 
     |
| Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 93/102) |
|
Will
|
APR 11, 08:51 AM
|
|
|
I no longer use solder... I'm all about crimp butt splices and clear shrink tube.
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 18, 01:03 AM
|
|
I've been full time on this project since my post on the 9th and I am happy to say that I did not smell any electrical odors or see any smoke when I applied power to the system. There are still a number of things to finish with the engine install but it's about 80% ready. I tried to talk to the ecm with my laptop but the software said that the firmware needs updating. We will be away for the day tomorrow so its likely not to get fired up until next week sometime. I did a couple of other little upgrades like flipping the strut tops to gain an inch of up travel and welded up some sleeves to keep the top of the rear springs centered if the springs get unloaded. Hopefully there will not be any more setbacks. I am excited to see if the new Holley can self tune or not. 
Charlie
|
|
|
|
RCR
|
APR 18, 05:39 PM
|
|
Come on Charlie. Get it done, I'm catching up to you (ok, I'm not)...
Bob
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 18, 09:19 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by RCR:
Come on Charlie. Get it done, I'm catching up to you (ok, I'm not)...
Bob |
|
 heading back into the garage now...
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 19, 03:01 AM
|
|
Waiting for the YouTube link to show proof that it runs again. Did not see any leaks after it warmed up to temp. I still need to set the rear wheel camber and recheck the alignment all around before driving it for tuning runs. I also noticed that the left rear caliper was unusually tight and will need to loosen it up a tad too
Charlie
Here is the Video.[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 04-19-2015).]
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 21, 08:31 PM
|
|
Got the rearend aligned pretty good but it was a pita using just a 24" level and a string line...
Got the sliders on both rear calipers lubed up and they seem ok now. I've only run the engine that one time so now that the car is drivable, I'll see if I can get the base fuel map to self learn like it's supposed to. One of the other neat features of this ecm is that I was able to program a rpm limited cutoff for the a/c compressor. The v-5 has a maximum continuous rpm rating of 6500-7500 and with the 1.55-1 ratio to engine rpm, I felt setting a cutoff engine rpm of 4180 should keep it in a safe rpm range. In the same output parameter, I included the usual tps and coolant temp cutoff points. . I don't have the a/c hooked up just yet but if the ecm and engine run as they should, that's the next and last thing to do before I can say it's completed.
Charlie
|
|
|
|
RCR
|
APR 22, 07:04 AM
|
|
Very cool... Nice job...
Bob
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 22, 08:41 AM
|
|
Thank you Bob!
As usual, not everything goes as planned. The car started right up and I ran it for about 15-20 minutes and watched it self tune for the last couple of those minutes after it was up to operating temp. Then I shut it down and went in for dinner. When I tried re-starting after dinner, it would not fire. I may be about to find out why the 950 was not working well. This system uses a slightly different method of getting power and I suspect that one if not two of the three power sources (stock Fiero power wires) might be intermittent. I am taking power from the junction block just below the C-500 using the same mono plug that the original Fiero ecm was powered by and the source of power I used for the 950. Also, I am using switched power from the original Fiero wiring coming out of the C-500. The third source of power for the Holley ecm comes directly from the battery itself and I am pretty sure that is a good connection so I'll check it last. The issue seems to be that the injectors and the ignition are not firing during cranking. The switched power source is supposed to be hot in both "run" and "crank" from the ignition switch. It's possible after 27 years that there might be a problem with the ignition switch. This power runs the relay that provides power for the spark, injectors and the fuel pump signal. The relay in question is the one from the 950 because it has a mounting lug and the new one did not. That will be the first thing I swap out. The relay connects the power from the original Fiero ecm power wire to the spark and injectors. The plug might not be connecting very well and or the wire itself might be internally corroded. I'll be checking for that right after modifying the new relay with a means of mounting it and installing it. I remembered yesterday that this car also has a headlight gremlin. Sometimes both motors work normally, sometimes neither work at all and sometimes only the right motor works and the left does not. I have an extra headlight module but will check the connections first to see if that is all it is.
Charlie
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 22, 06:26 PM
|
|
I am happy to report that it was neither the switched nor the always hot from the Fiero electrical system. It was one last ooops in the wiring harness that I missed. The ignition coil was drawing power from the fuel pump/injector relay and in doing so, was not energized unless the fuel pump was running during the "prime" period before cranking the engine. Since I'm still using the stock fuel pump relay (getting its signal from the new Holley supplied relay) I just need to take the signal wire from the Holley relay and run it to the stock fuel pump relay. Then I will use the stock "switched" power from C-500 to signal the Holley relay which will power the ignition coil and injectors anytime the key is in the run/start position. Easy-peasy!
While I have the battery out, I might as well unplug and clean all the headlight motor plugs and grounds. Hopefully that will be all that is needed for those to work properly.
will report later on progress...
Charlie
|
|
|
|
cptsnoopy
|
APR 22, 11:52 PM
|
|
Got the wiring changes done and it fires up right away...  One problem solved... I cleaned the grounds and the connectors for the headlight motors and now they won't budge. I will check the fusible links near the C-500 and if they are good, then I will pull the left front wheel well liner and clean the plug for the module. If that does not cut it then I'll replace the module with my spare. Hoping that will do it.
Charlie
|
|
|
