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| And now for something completely different (Page 6/21) |
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ThatFieroKid
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APR 14, 08:27 PM
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wolf63
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APR 16, 12:03 AM
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my old rail buggy had cutting brakes! loved em in the sand and yeah, pretty sure they're illegal on street cars. only problem with using them as an e-brake is if the hydraulics go down you dont have a manual override system.
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artworks
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APR 16, 08:20 AM
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Risk is a four letter word. You're right about the potential hydraulic loss and no mechanical backup, but technically they're supposed to be parking brakes, not emergency brakes. I definately need to post a close up of the lockout arm I fabricated. Hopefully it will pass inspection (if it ever comes to that).
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artworks
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APR 16, 09:33 AM
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I think I've found the gauges I want to install in the car. I want to go with the cockpit look. I don't know if they'll fit in the stock pods. I need to do some "ciphering"
 [This message has been edited by artworks (edited 07-14-2017).]
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artworks
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APR 22, 05:35 PM
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Fastest gauge install ever - I enlarged the color copy to full size, cut it out and taped the gauges in place where I'm thinking they should go. Now that's cheesy![This message has been edited by artworks (edited 07-14-2017).]
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artworks
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APR 22, 05:41 PM
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This is the cutting brake with the locking bar installed. By pulling the pin, pulling up on the brake levers and putting the pin back in the second hole, they become a parking brake. Time for plumbing the lines.[This message has been edited by artworks (edited 07-15-2017).]
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mwhite
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APR 24, 12:08 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by artworks:
More photos - We finished the rear ladder bar and it works great!
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Hey, I thought this suspension design was a neat way to solve the McPherson strut to double A arm suspension conversion, but something about it was bugging me. I finally figured it out. The lower mount point being an A arm will cause a binding issue when the suspension goes through its full travel of motion. Because of your long arm design your lower ball joint will want to move frontwards and backwards as the suspension travels. You may want to look at changing the lower mount to a single bar, with a hiem joint at both ends, it would free up the motion at the bottom of the knuckle. The suspension becomes just a little more like a dune buggies trailing arm suspension.
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artworks
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APR 24, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for the input. I'll take off the shock and look closely for binding points as the wheel moves through its range of motion. [This message has been edited by artworks (edited 04-24-2012).]
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artworks
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APR 24, 08:24 AM
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I need some help running the serpentine belt. Has anyone seen photos or sketches of the best way to run the Northstar belt without the power steering pulley but with the A/C compressor in place?
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artworks
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APR 24, 09:15 PM
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Mwhite, you are technically correct. I went back through my AutoCad drawings this evening, after having taken off the rear wheel and shock to test the range of motion for the suspension system. The AutoCad plan shows that the ball joint would need to move forward by about 1/8" as the suspension moves up or down through its range of motion (about 3" either way off center). But practicaly speaking the suspension moves up and down fine. I think the reason is the rubber bushings on the original Cadillac lower arm - they're permitting the required movement. I moved the spindle up and down easily by hand and didn't feel any binding. Thanks for your comment. I'm sure you're right that the hot ticket would be a lower bar with a heim joint.
Here are two photos showing the axle going through its range of motion. With the shock and spring back on I needed to use a floor jack to raise the spindle, but there was very little effort. Total range of motion is about 6"[This message has been edited by artworks (edited 07-15-2017).]
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