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| ECM upgrade (1227730) for stock 2.8 (Page 62/107) |
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Richjk21
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MAY 25, 05:24 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Mister:
Hi all,
Looking to buy the 87-88 4cyl ECM Tray
If you got it please PM me. Payment via PayPal
Will offer upto $20 for the tray including shipping (USPS) to Canada.
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lol.... yeah ... me too
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Mister
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MAY 27, 04:32 PM
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Richjk21
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MAY 27, 05:23 PM
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Thanks
Rich[This message has been edited by Richjk21 (edited 05-28-2008).]
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Pyrthian
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JUN 12, 11:39 AM
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finally finished my 7730 swap (along with other changes) - and, when I tried to start it - no fire up. I am not getting fuel. hooked up a fuel pressure guage. when I first turn it on - I get a weak 30 psi. if I drain off pressure - it wont build back. It seems the fuel pump will turn on for a tiny bit, when the key is first turned - but thats it, no more. is there a change in how the fuel pump is run?
edit - update: put power to pin G on the ALDL - and get my 40PSI, solid. still not starting tho... 
tho - now I remember that I dont know if this ECM was from a DIS or Distributer motor....any way to visually tell? I removed the distributer, and am trying to use DIS.[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 06-12-2008).]
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Darth Fiero
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JUN 12, 02:18 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Pyrthian:
finally finished my 7730 swap (along with other changes) - and, when I tried to start it - no fire up. I am not getting fuel. hooked up a fuel pressure guage. when I first turn it on - I get a weak 30 psi. if I drain off pressure - it wont build back. It seems the fuel pump will turn on for a tiny bit, when the key is first turned - but thats it, no more. is there a change in how the fuel pump is run?
edit - update: put power to pin G on the ALDL - and get my 40PSI, solid. still not starting tho...
tho - now I remember that I dont know if this ECM was from a DIS or Distributer motor....any way to visually tell? I removed the distributer, and am trying to use DIS.
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The fuel pump power system is handled the same way when using the 7730 ECM vs. the stock Fiero ECM. It sounds to me like you might have a wiring problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 sec when you first key on the ignition. Then the fuel pump should run when the engine is cranked because the ECM should be seeing a reference pulse from the ignition module. If the fuel pump is NOT running during engine cranking, then either the computer isn't receiving the reference pulse or there is a wiring problem and the computer is not powering up properly (check power and ground feeds to the ECM).
If you have switched to DIS on this car, pull all of the plug wires off the coil pack and have someone crank the engine over while you watch the coil pack. You should see a spark jump across all coil towers sequentially as the engine cranks. If you see no spark then either you have a wiring problem at or to the coil pack, a bad crank sensor, or a power supply issue to the system.
-ryan
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Pyrthian
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JUN 12, 03:20 PM
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well, went to the junkyard, and got a "chip" - the whole blue thingy from a known DIS car. swapped it in, and now I get the fuel pressure as expected. I hear the pump for a second or 2
when I bleed off the pressure tho, it doesnt build back.
and, did check for spark...none......
the tach bounces when I crank - which I am guessing means at least part of the crank sensor & ignition module are working, since the signal is made in the igntion module, from the crank sensor data.
the "check engine" light works
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Darth Fiero
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JUN 12, 05:41 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Pyrthian:
well, went to the junkyard, and got a "chip" - the whole blue thingy from a known DIS car. swapped it in, and now I get the fuel pressure as expected. I hear the pump for a second or 2
when I bleed off the pressure tho, it doesnt build back.
and, did check for spark...none......
the tach bounces when I crank - which I am guessing means at least part of the crank sensor & ignition module are working, since the signal is made in the igntion module, from the crank sensor data.
the "check engine" light works |
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If you are not getting spark then STOP. You have a problem either with the ignition module, ignition coils, crank sensor, or wiring going to any of these devices. You must find and repair the cause of the no-spark issue before doing further diagnosis with the ECM.
-ryan
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Pyrthian
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JUN 12, 06:07 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
If you are not getting spark then STOP. You have a problem either with the ignition module, ignition coils, crank sensor, or wiring going to any of these devices. You must find and repair the cause of the no-spark issue before doing further diagnosis with the ECM.
-ryan |
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I've been concentrating on getting fuel. at the point where I dont think any injectors are firing. got fuel pressure, but, dont smell fuel in the exhaust or on plugs when I remove them. after finding popped INJ fuses, replaced them - they stayed good, but still smell no fuel. gonna be a quite a fun troubleshooting weekend....
also thinking if the tach is bouncing around 300-600 while cranking - that the crank sensor, and ignition module are at least getting pulses. have not had a 2nd person to completely verify the no spark. also, have verified power to the DIS block.
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Darth Fiero
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JUN 12, 06:17 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Pyrthian:
I've been concentrating on getting fuel. at the point where I dont think any injectors are firing. got fuel pressure, but, dont smell fuel in the exhaust or on plugs when I remove them. after finding popped INJ fuses, replaced them - they stayed good, but still smell no fuel. gonna be a quite a fun troubleshooting weekend....
also thinking if the tach is bouncing around 300-600 while cranking - that the crank sensor, and ignition module are at least getting pulses. have not had a 2nd person to completely verify the no spark. also, have verified power to the DIS block. |
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If there is no spark, then there's a good chance the reference pulse isn't being sent to the ECM from the ignition module to tell it when to fire the injectors. Hence the reason why I recommend you find the cause to the no-spark issue and repair that first before anything else. I wouldn't worry about the bouncing tach at the moment either; that could be caused by a number of electrical issues or even a bad ignition module.
First thing you need to do is get the spark working.[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 06-12-2008).]
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Pyrthian
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JUN 12, 10:35 PM
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ok, sounds good. I am pretty confident about the wiring, so - can I just take the whole coil pack assembly out, and take it somewhere for testing? is it possible that if I had the wrong chip - like for a distributer, or a 4 cyl with TBI - that it may have cooked the ignition module? the popped INJ fuses worries me also - but could that be from all 6 being on one line now, instead of the 2 seperate banks from the original Fiero ECM - beings it is a dbl load now?
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