I guess I should rephrase my statement, the transmission TM settings are disabled, I didn't look into the fuel and ignition tables yet.
fieroguru
APR 10, 08:02 PM
Haven't touched the car in several days... been waiting on parts. In addition to the engine/transmission swap, this is pretty much a resurrection thread as this car has sat for years... The latest issue with it sitting dormant is that the fuel tank was heavily rusted. I didn't notice it at the time I swapped the fuel pump (though the pickup was crusty before I cleaned it) and it didn't really show up as an issue until I swapped back to the LS2 injectors... orange/brown gas coming out the fuel rail. It didn't do that the first time I swapped the injectors, but then again I didn't put much gas in it. As I started to fill it up further and drive it around sloshing the fuel, the gas picked up lots and lots of rust.
So I ordered a new fuel pump, filter/regulator and building a fuel injector cleaning tool so I can clean up both sets of injectors. While I have been waiting, the tank has been filled with almost 12 gallons of vinegar since Saturday. I pulled the pickup on Monday and it was clean again. The real nice part is the fuel level sender now goes from 0- 97 ohms and I couldn't get it down under 20 ohms before. It was given a nice coating of WD40 and now has the new fuel pump installed and ready to go back in the tank.
Hopefully, I will have it back running this weekend.
Trinten
APR 10, 08:50 PM
The 88 tank I had picked up that was sitting around had noticeable amount of rust in it when I took it out of the shed during my latest move. How can one determine when it's beyond recovering, save for holes rusting through? The exterior of the tank looks like it's in good shape. (if I can just fill it up with vinegar for a few days and dump it out, great!!)
fieroguru
APR 13, 09:40 PM
quote
Originally posted by Trinten:
The 88 tank I had picked up that was sitting around had noticeable amount of rust in it when I took it out of the shed during my latest move. How can one determine when it's beyond recovering, save for holes rusting through? The exterior of the tank looks like it's in good shape. (if I can just fill it up with vinegar for a few days and dump it out, great!!)
There is no good way to know the condition of the tank as visibility into it is limited to the openings around the baffle. Filling it with vinegar for 3-5 days will clean up most of the rust and let you know if the tank has any holes for about $35.
fieroguru
APR 13, 09:51 PM
The car is back running! Finished cleaning the fuel tank, installed the new fuel pump/filter, cleaned the LS2 injectors and installed them, reinstalled the tank, put in 11.5 gallons of 93 octane. Did another logging session and spun the engine to 5300 rpm and took it to 115 mph, max commanded torque was 210lb-ft with a max TPS of 52% and max Map at 82 kpa... so I wasn't really pushing it hard.
I need to swap the front wheels between the two cars as I don't trust the 7+ year old snow tires on the black car and the red one has less than 1 year old z-rated tires - wheels are the same between both cars. Once I do that, it should be time for a few WOT runs to see how it does.
I forgot how annoying it is when the head light covers pop up... going to have to do something about that
The new fuel pump is whisper quiet... just the way I like them.
Trinten
APR 13, 10:58 PM
I've seen people mention the headlight cover thing before, and know that a few places even sell a kit to make sure the covers don't tear themselves off when they pop up (does that actually happen??). I've never experienced that issue, regardless of speed or wind conditions. Does it happen because the springs for holding the covers down are worn, or do some covers sit slightly higher than flush with the hood, making it easier for air coming over the top of the hood to "hook" them?
Thank you for letting me know about the tank, and glad to hear you got everything cleaned and running again! Looking forward to some more videos from you, that's for certain.
dobey
APR 14, 09:44 AM
quote
Originally posted by Trinten: I've seen people mention the headlight cover thing before, and know that a few places even sell a kit to make sure the covers don't tear themselves off when they pop up (does that actually happen??). I've never experienced that issue, regardless of speed or wind conditions. Does it happen because the springs for holding the covers down are worn, or do some covers sit slightly higher than flush with the hood, making it easier for air coming over the top of the hood to "hook" them?
Air coming under the body builds up pressure under the front end of the car, which pushes the headlight covers in the hood, up. Typical ways to "fix" the problem are to add an extractor vent to the hood, or cut holes in a couple of places in the headlight areas, to relieve pressure and exhaust it back under the car, like fierosound did here: http://fierosound.com/moreM...iator%20Area%20Vents
And another option of course, is to go with molded/flush headlights instead of the pop-ups, but the pressure can still generate a small amount of front-end lift, so the venting would be wanted to reduce that as well.
Trinten
APR 14, 10:48 AM
Thanks Dobey, that explains it, I have extractors in my hood.
fieroguru
APR 14, 06:00 PM
Yeah, this car doesn't have a hood vent yet...
Here is an exhaust sound video from idle to 6500 rpm with slow increases... music, pure music!
I have a couple more driving ones uploading, so stay tuned!
fieroguru
APR 14, 08:02 PM
Here is one doing a steady 55 in 6th and slow acceleration back to 55:
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 04-26-2013).]
