Whoo hooo - I own page three of my own thread...

The final job I wanted to do was to install Ken Hines “Euro Tail Light Assembly”. I ordered it pre-cut for ’78-’82 Corvette tail lights. I’d found some used tail lights at a wrecker in Oklahoma City – via the intranet and had them shipped earlier directly to Archie’s. Ken shipped the panel to Archie’s as well. I guess Archie knew I was up to no good.. with packages coming to him with my name on them… tee hee hee

Anyway, the first thing I did when I unpacked the panel was check it over. Great craftsmanship on Ken’s part. Norm, Rob, Kris and Archie said it was the best fibreglass part they’d ever seen. All mounting holes are drilled and have clips in them. This panel has a tongue of fiberglass in each bottom corner, with a hole pre-drilled. There are two holes on each bottom inside corner of the rear bumper. Once fastened, the bottom of the bumper is secure. You tighten these inside mount points by wrenchin' through the turn light opening before you put the lenses on. These extra mounting points (8 in all) make the part 100% secure. No loose bottom.

Being impatient, I get the old lenses off and put the part on –without doing the wiring. Perfect fit first time.



I get Archie to help me out with the wiring instructions and go to his wrecked cars to pilfer two turning element housings. I thought they’d come with the panel but were not included. I get the wiring put together and tested and then install the unfinished part. That’s enough for day one. I drive back to the hotel and take on last picture before it gets prepped and painted…



Next, I rough up the gelcoat and sand down a very small seam line of gelcoat at the top. I then prime it and paint it semi-gloss black.



Next I remove all the unused bulbs and get Kris to replace my flasher with a digital version. This way it will turn on the 4 ways and turn signals without having to have all the bulbs in. I then tidy up the harness and zip tie the loose unused wires and bulb harnesses. I Velcro the backup lights so they will show a tiny amount.




Install the panel and put on the Corvette lenses…. Ahhhh all done.

I guess it’s a personal preference thing – but I really light the tail light assembly. Only reference to “Pontiac” is on the driver side head light cover…. Not a bad thing – but now when I get asked what kind of car it is I’ll use Archie’s line and say “It’s a “prototype” Ferrari being test marketed for North America only!”…. hahhhaaaa

With the finished product....





My next job – after this one – to be done sometime later this winter is to install permanent BU lights where the reflectors currently reside…

One last thing… I need to update my Signature Graphics….

I really have to thank Archie, Kris and Rob. They were great and at the end of the two days felt like I was part of their crew. I can’t recommend them highly enough. I know some on PFF my think I’m blowing smoke – but I could not have been treated better…


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[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 09-14-2006).]

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This is my new signature....

Snootz - no idea why the sig isn't showing...

Ahhh that should do it...
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[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 09-14-2006).]

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Who sez you have do things in order?!

I stopped by Tandy Leather on my way home and picked up a scrap bit of leather. Close in colour to what I wanted - but a bit lighter. After I rub the leather down with light MinWax it should darken up just enough to be a perfect match. Here's the add on of the shifter boot.

Take the boot shifter and assembly appart. Squish out part and trace the outline - give a little extra - on the leather. Make sure I number the parts so they go back in the same order as shape for each part is slightly different...



Lay everything out for a clean shot...



I don't have a sewing machine, so hand sew the seams (inside out) by hand with wax thread. It lasts a lot longer than regular thread and because of the wax will be moisture proof. About an hour and a half later ... tada!



Now turn it inside out (good side out), but keep the top of the neck doubled - don't turn it all the way right side. Put the base plate into the bottom of the new boot (I bought this from Rodney Dickman ($12)) and use a knife to score the locations for the four posts after moving the leather around to get the best fit...



Attach the new shifter boot to the top of the center console...



Then put the centre part of the console back in the car...



I did not have the MinWax - so will rub the shifter down this weekend. It's much nicer than the old half rotted "pleather". I did not glue the leather to the steel base. With the metal base and the four screws, there is full contact all the way around. No need for glue.

If you're pattern is a little bigger than stock, you can run up a second bigger seam inside, taking up some material to tighten the look up.

Dave
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[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 09-15-2006).]