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1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

Any estimates as to what the LT1 is putting out? Thats alot more than what I got

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1986 GT, LT1/4T60E. In the middle of cam/port, new interior, paint and waiting on new wheels. Itll blow you away!!
http://hometown.aol.com/ptfiero/index.html
build
http://dtcc.cz28.com/Customer/LT1Fiero/index.htm

quote Originally posted by Mr. Pat: Any estimates as to what the LT1 is putting out? Thats alot more than what I got

Hey Mr. Pat - thanks for looking - how's your cam/port going?

The engine builder Rod from Hot Rod Inc. really seems to know his stuff.
Today he showed me timeslips and awards of his own 1973 Nova SBC beating big blocks and running the 1/4 mile in under 9 seconds on 10 inch slicks.
I am having him prepare me a build sheet of the rebuild including all parts etc. that I will post on this thread.

I'm not really interested in starting a flame war with anyone since I have no dyno numbers, but Rod claims HP on motor will be in the 350-375HP range up from the stock 260HP.

I am using the smallest jets on the fogger nitrous setup of 100HP - it gives a true extra 100HP at the crank or about 80-85RWHP instantly when the digital window switch hits selected rpm at WOT.
Once it is tuned right I may up to a 150HP shot as it is proven that stock LT1 motors can run that regularly without problems.
Anything above that up to +300HP would require a digital timing retard box and a second stage to play safe.

With 6.0 Litres, balanced, ported heads, crane cam, 10:1 compression, CAI, and headers, I would be happy with a 90-100 HP gain over stock, which I think is realistic.
What do you SBC gurus on the forum think?


Here are a couple more pics:

Crank before pickup and pan are installed:


Reversed intake bolted down, accel injectors and aluminum valve covers installed:

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1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

Thats more than realistic. What are the specs on the cam? Mine is a pretty beefy cam, wouldnt make for a practical DD, but then, who builds these kinds of cars for a DD? Right now im waiting on the new brake kit to come. The guy keeps blowing me off, and no one wants to move my car because we found out that the bolts holding the rims on are pretty much all broken. Its a wonder it hasnt broken completly. So, I may just end up getting stock replacements so we can move on with the project. Like all my projects, they take what seems like years to start, and a week or 2 to complete. but im actually in the process of discharging from the AF, and hopefully they will let me out. We wont know till JAG tells us.

But a good port job should see about 40-50 crank, and a good cam another possible 100 depending on the cam and tune. I would guess you would be making close to 350-375 at the wheels. 260 is scary!! Let alone close to 400. Im actually going to be terrified to drive mine when its done. Im looking at getting 500 to the ground on the bottle.

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1986 GT, LT1/4T60E. In the middle of cam/port, new interior, paint and waiting on new wheels. Itll blow you away!!
http://hometown.aol.com/ptfiero/index.html
build
http://dtcc.cz28.com/Customer/LT1Fiero/index.htm

Pictures hot off the press:

Progress is being made today fitting the assembly on the cradle.
I think I may have one of the first LT1's with Archie's auto adapter plate and a Cadillac 4T60 - makes for a very wide setup!
I guess Mr. Pat's built with help from Darth would also be wide...

My goal is to try and avoid a notch to the left side frame rail of the car, but a test fit with have to determine that.


Here is a shot from the front of the motor (passenger side of car) showing Archie's pulley shimmed to tightly fit the Optispark.
I had to change the waterpump last year and now is the time to remove the unused lower right port and plug it properly.
I am also planning to install a bleeder in the gooseneck as I had a hard time bleeding the system after the stock one was removed to make more clearance at the stock tower.
You might notice the water jackets that lead to the throttle body has also been removed and the EGR has been blocked off - (it passed it's final E-Test without it by testing the car as a hot rod)

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A chrome hugger header will be installed on this side (front of the car) so it stays tight to the block and passes between the cradle (K-frame) and the block.
I just noticed I need another knock sensor as my Street and Performance ECM requires two.
The car doesn't have A/C so Archie's mount won't be needed.

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Here is a good shot of the starter mounted - unfortunately it will need to be removed for the oil filter adapter, but you can see how little room there is for clearance there.
I also have a new flexplate installed as the first one took a beating while I was learning to properly shim a starter
I am hoping that the trans lines are metric fittings - anyone know?
Also I will need to run a addtional vacuum line to the intake manifold that the stock trans didn't require - no problem as I've got 2 extra ports.

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This is a view from the driver's side showing the mount location.
I may need to modify the mount / bracket etc. for clearance as it is much larger that the TH125c bracket - the good news is that it's also stronger...


Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-26-2006).]

Here's a picture of Rod making a VERY small notch in the cradle to clear the pan near the rear control arm mount.
It was required to sit the whole assembly level.
Please note the motor is sitting on the higher mount location on Archie's front engine bracket.
Also enjoy Rod's various safety violations while using a cutting torch

I had previously modified the rear hugger header for clearance to the governor but since this trans is 2" longer there and the governor cap is higher, I decided to add a 3/8" spacer at the header gasket for clearance rather than changing the angle of the header since it would require the rest of the exhaust to be tweaked.
Also required is a trans to engine mount to be fabricated since neither of the stock ones I have will work without modification.
I also notice that although the throttle body is now closer to the TV and throttle cables, it may be tricky connecting them since they are 180 degrees off - anyone have pictures of the best way to route them?


Can you tell I'm excited and can see a light at the end of the tunnel after 4 months of waiting in order to get a better deal on the price?
Ryan

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1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html