PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

V6 Engine Rebuild -mild performance- maniac way (Page 8/18)

timgray

DEC 01, 07:00 AM

I always weld the pickup tube to the oil pump. that way it can never come off. Lots of hootrodders and racers do that as well. just a couple of seconds with the tig or small mig and it's done.

What brand of paint did you use on the covers? Is it high temp? Every time I see polished aluminum painted in clear, it really dulls the look and yours did not.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 12-01-2008).]

m0sh_man

DEC 01, 08:53 AM

quote

Originally posted by timgray:

I always weld the pickup tube to the oil pump. that way it can never come off. Lots of hootrodders and racers do that as well. just a couple of seconds with the tig or small mig and it's done.

What brand of paint did you use on the covers? Is it high temp? Every time I see polished aluminum painted in clear, it really dulls the look and yours did not.

i do the same, after you've had one fall off on a 2.8L you never leave them alone again.

with the tube off, when you make hard turns, it will NOT suck oil up and oil pressure will drop scarry when your oil pressure gauge bottoms out in turns but works fine in normal driving.

matthew

Fieromaniac

DEC 01, 09:12 AM

quote

these rims are done with same clearcoat 350° Temperature and ultra scratchresistant

did also engineroom things( dogbone and others ) with it and brake calipers .
The rims and the other Things still look good

brand is from A.T.U but iam afraid you wont get it over there .

Fieromaniac

DEC 01, 02:31 PM

here the clearcoat brand i used

some shots with the dry clearcoat and some closeups

Fieromaniac

DEC 29, 09:40 AM

all rods are the same weight now

- wrist pins where 2 hrs in the freezer -18°C
- rods heated to around 400°C

then you have 2 seconds to push the wrist pin with your hand through the rod
if you fail you maybe damage the Piston if you press out the pins again.

now checking the weight and all rod+pistons are at 1092 gramm

82-T/A [At Work]

DEC 29, 11:15 AM

Hey Fieromaniac,

I've done the 3.1 conversion, and hopefully can give you some insight on the rebuild. Interstingly enough, I performed most of these upgrades and changes in phases, so I can tell you what works and what doesn't. On the port-matching, I did the 1.52:1 Crane Roller Rockers, and the port-matching of all the intake pieces all at the same time, it made a huge difference... huge as in, it was clearly noticeable on the V6 engine (it was still a 2.8 at the time). I do not have dynoed results, but the performance difference was like that of going to a set of headers on an ecotec motor.

Honestly, when you look at the way the intakes are matched up, there is at LEAST a 1/8th restriction on one side of each intake. When you add the total blockage (if you will) in the intakes, you've got as much as 2 to 3/8ths of an inch of restriction in some of the intake ports between the intake manifold and the runners (the middle section). I honestly believe that ANYONE that has a V6 Fiero, this should be their first improvement.

I don't know if you're planning on going with headers or performance manifolds, but going with hogged out stock exhaust manifolds will also greatly improve the performance.

As far as cam selections, the ARI Racing Phase-2 cam was pretty decent, that's what I went with. Directly from off-idle, it would smoke the rear tires at least 20 feet with my Th-125 and 235/60/15 Firestone Firehawk tires (that's what I have in the rear). It's strange that I could get so much wheel spin from a chinsy 3.1? I wasn't that happy with the Phase-2 cam though because all the power was focused in the lower RPM range. The engine would basically die after 4,000 rpms. Even with the restrictive intake neck, the Fiero's engine should still perform well at least to 5,000 rpms. My advice is to go with either the 2030 Crane Cam, or the H272 Cam. I chose the H272 personally along with the 1.52:1 Crane Rollers that I already had.

I went with .040 overbore Hyperutectic pistons for a total compression of 9.1:1 (also from ARI Racing).

Although somewhat unnecessary, I figure if you're going to do it, you might as well make it as reliable as you can and build it as best as you can. Ask the machine shop to knife-edge the counterweights on your new 3.1 crank, and balance the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc). It's been proven to GREATLY improve the overall reliability, fuel economy, and efficiency of an engine when the entire rotating assembly has been professionally balanced.

Also make sure you have your spring thickness and height properly adjusted for the cam you select.

You'll also want to go with 17lb injectors. You'll want to keep the "pintle" style injectors (like what's factory). Accel sells a set of nearly identical injectors that are 17 pounds. They sell them in sets of 4, 6 or 8 from Summit Racing.

As you may have realized already, going with the 3.1 crank will make your car neutrally balanced, so you'll want to make sure you get the 88 flywheel.

Also, are you keeping the Th-125 or switching to a 4-Speed automatic? Either way, you'll want to get a torque converter that's got a slightly higher stall speed. I ended up going with an FZ (I believe?) torque converter from an 87 4-Cyl Th-125 which apparently has a 150 higher stall speed (as recommended by Ed Parks). It definitely made the car feel more snappy. The old torque converter was such a slug.

Also, make sure that your temperature sensors, intake air temperature, etc... are new when you put it all back together.

