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| ECM upgrade (1227730) for stock 2.8 (Page 97/107) |
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blkpearl
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DEC 05, 01:05 PM
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Hey guy's I need some help on doing this swap.
I think it's finally time to modernize my 3.4 pushrod with the 7730 ecm swap. I have a 3.4 with Trueleo intake and headers. So I need I will need a custom tune.
My questions are about going with the DIS. It's unclear to me unless I missed something what everyone does with the actual Distributer once it is no longer needed. Is it taken out, or do I remember if it's left in place because it helps run the water pump or something?
I would like to completely take it out if that's possible. And that is my main question.
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Goldenfoot
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DEC 05, 01:37 PM
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blkpearl
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DEC 05, 01:47 PM
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Thankyou for the response. I have read that because I have the 3.4 I can go DIS. I just needed to know what actually "plugs" the ditributer hole.
Really look forward to doing this.
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Goldenfoot
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DEC 05, 01:52 PM
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That last link is a picture of the one on my car. Thats what you will be looking for.
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scott0999
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DEC 08, 02:14 PM
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you can get them off any 60v6 that had DIS (2.8/3.1/3100/3400/3500 ect)
 [This message has been edited by scott0999 (edited 12-08-2010).]
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Blacktree
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DEC 08, 05:14 PM
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Yeah, if you look in a junkyard, any 2.8 / 3.1 / 3.4 V6 with DIS will have the "dummy distributer" in the engine block. It's basically just the bottom half of a distributer, which is used to drive the oil pump. You may need a putty knife or a thin-blade screwdriver to pry it out. Also remember to get the crank position sensor, which will be down by the oil pan on the firewall side of the engine block (on a FWD car). The parts list for your DIS conversion should be as follows:
-- Mounting Bracket (for module and coils)
-- Ignition Module
-- Coil Packs (3)
-- Crankshaft Position Sensor
-- Dummy Distributer
-- Wiring connectors
-- Spark Plug Wires
You should actually be able to get the 2-wire cable for the crank position sensor intact. It just runs from the sensor to the ignition brick. So you shouldn't need to snip the wires.
I listed the spark plug wires, because chances are your existing ones will not be the right lengths. Also, remember to re-gap your spark plugs to 0.060" after swapping in the DIS setup. And last but not least, the DIS setup does not use a tach filter. It gets deleted. If you need any more tips or info, feel free to drop me a PM.
And just for kicks...
THIS:
Lets you do THIS:
hehe 
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Blacktree
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DEC 11, 07:40 AM
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OK, here's a dumb question: which spark tables should I use for the 3.4 pushrod with DIS? I'm using the A1 code mask, to work with the DIS. But all the bin files for that code mask are for aluminum-head engines. Should I carry over the spark tables from my previous bin file (Camaro 3.1 with distributer)? Or does DIS necessitate changes to the spark timing? [This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 12-11-2010).]
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scott0999
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DEC 12, 04:01 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Blacktree:
OK, here's a dumb question: which spark tables should I use for the 3.4 pushrod with DIS? I'm using the A1 code mask, to work with the DIS. But all the bin files for that code mask are for aluminum-head engines. Should I carry over the spark tables from my previous bin file (Camaro 3.1 with distributer)? Or does DIS necessitate changes to the spark timing?
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you should datalog and see if you have any knock with your current settings. if none trying increasing it 2* or so. make another run and check for knock
run the most spark advance you can without any spark induced knock, thats the table you should use 
I know thats prolly not the answer you were hoping for but for a custom application thats what you gotta do sometimes
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RWDPLZ
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DEC 13, 10:34 AM
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Here's what the dummy distributor looks like, I got this one out of a 94 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.1
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1984 Fiero SE
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RWDPLZ
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DEC 13, 10:48 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by scott0999:
you can get them off any 60v6 that had DIS (2.8/3.1/3100/3400/3500 ect)
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The cylinder numbers aren't labeled correctly on that engine?
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