88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 60/69)
Tony Kania OCT 18, 12:15 AM
I have not poked my head into this thread lately. Very nice work! It is so very gratifying to do it yourself.
josef644 OCT 18, 09:37 AM
Thanks Tony. As of today 6016 views. 2500 while it was in General Chat before it was moved to CZ are not shown.
josef644 OCT 19, 01:27 PM
I think I have located the electrical problem. I am loosing power at C 203 "B". This is the power supply for the fuel pump. it is supposed to be hot at all times. I left the dome lights on yesterday, and have the charger on the battery right now.
josef644 OCT 24, 02:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Went out in the garage during half time and removed this piece. The nipple for the heater return is leaking:

the leak

Gonna find me a shop that can weld stainless steel one day this week.




I removed all of the above again after having it welded up. Still leaks. I got a 24 inch piece of 88 return side pipe, with the nipple for the heater return, in the mail from Mstangsbeware a few days ago. I cut off the leaking part, and used a small ball peen hammer to put a small amount of flair on the extreme ends.
New piece

Flaired ends:

Old leaking piece:


I'll get all of these back on the car tomorrow and burp the cooling system once more.


When I was working on the car a few days ago I tried the headdlights to make sure that they still worked OK. This started a cycle of dead battery, and low to almost a dead battery . After unplugging the two headdlights motors, I don't hear any more of the clickety clicking that I hadn't noticed before. So I hooked the battery back up, and will get a reading tomorrow AM.

Lots to do tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-24-2010).]

josef644 OCT 25, 08:31 PM
I am really frustrated with this car. I was trying to find the reason that the engine would not run when the console was in the car. Thought I had it located. BUT now I am having a problem with the battery going dead.

I do not know if this is related or not. Traced some of this to the headlight motors. I get a click from both light when I connect the neg battery cable. Unplug these and the drain is still at .50 amp. The battery looses about one half volt overnight when the cables are connected. Unplugged the head light switch to test it, and the roller knob for the instrument light brightness detached it self from the mounting bezel. Glue just cut loose.

My meter would not work in the 10 amp protected mode. So I borrowed one from a neighbor. Blew the fuse this evening in this borrowed one one. I am gonna go to Livingston tomorrow to try and get some new small 10 amp fuses. I was able to get a new 10 amp auto type fuse in mine, but it reads 4.25amps draw not even hooked up to anything. I think mine is just old and undependable.

I just wanted the console installed and got all of this to boot.

Burned the meat on the Q pit this evening. Whole day has turned to Ship!

Enjoyed a nice baked potato, mushrooms and salad though. Might just quit eating meat !!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-25-2010).]

josef644 OCT 28, 12:13 PM
I have narrowed the battery drain down to the BAT fuse circuits. This is the radio memory, courtesy lights, lighter and horn relay feed. I have a suspicion that the Vibe radio is mashing and causing a problem where it touches the harness at its rear.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-28-2010).]

josef644 OCT 29, 01:40 PM
I found that my Vibe Radio is causing the battery drain. I removed it from the car. Back to work on the car.

Ordered 4 sections of 48" pieces of clear 1/8" heat shrink. I am gonna remove my harness and make a new one that looks like it wasn't made by a kindergarden student.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-30-2010).]

josef644 OCT 30, 03:20 PM
I removed the wiring harness out of the car this morning for re building in a clean logical manner. I have decided to clean up the mess at the ECM before I go any further on anything else. I ordered 16 foot of heat shrink from McMaster-Carr, about $10.00 shipped
I want mine to look like this picture I stole from M_M's wiring thread


I am going down the line on each ECM connector marking the loose ends for reconnecting. If a wire stays inside the cabin , like speedo or VATS bypass, I am pulling them all to the dash side of the connector. I am gonna insert the green first, lay out the wires, then the top black, then the lower black one.

Green one ready for reinstall
josef644 OCT 31, 04:02 PM
Removed the Deville radio from my S-15 GMC this morning, and have put the Delco that came in it back in the dash. I had used an adapter to fit the Deville radio, and one for the Vibe radio. Unplugged it from my GMC. I just need to remove the pins from the two and insert them into the proper holes in the connector. All the wires are marked on the connectors.

I finished my two black ECM connnectors during the Cowboys Football Game, and did the C203 connector. I am ready as soon as my heat shrink gets here.

Pinned the Radio connectors, and hooked up my radio. I will do a amperage draw test on it tomorrow.

Amp draw is so small that it does not even register on my meter. I trashed the Deville radio in favor of a Chevy truck one that I had . It sounded much better and the RF spearker would not work with the Deville radio in the car.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-12-2010).]

josef644 NOV 03, 06:10 PM
I have the whole harness on my kitchen table, making it neat and removing excess wire from sensor connections. I hope to be finished up with this tomorrow.
I have about 1/2 of this now: Picture stolen from M_M's wiring thread.

This harness does not include the C500. I am thinking his is a stick shift also. I will have extra wires for the transmission, neutral safety switch and connectors
I am gonna post a picture here of my progress tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2010).]