

 |
| Northstar rebuild: Will style (Page 71/119) |
|
Will
|
SEP 17, 10:20 AM
|
|
The Fiero manual trans right side axle, when fitted with the large pattern (27 spline) outer CV joint has an collapsed length of 39 1/4".
The following combination: -Type II IMS -*Left* inner CV tulip (female spline) from Pontiac 6000 (or other A-body) with 4 speed automatic -*Right* side tripod, axle shaft, 27 spline outer CV from Pontiac 6000 (or other A-body) with 4 speed automatic and HD brakes
has a collapsed length of 39 3/8"
Score. Axle problem solved.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-17-2012).]
|
|
|
Will
|
SEP 26, 02:07 PM
|
|
Ordered this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-1877ERL/
I'll use it with the parts washer to push solvent through my PurePower filter backwards in order to clean it more quickly and efficiently than I was able to the first time.
|
|
|
Will
|
SEP 30, 10:56 PM
|
|
|
|
Will
|
OCT 08, 12:38 PM
|
|
|
LOOOONG weekend, but the car's back on the road with a functional Type II IMS, CS130 alternator and a wide band bung added to the X-pipe.
|
|
|
Will
|
OCT 08, 03:57 PM
|
|
Continuing development of the Type II IMS axle bracket, as well as a pic of the final assembly of bracket, alxe, seal retainer, etc. Installed pic will have to wait for another day.



Size difference between the CS144 and CS130 alternators. To fix the accidental mounting center mismatch between new and old, I took a page from my own book, borrowing from the installation of a 282 to the Northstar and how to deal with the mismatched bellhousing bolt.


The car is back on the road as of last night. I was not able to make any progress on the heater lines, but they seem to be holding water for now. I dug through my stash of coolant and heater pipes and was able to find what I think is the engine bay section of the '86 heater return pipe, but I was not able to find the right side '86 coolant pipe or the full set of '86 heater pipes.
I also did some work on the pan to X-pipe heat shield, but no pics yet.
|
|
|
Will
|
OCT 26, 04:35 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:
Have you made much consideration to the heat of the stainless crossover to the aluminum oil pan. I'd be slightly concered about cooking the oil once the car is parked and shutdown, since the pipe will retain heat for some time, and the pan will easily transfer heat to your oil. personally, I would use a piece of adhesive heat shield on the pan near the pipe. |
|
I am working on a heat shield... I have it such that it will bolt to the pan, but I'd like to extend the other end in order to pick up one of the dust shield bolts on the Getrag bellhousing.
Shutdown isn't a problem, as we discussed above. What I see happening is that the temps (oil temp inferred from idle oil pressure) stay fine for highway drives, but it doesn't take long for the oil to heat soak and idle oil pressure to drop once the car is in stop and go traffic. Coolant temp also comes up a bit, but stays controlled.
|
|
|
madcurl
|
OCT 27, 01:03 PM
|
|
Did you notice any improvments using this oil filter in your application?------------------
"Friends don't let their friends drive stock."
|
|
|
Will
|
OCT 28, 11:18 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by madcurl:
Did you notice any improvments using this oil filter in your application?
|
|
I bought it to reduce the risk of blowing the engine up during a hard break-in. Hard break-in is the best for the engine because it results in the best wear-in among the rings, grooves and bores. However, due to the high RPM involves, the engine oil pump is at its maximum flow rate. Paper and cotton filters can't keep up without experiencing excessive pressure drop and opening the bypass valve. The open bypass valve *could* allow break-in debris from the ring grooves, rings or bores to be pumped directly into the main bearings and cause problems. The stainless steel mesh filters do not filter as finely as the paper/cotton filters, but DO have the flow capacity to handle the Northstar's 12 gallons per minute of oil flow without lifting the bypass valve.
Soo... My engine didn't blow up during break-in, and I have confidence that it's capable of running for extended periods at high RPM... I like it.
However, it *DOES* need to be cleaned with each oil change. That's a PITA... I'm setting up for a quick/easy way of doing that, but not quite there yet.
I blew up an axle at the drag strip Thursday evening, or else I'd be working on the filter today.
|
|
|
Will
|
OCT 30, 10:48 AM
|
|
|
|
ericjon262
|
OCT 30, 06:49 PM
|
|
|
bummer on the axle, I'm guessing this was 1/8 mile by the time slip?
|
|

 |
|