I thaught long and hard about the exhaust system, and list it as one of the three major arias of doing a swap. And it is most likely going to cost more than the mounts to do the swap.
BTW I love to see how diferently we do things. It shows that we are getting better and better with each engine swap that is done.

I am going to see how the exhaust system pans out before I make any changes to the front cross member. I agree it is too weak in its present form though. I think you are right about the heat. I hope to have dual exhausts with no common connections. For now the plan is to make manifolds that will be similar to the fiero's and after a 90-degree bend have a cat on each bank. The cats are 2" ID and are somewhat larger ID than the stock cross under. I do plan to go under the pan but with that section wrapped to carry the heat further rearward. The pipe under the pan will likely be a 2.5" pipe pressed into an oval shape to help it fit with enough space for the wrap. If I could I would wrap everything but the cats. I have no idea how much the stuff costs so I will have to find that out first. The exhaust tubing for the most part will all be 2" ID. For now I don't think that will be too restrictive and yet it won't be a big jump from stock either. I plan on the rear bank having the same length tubing as the front. Hopefully that will keep it reasonably balanced. It is definitely a compromise situation... There is room around the driver’s side of the trans to run a 2” pipe with some to spare. It requires more tubing to do that so it will be option number 2. Since you and Will have not mentioned anything about needing mufflers, I don’t plan on having any. Some sort of tips will be back there but I don’t know which yet. Maybe stock style to help keep the sleeper look…
(The plan is subject to change... lol)

Thanks for your ideas and input.

Maybe, maybe not. It looks like it's welded securely. What's the wall thickness of that tubing?

Don't know why you think that... the factory front bank pipe goes through there just fine, and in fact wraps up very tightly on the rear face of the block. Caddy hasn't had problems with it. Just ceramic coat and/or tack a heat shield onto your crossunder pipe and you'll be fine. I wouldn't wrap it as that adds to the size of the pipe in a very tight area. Ceramic coating does just as good a job as wrapping, but doesn't hold moisture, make a mess, etc.

------------------
Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving and American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.

thanks for your input. I think the wall thickness is .125" but I will have to check on Friday when I get back home. my concern is that the cradle may be able to twist near the front adding twisting loads to the front cradle mounts on the chassis. I don't know if that is a problem or not. It appears the cradle is built much stronger across the rear cross member which is much closer to the rear suspension. maybe that is where all the strength needs to be anyway.

Ryan,

thanks for the info. I hope to get to that point in the exhaust before Halloween... I have to make the manifolds which will be new to me. I have the flanges but still need to buy some tubing and bends. I did mount the caddy manifolds and crossunder pipe but found that I would have to get a smaller diameter inner cv joint. that and having to cut the trunk is why I decided not to commit to the stock exhaust just yet. if this homemade plan does not work then I may go back to that.