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| Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade (Page 6/13) |
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fierosound
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FEB 23, 11:43 AM
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tstroud
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FEB 24, 10:40 PM
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I got a new Xtant 2.2 on ebay for $129.00 delivered. I guess I can either just use one channel or I can bridge it and be careful with it.
It will do until I find a 1.1i and then I can move the 2.2 to my GTO project.------------------
'84 SE 350 5 speed (isuzu)
'69 GTO 400 4 speed (eternal project)
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carbon
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MAY 26, 12:35 PM
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On sale at Crutchfield for 59.99:
JVC KS-AX3002
65 watts RMS x 2 in stereo or
130 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
Not discontinued or hard to find 
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82-T/A [At Work]
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MAR 09, 03:56 PM
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fierosound
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MAR 14, 08:45 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off?
I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?
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I originally sealed the box to try it out, as the port is tuned to the original subwoofer. Later I came across some information from Tim.
Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 2" of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.
I just finished tuning up one of these to match that box. Using the port tube with a bit of the poly fill in the tube helps to reduce velocity in the tube and makes it possible for you to tune it to the enclosure and get 35% more bass from it and make it sound better. - Tim
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I reinstalled the tube with this modification and it works "as advertised" - deeper bass. 
I readjusted the amplifier gain to balance the system again. Thanks Tim...[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-18-2015).]
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fierosound
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MAR 29, 09:24 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by americasfuture2k:
just found this while looking through my latest parts express catalog...
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Sounds like an ideal alternative to the hard-to-find Xtant 1.1i amp.
Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp $14.80!!
Product Description
Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp
Offered originally as a dealer installed option for a specific manufacturer's original equipment sound systems, this compact Kicker subwoofer amplifier will improve the performance of almost any stock mobile stereo. The amp's features include a mono high level input (line level inputs are not included), 100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm power output, and a 150 Hz @12 dB/octave fixed low pass filter. Includes OEM connector (not shown). Dimensions: 3-1/2" H x 6" W x 1-1/4" D
Amplifier Installation Instructions
This 100 watt subwoofer amplifier is turned on by and receives its musical signal from either the left or right speaker wires (high level). It is powered by the vehicle's factory radio and protected by the vehicle's factory radio fuse. Because most low frequency signals are applied equally to both channels (mono), only one input is required. The amplifier senses the input signal's DC offset relative to ground and should turn on when the factory radio is turned on.
The following four connections from the Kicker sub amplifier are to be made to the vehicle's factory radio harness:
1- The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle's audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp.
2- The black wire connects to chassis ground.
3- The solid green wire connects to either the left or right positive speaker wire (either front or rear).
4- The green/yellow wire connects to either the left or right negative speaker wire (either front or rear).[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-29-2011).]
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IXSLR8
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APR 02, 01:59 AM
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Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.
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fierosound
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APR 10, 11:00 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by IXSLR8:
Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes. |
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Excellent! I'm sure we're all waiting to see how this works.
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Benja
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APR 19, 10:10 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by LZeitgeist:
Quoted and repeated 'cuz I'm curious too...
Does the slider control still affect the amount of bass generated like it does with the OEM amp?
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You can use an amp and retain the factory slider control. You can hook the sub up as you normally would from the HU, then at the sub input take the high level inputs and use a hi level to low level convertor. The low level will run to the amp, which turns it back into hi level to the sub. They are typically cheap and cheap, the sound quality suffers a little bit but on a sub you probably won't even notice.
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YellowArtero
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JUN 02, 07:18 AM
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I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result. The sound is quite good especially for the size of the sub. One thing I did do though that I think helps is to spray a heavy coat of truck bed liner on the inside and outside. It looks good and seems to give a little more mass to the enclosure and makes the sound less 'plasticy'.
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