V6 Engine Rebuild -mild performance- maniac way (Page 6/18)
m0sh_man NOV 08, 12:49 PM
You WILL have to use a neutrally balanced flexplate for a 2.8L-3.1L, only the 88 fiero v6 had this as far as fiero's go, you cant use a 4cyl flexplate on a v6 either.

you CAN use the 1988 and up cavalier, beretta, corsica, and any other 3.1L v6 flexplate, should be dirt cheap really, its a common part.

matthew
Fieromaniac NOV 09, 11:53 AM

quote
Originally posted by m0sh_man:

You WILL have to use a neutrally balanced flexplate for a 2.8L-3.1L, only the 88 fiero v6 had this as far as fiero's go, you cant use a 4cyl flexplate on a v6 either.

you CAN use the 1988 and up cavalier, beretta, corsica, and any other 3.1L v6 flexplate, should be dirt cheap really, its a common part.

matthew



nah not that common over here i guess i need to order a new plate

ok , yesterdays work :

felt the urgent need to polish something ( i think you know what i mean )

before


paintstripper


after wetsanding with 280grid

Fieromaniac NOV 09, 11:57 AM
started with the valves today

cleaned the valveguides






after some rounds





both valves of cylinder 2 done incl. finish


if the oil is still there tomorrow morning , the valves are ok
Fieromaniac NOV 10, 02:11 PM
ok checked my "Valve Test " some Minutes ago and after 1 and a half day little amount of oil reached the intake and exhaustchannels but didnt ran out of
the head.( intake was better than exhaust )

so i will give both valves some more round with the finishing creme then ill retest the Valves .
If they hold the complete amount of Oil / or Petroleum i know how to treat the other Valves ,
i mean ill get to know what "Valve-face" is needed
Fieromaniac NOV 13, 07:47 AM
got some stuff today :

perf. Valvesprings : 15$ ebay
oilpump repairkit : 16$ ebay

Winaldl cable : PFF member odgerunner thx dodgie





Fieromaniac NOV 16, 09:07 AM
oilpump overhauled







cleaned the housing and smoothed the scratches from the old gears with 1000grid wetsandpaper





pin removed that holds the spring





cleaned in gasoline bath



surface smoothed



further cleaned



new spring installed



new gears



and done




katatak NOV 16, 10:32 PM
Fieromaniac,

Great thread. I have read this entire thread 3 times since it was started. I really admire your "old school" approach to your rebuild. Years ago (like 30 plus) I needed to rebuild a straight six in an old Chevy truck. My Grandfather owned a service station for years but was retired at the time I started the rebuild. Being a teenager, I did not have the money to just pull the motor and drop it off at the machine shop. He and my Dad and I did it the "old school" way. Honed and then ball honed the cylinders, hand lapped the valves, hand polished the Rod journals with emory cloth, etc. Did all the work with the block still bolted to the trans. Installed new rod bearings, valve seals, piston rings, oil pump and seals. I drove that truck for 5 years and never had one problem with the motor - never used a drop of oil. Keep up the great work.....

Pat
Fieromaniac NOV 23, 03:24 PM
pressed the wrist pins out



all rods cleaned a lil



starting to polish the rods






timgray NOV 23, 10:43 PM
I love this thread, it shows the youngins' how we used to do an engine rebuild with little to no money. I remember doing my first engine rebuild in my dad's shed to a VW pancake 4 cyl.
Francis T NOV 24, 07:42 AM
Now I did not read the whole thing so this may be moot: I hope you tanked that block and those heads and also pulled your freez-out plugs and oil passage allens out and cleaned the oil bores. The yuk on the outside is not as big a problem as the crud build up in your water jackets/passages and oil passages etc. Replay that water pump and oil pump too while your at it, cheep and easy to do now.

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