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| V6 Engine Rebuild -mild performance- maniac way (Page 6/18) |
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m0sh_man
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NOV 08, 12:49 PM
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You WILL have to use a neutrally balanced flexplate for a 2.8L-3.1L, only the 88 fiero v6 had this as far as fiero's go, you cant use a 4cyl flexplate on a v6 either.
you CAN use the 1988 and up cavalier, beretta, corsica, and any other 3.1L v6 flexplate, should be dirt cheap really, its a common part.
matthew
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Fieromaniac
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NOV 09, 11:53 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by m0sh_man:
You WILL have to use a neutrally balanced flexplate for a 2.8L-3.1L, only the 88 fiero v6 had this as far as fiero's go, you cant use a 4cyl flexplate on a v6 either.
you CAN use the 1988 and up cavalier, beretta, corsica, and any other 3.1L v6 flexplate, should be dirt cheap really, its a common part.
matthew |
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nah not that common over here i guess i need to order a new plate
ok , yesterdays work :
felt the urgent need to polish something ( i think you know what i mean )
before

paintstripper

after wetsanding with 280grid

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Fieromaniac
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NOV 09, 11:57 AM
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started with the valves today
cleaned the valveguides



after some rounds


both valves of cylinder 2 done incl. finish

if the oil is still there tomorrow morning , the valves are ok 
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Fieromaniac
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NOV 10, 02:11 PM
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ok checked my "Valve Test " some Minutes ago and after 1 and a half day little amount of oil reached the intake and exhaustchannels but didnt ran out of the head.( intake was better than exhaust )
so i will give both valves some more round with the finishing creme then ill retest the Valves . If they hold the complete amount of Oil / or Petroleum i know how to treat the other Valves , i mean ill get to know what "Valve-face" is needed
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Fieromaniac
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NOV 13, 07:47 AM
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got some stuff today :
perf. Valvesprings : 15$ ebay oilpump repairkit : 16$ ebay
Winaldl cable : PFF member odgerunner thx dodgie


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Fieromaniac
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NOV 16, 09:07 AM
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oilpump overhauled



cleaned the housing and smoothed the scratches from the old gears with 1000grid wetsandpaper


pin removed that holds the spring


cleaned in gasoline bath

surface smoothed

further cleaned

new spring installed

new gears

and done


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katatak
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NOV 16, 10:32 PM
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Fieromaniac,
Great thread. I have read this entire thread 3 times since it was started. I really admire your "old school" approach to your rebuild. Years ago (like 30 plus) I needed to rebuild a straight six in an old Chevy truck. My Grandfather owned a service station for years but was retired at the time I started the rebuild. Being a teenager, I did not have the money to just pull the motor and drop it off at the machine shop. He and my Dad and I did it the "old school" way. Honed and then ball honed the cylinders, hand lapped the valves, hand polished the Rod journals with emory cloth, etc. Did all the work with the block still bolted to the trans. Installed new rod bearings, valve seals, piston rings, oil pump and seals. I drove that truck for 5 years and never had one problem with the motor - never used a drop of oil. Keep up the great work.....
Pat
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Fieromaniac
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NOV 23, 03:24 PM
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pressed the wrist pins out

all rods cleaned a lil

starting to polish the rods



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timgray
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NOV 23, 10:43 PM
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I love this thread, it shows the youngins' how we used to do an engine rebuild with little to no money. I remember doing my first engine rebuild in my dad's shed to a VW pancake 4 cyl.
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Francis T
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NOV 24, 07:42 AM
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Now I did not read the whole thing so this may be moot: I hope you tanked that block and those heads and also pulled your freez-out plugs and oil passage allens out and cleaned the oil bores. The yuk on the outside is not as big a problem as the crud build up in your water jackets/passages and oil passages etc. Replay that water pump and oil pump too while your at it, cheep and easy to do now. ------------------ [IMG] Trueleo.com/fiero.htm RSpiderII@aol.com
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