Also, Rodney Dickman sells an air intake kit which allows you to keep the stock canister, but gives you a much improved passage through the water seperator area. Basically connecting directly from the scoop to the air filter canister without any sharp bends. I think it was like $21 bucks or something.

Good luck, FEEL FREE to e-mail me if you have any questions about my setup:

jasperst@dolphins.nfl.com

EDIT: There is a much newer (and better) distributor that is an OEM replacement for the one that came with our cars originally. It's identical in every way but has a more advanced "rotator"??? assembly. Fewer chances for a misfire, etc. I would look into getting that instead.
------------------
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convt. (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1981 EZ-GO Xi875-A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 350

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 12-29-2008).]

Fieromaniac

DEC 29, 02:58 PM

quote

Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

Hey Fieromaniac,

I've done the 3.1 conversion, and hopefully can give you some insight on the rebuild. Interstingly enough, I performed most of these upgrades and changes in phases, so I can tell you what works and what doesn't. On the port-matching, I did the 1.52:1 Crane Roller Rockers, and the port-matching of all the intake pieces all at the same time, it made a huge difference... huge as in, it was clearly noticeable on the V6 engine (it was still a 2.8 at the time). I do not have dynoed results, but the performance difference was like that of going to a set of headers on an ecotec motor.

Honestly, when you look at the way the intakes are matched up, there is at LEAST a 1/8th restriction on one side of each intake. When you add the total blockage (if you will) in the intakes, you've got as much as 2 to 3/8ths of an inch of restriction in some of the intake ports between the intake manifold and the runners (the middle section). I honestly believe that ANYONE that has a V6 Fiero, this should be their first improvement.

I don't know if you're planning on going with headers or performance manifolds, but going with hogged out stock exhaust manifolds will also greatly improve the performance.

As far as cam selections, the ARI Racing Phase-2 cam was pretty decent, that's what I went with. Directly from off-idle, it would smoke the rear tires at least 20 feet with my Th-125 and 235/60/15 Firestone Firehawk tires (that's what I have in the rear). It's strange that I could get so much wheel spin from a chinsy 3.1? I wasn't that happy with the Phase-2 cam though because all the power was focused in the lower RPM range. The engine would basically die after 4,000 rpms. Even with the restrictive intake neck, the Fiero's engine should still perform well at least to 5,000 rpms. My advice is to go with either the 2030 Crane Cam, or the H272 Cam. I chose the H272 personally along with the 1.52:1 Crane Rollers that I already had.

I went with .040 overbore Hyperutectic pistons for a total compression of 9.1:1 (also from ARI Racing).

Although somewhat unnecessary, I figure if you're going to do it, you might as well make it as reliable as you can and build it as best as you can. Ask the machine shop to knife-edge the counterweights on your new 3.1 crank, and balance the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc). It's been proven to GREATLY improve the overall reliability, fuel economy, and efficiency of an engine when the entire rotating assembly has been professionally balanced.

Also make sure you have your spring thickness and height properly adjusted for the cam you select.

You'll also want to go with 17lb injectors. You'll want to keep the "pintle" style injectors (like what's factory). Accel sells a set of nearly identical injectors that are 17 pounds. They sell them in sets of 4, 6 or 8 from Summit Racing.

As you may have realized already, going with the 3.1 crank will make your car neutrally balanced, so you'll want to make sure you get the 88 flywheel.

Also, are you keeping the Th-125 or switching to a 4-Speed automatic? Either way, you'll want to get a torque converter that's got a slightly higher stall speed. I ended up going with an FZ (I believe?) torque converter from an 87 4-Cyl Th-125 which apparently has a 150 higher stall speed (as recommended by Ed Parks). It definitely made the car feel more snappy. The old torque converter was such a slug.

Also, make sure that your temperature sensors, intake air temperature, etc... are new when you put it all back together.

Also, Rodney Dickman sells an air intake kit which allows you to keep the stock canister, but gives you a much improved passage through the water seperator area. Basically connecting directly from the scoop to the air filter canister without any sharp bends. I think it was like $21 bucks or something.

Good luck, FEEL FREE to e-mail me if you have any questions about my setup:

jasperst@dolphins.nfl.com

EDIT: There is a much newer (and better) distributor that is an OEM replacement for the one that came with our cars originally. It's identical in every way but has a more advanced "rotator"??? assembly. Fewer chances for a misfire, etc. I would look into getting that instead.

Hi,
- i would have ordered at ARI but they dont answer Mails !! i simply asked if they ship to germany but nothing ( some other people tried too )
- i start with ported stock exhaust system but ill build me an own true 2 tube system
- camshaft is crane 2030
- rockers will be 1:1.52

- i dont need other fuelinjectors than the stock V6 because the car will run on propane/buthane and this system has its own injectors
- have already an cold air intake fitted
- have performance valve springs and iam waiting for the Fierostore Stainless Valve set
- i like to stay with the TH125 because its a 87 duke TH125 with the longest final drive of all th125 ( 1:2.81 )

Stubby79

JAN 15, 11:14 PM

Any updates?