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ECM upgrade (1227730) for stock 2.8 (Page 73/107)

Darth Fiero

SEP 12, 04:49 PM

quote

Originally posted by Madess:

After the 7730 conversion, I have a battery drain now? Can anyone think of anything from the conversion that would cause that, I am still trying to trace it down.

What you should do is get yourself an ammeter (most digital volt-ohm meters have this function) that can read up to 5 - 10amp loads. but also display amp draw in at least hundredths of an amp. Hook the ammeter between your battery pos terminal and the battery pos cable. The ammeter should show the amount of amps being drawn from the battery. Normal draw for most cars with on-board computers should be less than 0.300 amps if I remember correctly. If you see more than this, then you should start pulling fuses/disconnecting devices until you find which circuit is drawing a load.

I have seen ECMs go bad and cause this problem (they fail to completely shut down). This problem could also be caused by something being incorrectly wired.

americasfuture2k

SEP 15, 08:56 AM

ok scratch my rush. jons somewhat sloppy wiring job for the 3500 w/ 7730 has turned in the other direction from good to WTF?? haha. fuel injection fuses randomly stopped popping, not sure how it all will work now, but i am going to test it all out after work. and i am currently building me a cleaner more practical 7730 conversion harness that will work on the 3500.

he had so many wires of the same color that it was hard to tell what was what when a problem arose. and then his method of connecting the wires was pretty bad too. IMO, it needs to be more than just twisted together and tapped a lil bit better. heat shrunk too. any tips for making a new harness? and the connections? i was thinking of twisting the wires together and soldering them, then covering the joints with liquid electrical tape, heat shrinking that, then covering it with electrical tape.

i guess thats the difference between an electronic tech and a mechanic. but he never intended to get rid of that car. so im going to build a harness i can understand.
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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 09-15-2008).]

Darth Fiero

SEP 15, 01:59 PM

quote

Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

ok scratch my rush. jons somewhat sloppy wiring job for the 3500 w/ 7730 has turned in the other direction from good to WTF?? haha. fuel injection fuses randomly stopped popping, not sure how it all will work now, but i am going to test it all out after work. and i am currently building me a cleaner more practical 7730 conversion harness that will work on the 3500.

he had so many wires of the same color that it was hard to tell what was what when a problem arose. and then his method of connecting the wires was pretty bad too. IMO, it needs to be more than just twisted together and tapped a lil bit better. heat shrunk too. any tips for making a new harness? and the connections? i was thinking of twisting the wires together and soldering them, then covering the joints with liquid electrical tape, heat shrinking that, then covering it with electrical tape.

i guess thats the difference between an electronic tech and a mechanic. but he never intended to get rid of that car. so im going to build a harness i can understand.

They make heat shrink tubing that has heat-activated adhesive sealer on the inside. When you heat the tubing up to shrink it, this "glue" activates and seals the connection. I use this stuff on critical connections or where connections are going to be subjected to exposure to moisture.

As far as the actual wiring connection, I strip off about 1/2 to 5/8" of the insulation on both wires I am connecting together. I then lay the wires end to end and overlap the stripped portions. I then twist them together as good as possible without producing a "bulk" area that the shrink tubing won't slide over. I then solder the connection and then slide the shrink tubing over that and apply heat to seal the connection.

-ryan

americasfuture2k

SEP 15, 03:34 PM

quote

Originally posted by Darth Fiero:

They make heat shrink tubing that has heat-activated adhesive sealer on the inside. When you heat the tubing up to shrink it, this "glue" activates and seals the connection. I use this stuff on critical connections or where connections are going to be subjected to exposure to moisture.

As far as the actual wiring connection, I strip off about 1/2 to 5/8" of the insulation on both wires I am connecting together. I then lay the wires end to end and overlap the stripped portions. I then twist them together as good as possible without producing a "bulk" area that the shrink tubing won't slide over. I then solder the connection and then slide the shrink tubing over that and apply heat to seal the connection.

-ryan

i used some of that in the AIMD shop when i was stationed in corpus. but it was solder and not glue. is there any that is glue and solder? that would rock.

do you see any problems with the solder melting and the connections coming loose in the engine bay near the headers and/or the coolant lines?

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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

americasfuture2k

SEP 16, 07:33 AM

any suggestion for all of us on underhood tape? jon used some kind of heat sheilding that obviously wasnt ment for wiring harnesses. then wrapped in header wrap. didnt seem to work too well.

Darth Fiero

SEP 16, 02:20 PM

quote

Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

i used some of that in the AIMD shop when i was stationed in corpus. but it was solder and not glue. is there any that is glue and solder? that would rock.

do you see any problems with the solder melting and the connections coming loose in the engine bay near the headers and/or the coolant lines?

I've never had a solder joint melt in any engine compartment. But then again I do take steps to protect the wiring when near high heat sources such as the exhaust. The coolant lines don't get hot enough to melt solder.

Darth Fiero

SEP 16, 02:25 PM

quote

Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

any suggestion for all of us on underhood tape? jon used some kind of heat sheilding that obviously wasnt ment for wiring harnesses. then wrapped in header wrap. didnt seem to work too well.

You CAN use regular PVC electrical tape. But this stuff is usually only rated for 176degF max temps. So if you use it you should put wire loom over your connections/wires (which you should do anyway). There is higher temp electrical tape out there but it is pretty expensive. Personally I've never had a problem with the regulator electrical tape as long as I cover all my wires with wire loom.

Speaking of wire loom, make sure you get the good stuff (should have a green or blue stripe). The cheap stuff autozone sells will melt in the engine compartment. The stuff I use is rated to 275 deg F and is flame resistant. You can get this stuff as well as pretty much anything else you need for your electrical work here: http://www.wiringproducts.com/

americasfuture2k

SEP 16, 06:53 PM

thanks for the link, and the many others you have provided me. maybe it was just jons way he taped everything up that has just had me worried about a lot of this. and we have been using that cheap loom from autozone. one section of it melted against the coolant line going to the motor.

pontiackid86

SEP 16, 10:17 PM

it its not to much to ask could you send me some instructions on how to do this?

americasfuture2k

SEP 17, 09:14 AM

doesnt this ecm retain the shift up light? i would like mine to come on, and if it is programmable on when to come on, i would like it if possible to come on for economy and then under WOT for it to come on as a shift light at just a bit shy of my rev limiter. since my engine digs deep into the red on my tach. or to come on at a good point to shift according to my power band. i could go on and on for this but ill leave it alone until more information is gathered on my engine and if the shift light idea is possible on the 7730.

oh ryan, is that speedo circuit is required?