Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 62/102)
cptsnoopy JUL 08, 09:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by BMTFIERO:

This a "Whatcha been doing" BUMP



Mostly hiding from the HEAT!!!

I received two different filters to have options on how to get clean and cool air to the intake plenum. I think I'll go with the racing cone filter as it flows double what the other filter can. It can also be placed in a 4.75" tube which makes it ideal for this setup. I am just now working on getting the material figured out. I was thinking aluminum to match the rest of the system but now I am thinking black plastic pipe (would you believe it is from my leaf vacuum?) that happens to be 4.5"ID on one end and about 4.8"ID on the other. I just need an elbow to get it pointed up to the plenum and then figure out how to seal it all up. My plan is to use exhaust heat wrap to insulate the plastic tubing. I hope to accomplish two things by doing that. First, it should keep the air temp reasonable from the stock scoop area and also protect the plastic tubing from melting in the engine bay heat. I don't know if that will work but I am going to give it a try.

K&N racing "cone" filter. 4-7/8" outside diameter at the large end and 2" diameter at the small end. Flows just over 1000 CFM



K&N filter: 6" OD large end, 5" OD small end, 5" long and 4.5" ID flange. Flows around 500 CFM



Charlie
cptsnoopy JUL 16, 11:55 PM
Seems like getting the final pieces together is taking forever. I mocked up the intake using plastic tubing. Looks like 18 inches of 4.5" ID silicone tubing will be used for the filter housing and it will stick through the left side of the frame about 6". A reducer to 3.5" will be needed then a couple of 45's for an offset and finally a 90 to bring the air up into the plenum. Only $220 worth of silicone tubing and parts...
The stuff is shipped, just waiting on its arrival to see if I can cobble it all together.

Charlie
ShaddowGt JUL 18, 03:49 AM
awesome work man, id love to see this thing in the flesh some time. hope you finish it soon

pm sent
cptsnoopy JUL 24, 11:03 PM
Thanks ShaddowGT!

This is one part that like the wiring, it seems to take longer than it should. I ended up mocking up the cold air intake using plastic pipe and plastic elbows. Afterwords, I ordered online the silicone pipe,elbows,joiners and clamps that I thought I would need. I finally got around to cutting them down to fit. Here are a couple of pics.

This is a view of the filtered air end of the 4.5" pipe. You can see that it is squeezed a tad as it goes through the side of the space frame but from what I can tell, there will be plenty of flow through there. (at least 750cfm)


This is a further away shot of the same thing.


It's hard to tell from the photo but there is a 4.5" to 3.5" reducer installed now.


Elbows added.


Base of plenum added.


Intake side of the filter cartridge.


Charlie

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 07-24-2009).]

cptsnoopy JUL 30, 02:23 AM
68 3mm screws later, the intake plenum is roughed in. Just need to try it out on the road as I think it will be hitting the decklid from lack of clearance. If it somehow works out, then I will see about painting it.
cptsnoopy AUG 01, 06:17 AM
I spent several hours tonight pondering what to do about the front brakes. I am using the 12" corvette rotor upgrade set that GSXRBobby made for a bunch of us and it was known at the time that the front calipers/brake lines would interfere when the wheels were at full turn. The brake line hits the upper control arm and the upper spring perch. The upper caliper slide hits the upper spring perch. I would have to grind down three different areas to get enough clearance to run the setup without changing the location of the calipers. This is in addition to grinding the lower tip of the lower control arm to keep it from rubbing on the inner edge of the 12" brake rotor. I have decided to either purchase a couple of the brackets that "Fieroaddiction" has designed or try to fab up a pair myself. It appears that putting the caliper back to the horizontal position like stock will address the clearance issues.




If anyone has the Fieroaddiction 12" inch brake setup on their 88, can you please post whether or not there are any issues with clearance with the front brakes and suspension?

I have spent several hours searching PFF tonight for answers to that question and I have not seen a definite answer.

Charlie

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 08-01-2009).]

Russ544 AUG 02, 01:04 AM
Don't know about other designs as II made my own brackets, but I'm using stock 88 hoses and had no clearance issues at all on the fronts. same brackets work front and rear but the rears are flipped over.


lookin good there !
Russ
cptsnoopy AUG 02, 03:32 AM
Thank you for the info Russ!

I went out and ran the suspension up and down a couple of times with the wheels turned all the way to each side and both right and left interfere with the upper control arm and the upper spring perch. I then took the adapter off and rolled the caliper to the horizontal position (like stock but further away from center) and it clears fine. Also the stock hose will still work so I am going to try and make the adapters that only move the caliper out but do not offset it up or down. It will require counter sinking the bolts for the adapter/knuckle but it should be work fine. Finding the counter-sunk 12mm bolts will be the hardest part I imagine.

So what's the latest? Busy working or busy playing?

Charlie
fieroguru AUG 02, 09:39 AM
I am doing the same - making my own 88 caliper brackets to get away from the caliper/upper A-arm interferance with my current WCF set.

The stock 88 rotor measured 10.432" and vette one was 12.007". To keep the rotor pads in the same relative position the new hole distance should be 0.7875". The stock caliper distance has the edge of the brake pad inset from the edge of the rotor, so you can go out further if you would like. I pushed the pad out flush with the edge of the vette rotor and came up with 0.947" so anywhere in between would be fine... I am going to mock up some at .925" and see how it works out.

McMaster Carr sells a M12-1.75 x 25mm 10.9 rated countersunk bolts for about $7 for a pack of 10.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91294a354/=30h8rk

I am still looking for a lower cost counter sink bit, the ones in McMasterCarr are about $32 for a 1" bit (the head on the above bolts is 24mm in diamter). I might just end up using one from work.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-02-2009).]

cptsnoopy AUG 02, 03:20 PM
fieroguru,

THANKYOU! THANKYOU! THANKYOU!

That is exactly the info I needed. I will start with .85" to have a little slop on each side of the pad.

I will pop for the countersinking bit when I order the bolts. If you want I'll send it to you for your adapters.

I also plan on using cold rolled steel instead of Al.

Charlie