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| ECM upgrade (1227730) for stock 2.8 (Page 74/107) |
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Darth Fiero
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SEP 17, 01:50 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by americasfuture2k:
doesnt this ecm retain the shift up light? i would like mine to come on, and if it is programmable on when to come on, i would like it if possible to come on for economy and then under WOT for it to come on as a shift light at just a bit shy of my rev limiter. since my engine digs deep into the red on my tach. or to come on at a good point to shift according to my power band. i could go on and on for this but ill leave it alone until more information is gathered on my engine and if the shift light idea is possible on the 7730.
oh ryan, is that speedo circuit is required?
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The speedo circuit has been addressed earlier in this thread -- please go back and find it as it was explained in great detail what can be done with it.
Yes this ECM can control the upshift light. I do know it works at part throttle but I'm not sure if the tuning software I have can make it work at full throttle as you want it to -- I will have to look into that.
-ryan
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americasfuture2k
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SEP 17, 04:01 PM
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D'oh! ill look for the info.
another question. and im sure this one has been on a few peoples mind, where to get new wire of the same color code? I.E. blk/wht and others of that nature. ------------------
1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor
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timgray
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SEP 17, 04:44 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by americasfuture2k:
i used some of that in the AIMD shop when i was stationed in corpus. but it was solder and not glue. is there any that is glue and solder? that would rock.
do you see any problems with the solder melting and the connections coming loose in the engine bay near the headers and/or the coolant lines?
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Solder melts at above 500-700 degrees depending on mixture of lead to tin. So finding a heat shrink with solder and glue willl be impossible. Solder melting near the engine is a non issue unless the car catches fire or the wire is laying directly in contact with an exaust pipe or manifold.
i strongly suggest Silver bearing solder due to it's higher corrosion resistance. and NEVER EVER use plumbing solder on electrical connections. use Electronic/wire solder with a non reactive flux. Plumbing solder has an ACID flux that will corrode that connection.
If you do not want to solder you can use these.
http://happyterminals.com/i...p?cPath=21_39_96_109
I use them on boats, bikes, cars. they work great IF you get a very good crimper. Using the crappy crimper you get at an auto store will not work. I use a ratcheting crimper. when you heat hem up they shrink down and ooze the sealing goo as well. making a very good connection.
Note: that link also has weatherpak connectors. If you want anything to disconnect, use those. they work awesome.[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 09-17-2008).]
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Darth Fiero
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SEP 17, 05:16 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by timgray:
If you do not want to solder you can use these.
http://happyterminals.com/i...p?cPath=21_39_96_109
I use them on boats, bikes, cars. they work great IF you get a very good crimper. Using the crappy crimper you get at an auto store will not work. I use a ratcheting crimper. when you heat hem up they shrink down and ooze the sealing goo as well. making a very good connection.
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Those work great but they are bulky. So if you are making a lot of wiring connections in a small area and try to use these types of connectors, you are going to end up with a pretty big bulk you have to deal with. BUT, these are very useful when trying to splice large wires such as the 8-10 ga size wires that run to the alternator and starter solenoid.
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Darth Fiero
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SEP 17, 05:20 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by americasfuture2k:
D'oh! ill look for the info.
another question. and im sure this one has been on a few peoples mind, where to get new wire of the same color code? I.E. blk/wht and others of that nature.
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Good luck with that. I haven't been able to find resonably priced "automotive grade" wiring except at the junkyard. I would stay away from the stuff autozone and the other parts stores sell because the last time I used this stuff the insulation on it had a relatively low melting point. The automotive grade wiring's insulation does not melt when you are soldering wires together, so it's pretty good stuff.
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rjblaze
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SEP 17, 05:55 PM
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Try painlesswiring.com for auto-grade wire. I have used their stuff in the past and never had any problems. I do believe Jeg's sells their wire also.
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Darth Fiero
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SEP 17, 06:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by rjblaze:
Try painlesswiring.com for auto-grade wire. I have used their stuff in the past and never had any problems. I do believe Jeg's sells their wire also. |
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found prices on it here: http://www.shopatron.com/in...02.0.6014.8463.0.0.0
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Blacktree
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SEP 17, 06:08 PM
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I would suggest using wire from another wiring harness. When I swapped in the V6, I kept the old 4-cyl wiring harness for this reason. It came in handy during the 7730 ECM swap.
I also wanted to ask about something. On the 7730 ECM, pin D12 is labeled "A/C pressure switch signal". And in the description it says "optional; hook up to high side A/C pressure switch; activates coolant fan output when A/C press is hi". Just to be thorough, I decided to hook up the output from the low-side pressure switch on my V5 compressor to this wire. That's the switch that activates the A/C clutch when the refrigerant pressure is high enough. Unfortunately, this confused the ECM. The ECM thought that the A/C was on all the time, even when it was off... which resulted in a high (and unstable) idle with the A/C off. After disconnecting that wire, everything worked fine. The radiator fan comes on with the A/C anyway, so the fan request line was redundant.
Since the fan request line is redundant, I don't plan to re-attach it. But I'm just curious what I was doing wrong. And maybe by posting this, I can save someone else from having to deal with this.
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americasfuture2k
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SEP 17, 11:41 PM
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one last thing before i go hit hay, how do you remove these kind of pins? i dont want to tug so hard it rips the wire out. i didnt find anything from searching.
http://i39.photobucket.com/...k/Fiero/DSC02755.jpg
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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 09-18-2008).]
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Blacktree
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SEP 18, 11:05 AM
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First of all, you have to open the back end of the connector, so the wires can slide out. Then, you insert a special tool (shaped like a hollow tube) over the end of the pin to release the tabs. If you can find some tubing (it'll need to be metal or hard plastic) in the right size, that may work too.
Here's what the special tool looks like: LINK (near the bottom of the page)
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