Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 91/102)
cptsnoopy SEP 03, 12:59 AM
Finished banding the tripot grease boot today. Much better clearance now. At least 3/8" if not closer to 7/16".
Getting the adel clamps off the o2 sensor lead took patience but getting the sensor out after that was pretty easy.
I got the new sensor plugged in and calibrated but had to call it night at that point. If I'm around tomorrow I should be able to test the system and bump up the fuel pressure.

Charlie
cptsnoopy SEP 06, 01:46 AM
I tried a few more things to get the engine running smooth. What helped the most was bumping the timing at and near idle up from 13 to 25 but still, it did not get rid of the miss. It still runs and drives like an 8 cylinder engine running on 6 cylinders. So, I ordered the Holley dominator computer with dual wideband o2 sensors and for the most part that is all I will be taking advantage of. I need to drop the cradle anyway as I plan to install a brand new alternator and while the cradle is out of the car, install the stronger valve springs. That will allow the engine to rev to 8000.
Here are a couple of pics with the wing on. The body is now complete and looks pretty good.

Charlie
cptsnoopy SEP 06, 02:01 AM
Oh, I forgot to mention, 60mph in second gear is pretty Awesome too

Charlie
Bloozberry SEP 06, 06:47 AM

quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
The body is now complete and looks pretty good.



Understatement of the year.
cptsnoopy SEP 06, 03:27 PM
Thank you Dave!

I sure hope I can get the engine running right. It feels like it'll be a lot of fun.

Charlie
cptsnoopy SEP 11, 12:05 AM
It took a couple of days but the engine is back out of the car. I have ordered a new AC-Delco alternator with hopes that it will last awhile since I have to remove the engine to change it. The alternator that I was using was purchased used online with no idea what the history on it was.
I should receive the stronger valve springs in a couple of days and if the valve spring compressor tool I bought is the right one, I should have them installed by the end of next week. I will also see if there is any way to tell what cams I have installed when I have them out of the engine.
It will be a week or two before the new Dominator ECM arrives and I need it to see where I can place it in the car or in the engine bay. Once I figure that out, I can give chrfab.com the info and they will make a wiring harness for me as part of the deal. So I am guessing the whole thing will be installed and ready to test in about 6 weeks or so. One of the things I noticed during every time I jacked the car up is that the rear bump stops have been crumbling apart. I need figure out an alternative as I am pretty sure it's the coilover springs that are slowly destroying the bump stops. if anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them.

Charlie
RCR SEP 11, 07:03 AM
Awww.... so close..... It will be better than now once ready...

Bob
Will SEP 11, 08:48 AM

quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:

I have ordered a new AC-Delco alternator with hopes that it will last awhile since I have to remove the engine to change it. The alternator that I was using was purchased used online with no idea what the history on it was.
I should receive the stronger valve springs in a couple of days and if the valve spring compressor tool I bought is the right one, I should have them installed by the end of next week. I will also see if there is any way to tell what cams I have installed when I have them out of the engine.



You should be able to change any alternator smaller than the CS144 with the engine in the car. I formerly had a CS144 and "downgraded" to a CS130. The smaller alternator still produces plenty of current to run the Fiero's low-demand electrical system, but can be R+R'd without dropping the cradle.
I had to do this to fit it to the CS144 mount location:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../000121-18.html#p704





Also, I'm sure you know how to measure lobe lift with calipers once you have the cam covers off. You have Shelby cams, right?

The Shelby cams supposedly had the L37 intakes ground 5 degrees advanced, so you may need to break out the degree wheel for that. However, the Shelby cams could be stamped with specific part numbers...
For ref, the L37 has 266 degrees of intake duration and .370 lift. All flat tappet engines have 244 degrees exhaust duration and .339 lift.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-11-2014).]

cptsnoopy SEP 12, 08:18 AM
Thank you for the info Will. I'll look but I am pretty sure that my a/c compressor will still block removal of the smaller alternator. And IIRC the front crossmember makes it impossible to remove the a/c compressor. Hopefully I won't need to worry about it for awhile. I am also looking at making a heat shield for the rear of the alternator and a/c compressor.

I have been looking at some ideas for the rear bumpstops. From info I have gathered here on PFF, it looks like the first thing to do is to flip the top plate over. after that I will either need to clamp the top of the spring to the roof of the strut tower or attach a spring guide to the top plate similar to the WCF solution. After that, I will decide to either use the stock style of bump stop or something else to do the job.

Charlie
Will SEP 12, 09:34 AM

quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:

Thank you for the info Will. I'll look but I am pretty sure that my a/c compressor will still block removal of the smaller alternator. And IIRC the front crossmember makes it impossible to remove the a/c compressor. Hopefully I won't need to worry about it for awhile. I am also looking at making a heat shield for the rear of the alternator and a/c compressor.

I have been looking at some ideas for the rear bumpstops. From info I have gathered here on PFF, it looks like the first thing to do is to flip the top plate over. after that I will either need to clamp the top of the spring to the roof of the strut tower or attach a spring guide to the top plate similar to the WCF solution. After that, I will decide to either use the stock style of bump stop or something else to do the job.

Charlie



If the A/C compressor is on the stock brackets (and your crank centerline is where the 2.8's was) then the CS130 alternator will just fit between the A/C comp and the firewall. Once it makes it through that, it comes out past *my* crossmember easily. Yours may be a little further forward, but IIRC the big deal is clearance to the A/C comp and there's, comparatively, plenty of clearance to the crossmember.