edited by Fierofreak00 (edited 07-19-2014).]

Fierofreak00 JUL 19, 10:27 AM
double post...

[This message has been edited by Fierofreak00 (edited 07-19-2014).]

Fierofreak00 JUL 19, 11:34 AM
I went and pulled my files for the Napa P/N's.

Orifice tube 207311
Variable orifice tube for 95 or higher weather 207325
Accumulator (R134A compatible) 208543
Retrofit kit with oil, orings, and fittings 409995
Cycling switch (on accumulator if NOT using transducer) 207883
2002z28ssconv JUL 29, 02:19 PM
For an update...
I am still having the adapters made. The company that will be making them has ordered the supplies but won't have any made until next week at the earliest. Sorry for the delay. I can still do the basic hose too.