Had the rear tires mounted on the rims. Disconnected the parking brake cables from the forward cable. I am gonna remove and replace the forward cable and the handle first up in the morning.

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Plunder from yesterdays trip to see MstangsBeware. All bolt hole threads are nice. Good shape, just faded Fiero red. Got back home last night at 8:00pm

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-23-2010).]

84-86 cars do not have the extra fuel lines that the 87-88's have because of the expansion tank. But the connector for the fuel tank harness is in this proximity.

When I got my 4.9 up in the car and had it running , I had gotten underneath the car for some reason. I saw how close the forward exhaust manifold was the the fuel lines and electrical connectors from around the center of the car to the passenger side. The factory made a heat shield for the lower parts of the car and upwards a bit on the drivers side. The metal lines that run to the expansion tank on the right side of the car are only a few inches from the exhaust manifold.


There is also one metal fuel vapor line that runs from the expansion tank to the left side of the car to the charcoal canister. This line has a rubber hose joining the two halves togeather. I was not real happy with this and thought of a way to block the heat from these lines and areas.
Along side and bent to the 'Z' shape:


What I did was take a piece of scrap metal I had cut from the trunk when I cut it out of the car. About 9" X 14" . I used a pair of vice grips to bend a lip over, then a hammer to flatten it out. I had a nice edge all the way around now. After installing the factory heat shield again I bent the fabbed piece like a 'Z'. I raised it underneath the car and marked where I wanted it to be mounted. Dropped the heat shield once more and set the new piece where I had marked. Drilled two holes.
Raised up on the firewall. I needed to locate a few extra bolts:

pretty good shot mounted up:

Painted and bent to the shape I wanted it when mounted up:

I thought about just using pop rivets, but this way I have access to the fuel tank harness connector behind it by just removing a few fasteners. This all would be super easy to do before the engine is raised up in the engine bay

I am gonna pull the factory piece back off of the car and add one more fastener above the left side mounting bolt. I'll get a shot of it after I have it all back on the car.

Bolted togeather and all painted:

mounted on the firewall:

and

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I removed the two power window switches today and took them apart for cleaning. I need to get some dielectric grease before I put them all the way back togeather.
I painted the rockers Matt black, but I don't like the way they look. I am gonna remove the rockers and add the flat black.


I had a set out of an 84 that I took apart first for experience. After cleaning the right side one I put it back in the car to test it out. My passenger side glass moves under its own power now. Super slow, but it is working.

This car has around 200K miles on it that I know about. Last mileage on carfax is 197K, the speedometer I replaced had over 300K on it. I am thinking that I need to get new morors for both doors. Even 200K is a lot of miles on the car, and trips up and down for the windows.

Just ordered two new window motors from RockAuto, $50 shipped. Dorman kits

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-26-2010).]

I removed the inner door panel to access the drivers door power window motor. After cleaning and lubing the window switches, they still move in a very slow manor. I have ordered two new power window motors from Rock Auto yesterday.

After removing the inner panned I removed the plastic that a PO had used instead of the paper barrier that is supposed to be here. I removed the small chanel piece that is bolted to the inside of the door frame. and some of the parts of the power door locks. I wasn't aware that I had power door locks until today. And they work, well sorta, as the drivers side will unlock. The right door works both lock and unlock.

After disconnecting every thing as explained in the book, I needed to raise the glass up all the way and block it in the up position. The handle of my largest Phillips screw driver inserted at the bevel of the glass:

inserted at the rear of the door:

If you have power door locks, you will need to remove the lock solenoid first as it is in the way big time. In these two spaces:
Lower hole

and upper hole.:After removing the rivets remove the motor with the scissor assembly threw this hole.

And out:


This was fun, NOT.

Got this today:

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[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-29-2010).]