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| Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 7/102) |
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GSXRBOBBY
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SEP 23, 04:23 AM
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cptsnoopy, I sat in the garage for a little while last night "could sleep, bad tooth" and I did deside a one piece bar and a 3" X 3" with a 1/8" wall is what I am going with, I think anything thicker would not allow me to get a good strong weld on and like you said it would be so much heavier than really needed. But I am sure on just using a 1 piece bar to make it stronger.
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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net
My build thread
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Will
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SEP 24, 12:31 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
thanks for your input. I think the wall thickness is .125" but I will have to check on Friday when I get back home. my concern is that the cradle may be able to twist near the front adding twisting loads to the front cradle mounts on the chassis. I don't know if that is a problem or not. It appears the cradle is built much stronger across the rear cross member which is much closer to the rear suspension. maybe that is where all the strength needs to be anyway.
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Are you saying that you're worried about the off center location of the engine mount pulling up harder on the right side of the cradle than the left?  that is completely a non-issue.
One important thing that it appears you have not done, however is brace the remainder of the stock cross member to the new cross member. Gotta support that trans mount better. ------------------
Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving and American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future
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cptsnoopy
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SEP 24, 10:43 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: cptsnoopy, I sat in the garage for a little while last night "could sleep, bad tooth" and I did deside a one piece bar and a 3" X 3" with a 1/8" wall is what I am going with, I think anything thicker would not allow me to get a good strong weld on and like you said it would be so much heavier than really needed. But I am sure on just using a 1 piece bar to make it stronger.
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definitely a good idea. several of the swaps that I have read about use that or a very similar style of crossmember and they seem to like it. It should be a good size for adding mounts to if you decide to support the engine from the head like the stock cadillac mount.
| quote | | Originally posted by Will: Are you saying that you're worried about the off center location of the engine mount pulling up harder on the right side of the cradle than the left? that is completely a non-issue.
One important thing that it appears you have not done, however is brace the remainder of the stock cross member to the new cross member. Gotta support that trans mount better. |
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actually I am worried since my passenger side lower mounts will tend to twist the right rail inward that it may need more support from the front crossmember to help negate that effect. It may be nothing to worry about, I just don't have any idea how much twisting force will occur when I hit bumps and stuff like that. If it does twist, how bad would that be for the forward cradle mounts that are welded to the spaceframe? maybe they are plenty strong, I just don't have a good feel for what they can handle. If I am am able to support the engine front and rear using mounts near the drivers side of the heads then that should help minimize any twisting on the right side rail... you are right about the stock front crossmember not being supported. I was going to wait until I have a good idea about the exhaust routing and then tie the two front crossmembers together with gussets or some other type of bracing.
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cptsnoopy
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SEP 25, 12:05 AM
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just a quick update: the idler pulley was too small at 76mm. very close to working though. I found an idler pulley that is 109mm and put it on instead. as luck would have it no changes had to be made to the mount. now there is actually a belt around the mess... since it looks like it will work this way the rest of the alternator brackets will be made next. the tensioner pulley mount has a little flex to it when the belt is put on so a gusset will be added to prevent that.
 [This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
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GSXRBOBBY
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SEP 25, 12:35 AM
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Go Snoopy go ------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net
My build thread
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Will
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SEP 25, 09:09 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
actually I am worried since my passenger side lower mounts will tend to twist the right rail inward that it may need more support from the front crossmember to help negate that effect. It may be nothing to worry about, I just don't have any idea how much twisting force will occur when I hit bumps and stuff like that. If it does twist, how bad would that be for the forward cradle mounts that are welded to the spaceframe? maybe they are plenty strong, I just don't have a good feel for what they can handle. If I am am able to support the engine front and rear using mounts near the drivers side of the heads then that should help minimize any twisting on the right side rail... you are right about the stock front crossmember not being supported. I was going to wait until I have a good idea about the exhaust routing and then tie the two front crossmembers together with gussets or some other type of bracing.
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Don't forget that the stock V6, which is only a tiny bit lighter than the engine you're installing, has its forward mount cantilevered off the side of the cradle rail as well... I don't think it will be an issue at all. ------------------
Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving and American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future
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Will
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SEP 25, 09:16 AM
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| quote | | Originally posted by cptsnoopy: just a quick update: the idler pulley was too small at 76mm. very close to working though. I found an idler pulley that is 109mm and put it on instead. as luck would have it no changes had to be made to the mount. now there is actually a belt around the mess... since it looks like it will work this way the rest of the alternator brackets will be made next. the tensioner pulley mount has a little flex to it when the belt is put on so a gusset will be added to prevent that. 
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I guess there wasn't a slightly short belt available to work with the 76mm idler? What length belt are you using? ------------------
Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving and American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future
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cptsnoopy
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SEP 25, 03:18 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by Will:
I guess there wasn't a slightly short belt available to work with the 76mm idler? What length belt are you using?
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when the 76mm was on there a 72" belt looked just right. but even though I checked clearances with a nylon strap the belt was just barely rubbing on the bottom of the tensioner. (the belt was a bit thicker than the strap) the pulley was not quite big enough to provide acceptable clearance both over the top and under the tensioner. going to the 109mm required a 74" belt and it clears under the tensioner by about 1/8" and has lots of clearance over the top. since the bottom part is so close the the tensioner wheel i don't think it can rub even with the belt moving back and forth a little. [This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 09-25-2004).]
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cptsnoopy
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SEP 25, 03:22 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by Will:
Don't forget that the stock V6, which is only a tiny bit lighter than the engine you're installing, has its forward mount cantilevered off the side of the cradle rail as well... I don't think it will be an issue at all.
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thanks for that info! the truth is i have not looked at the mounts on a stock v6... even though i have one outside.. dohhh...
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cptsnoopy
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SEP 26, 01:12 AM
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