Sourmug's Decklid Vent Build ** 56K Warning!!** (Page 59/69)
Sourmug AUG 13, 11:32 PM
Hi Timo! How have you been?

I will be using the same small format sub and amp that Fierosound is using in this Thread
Here's a picture of the sub:

Additionally, I will be using the Stealth dash mounted tweeters:
Sourmug AUG 14, 12:08 AM
I have also finally started to dig into the wiring for the dash swap. This is, I must confess, my weakest technical area. But, hey, I'm in this to learn so no more procrastinating. Using the stealth wiring diagrams I have started the pin-out sheets for the various connectors. Here are some pictures of the pin-outs and their actual connector. Each connector diagram is of the back of the connector where the wire enters. I hope you can use this information but of course it's at your own risk. Your gauge pod may have different features depending the car it's out of.

First off, here's the mess I'm working on and the entertainment

The next two are out of the 3000GT '92-'96 service backup electrical manual and show the approximate locations for the D series connectors in the dash and console:



The main connectors are D-03, D-04 and D-05 for the main gauge pod and D-09 for the axillary gauges.
Here's the back of the main Pod:

D-03 goes into the lower right port, D-04 into the upper right port and D-05 into the left port.
Here's the back of the Axillary gauges:

The port on the left is for the D-09 connector.
Sourmug AUG 14, 12:12 AM
This is the D-03 connector:



The D-04 connector:
Sourmug AUG 14, 12:16 AM
The D-05 connector:



And the D-09 connector:




I have excell files for the connectors and larger .jpg's of the configuration diagrams if anyone needs them.

I'm working on compiling pin-outs for some of the other connectors and will post that info once I have it. Again, make sure you check your pin-outs if you use mine, I could be wrong.

Nolan
troyboy AUG 14, 12:27 AM
looking good! I just wish I had your patience.
Sourmug AUG 14, 12:38 AM
Thanks Troy! I wish I had it too.
Sourmug AUG 26, 01:58 PM
A bit of an update:

I have been working on the doors. First off I replaced the hinge pins and bushings:

Using the lift sure made it easy. I just removed the bolts attaching the door hinges to the car frame and disconnected the wiring. Make sure you mark the hinge locations before you pull the door off though.

This gives you plenty of room to work. I highly recommend this if you have a lift. Here's a shot of the reinstalled door/pins:

I have also replaced the door glass as mine had the usual scratches. The outer dew wipes were replaced as well. Here are the rivets that need to have their heads ground off:

As you can see, the one on the left is ready to be removed. The rivets are then driven out using a hammer and punch.

I didn't even break anything!
Here's all the hardware that comes off once the rivets are removed:

And the old glass removed:

There are a few plastic guides that have yet to come off in the picture above. These are just snapped into the holes in the window and can be gently pried off.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 08-26-2007).]

Sourmug AUG 26, 02:12 PM
Here's the new glass:

And after a trip to the tinters:

The glass is easy to reinstall. I used 1 1/4" long 1/4" bolts with lock-nuts instead of replacing the rivets. The hardware that was remove just snaps back into place, for the most part. Once the glass was in place and the bolts inserted I applies some blue locktite just to be safe and tightened the nuts onto the bolts. As I understand it you have to be careful not to over tighten the nuts. Once done the excess bolt length was trimmed off:


I have also started to install the after-market door locks. As I previously indicated, I will be using ltlfrari's write-up on his site as a guide.
Here's the actuator attached to a bracket that I fabricated:


And the assembly attached to the door:

The bolts are again 1/4" bolts 1 1/4" long. Holes were drilled so that the bracket sits just above part of the door mechanism when attached and a nut was placed between the door and the bracket as a spacer.

That's all for now, except that the E-Bay vendor who sent the wrong wheel has replaced it with the correct one

Nolan
Sourmug AUG 26, 05:53 PM
I also did some work on the cradle. The control arms, ball joints and Addco swaybar are on:

And so is the engine and tranny!!!


Richjk21 AUG 26, 06:43 PM
I have to say Nolan, I always smile when I see there is an update to your thread. Not just for your quality of work, and innovation, which I have to say are impressive, but also for the care you take in documenting everything you do. I am pretty sure I count myself among many others when I say that yours is one of the build threads I measure others against as far as quality of info goes. Any how, keep up the great work... .and the great thread.


Rich