Ferrari 288GTO build (Page 57/64)
dobie1 MAY 09, 10:17 PM
Yes I will post the process I’ll be using to produce the CF engine covers!

So with the help of a couple Good friends Don O. And Phil I’ve been able to cross off a bunch of things on my list to complete before the rear body is reinstalled for the last time.
Phil is a certified welder and has been reattaching the part of the trunk I had cut out previously and welding the new floor into the trunk.

This is the new floor pan cut to size


This after it was tac welded in place, then fully welded


I seam sealed all the new panels


This shows all the new panels attached including end caps for the trunk that is under the body so everything is closed in except the trunk.


I then sprayed everything with Raptor Liner inside and out giving everything a durable surface





I made up some supports that will give the hinges and body additional support



Don O. Has taken on a big task to help me, on my push to get the car on the road this summer. Widen the front suspension, not in the conventional way of adding longer control arms which
Creat their own problems. We’re cutting and adding 3” to the width. Giving me 1 1/2”s on each side. As the mod progress I’ll post some pics of the process.

One last update is I got the first piece back from the upholsterer, the dash bottom. I still have some finishing to complete but I’m very happy..



That’s all for now , thanks for stopping by.

Wayne

[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 05-10-2023).]

zkhennings MAY 10, 03:46 PM
Wow that came out great! Finally warm again!
shemdogg MAY 10, 05:45 PM
Nice work on the trunk, VEEEEEEEEEEEERRRRRYYY nice work on the dash wow that looks good. Almost there!

shem
dobie1 MAY 30, 01:05 AM
Thanks for the comments guys always appreciated!!

Lots of things happening on the car right now, in the push to get it somewhat finished and driving this summer.

I have been extremely fortunate to have two fellow car building buddies that are helping me to complete modifications that might not have been finished anytime soon….

Don O. Recently sold his beautiful replica 308 , with a bit of freed up time has offered to widen the front cross member on my car. The stock wheel width needs to be widened 2 1/4” on each side. This will bring the wheels out to the wheel lip arch.

From what I’ve seen it’s a lot of work, first thing is to build a jig, this keeps everything straight and ensures all the frame and body mounting points are correct in the modified cross member.


Then cut off the mounting brackets that will be relocation to the new mounting points in the cut cross member.



Tack weld the fill pieces in place


Everything was test fit into the car to ensure everything fit. We installed the upper and lower control arms and put the wheel on and judge for yourself!!!




Phil the other buddy of mine is adapting the 6 piston Brembo front brakes that I have onto my car.
He also didn’t like the way my back Brembo brakes were mounted and is building new adapter plates for mounting.


To say the least I’m really excited to get the front suspension and brakes completed.

And then there is the Carbon Fiber engine compartment covers. I thought for those that are interested you might like the build process I used .
Keep in mind there are other ways to build them I’ve chosen this method but you could do an infusion or vacuum bag but due to the shape and sharp edges of the metal this worked best
For me.
I started with the cardboard templates I made earlier


I took some 18ga metal and bent it to the shape of the cover, I then waxed it a couple times and then sprayed it with PVA mold release


You can use a few different types of epoxy resin , I happen to have infusion resin , first coat the metal as best you can with the resin with an even coat . Then lay your first layer of cloth down.
Take a brush and really impregnate the cloth very important as this is the finish, add your next layer and brush it with resin then the third and last layer same process.
Once done to make sur the edges didn’t lift I added some strips along the edges and lightly clamped them so they don’t lift. Let cure overnight.




The next day I popped them off the form and trimmed them down to size and shape.


This little cutoff works wonders for trimming. Make sure you’re wearing a mask carbon fiber ‘dust is very hazardous to your lungs!!!


That’s it guys thanks for stopping by
Wayne
Fie Ro MAY 30, 07:09 PM
Looking great!

A few tricks I use with carbon fiber: I first apply a few coats of resin and let it dry. Then adding the carbon fiber and resin. Less risk of pushing the cloth to far in and creating airpockets or pinholes. The thicker clear epoxy layer gives a "deeper" look to the carbon fiber but it is also easier to wetsand without fear of sanding into the carbon weave. After one layer of carbon fiber I just layup regular fiberglass cloth with a black tint added to the resin, saves a lot of carbon fiber that that I will never see. I found that a good finish (wetsanding, clearcoat and buffing) is worth it. I also found that epoxy resin is better because it doesn't shrink and warp like polyester resin.

Pinholes / airpockets you can fill with a little of the same resin and a small brush. After sanding smooth the "repair" is invisible !
dobie1 MAY 31, 09:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fie Ro:

Looking great!

A few tricks I use with carbon fiber: I first apply a few coats of resin and let it dry. Then adding the carbon fiber and resin. Less risk of pushing the cloth to far in and creating airpockets or pinholes. The thicker clear epoxy layer gives a "deeper" look to the carbon fiber but it is also easier to wetsand without fear of sanding into the carbon weave. After one layer of carbon fiber I just layup regular fiberglass cloth with a black tint added to the resin, saves a lot of carbon fiber that that I will never see. I found that a good finish (wetsanding, clearcoat and buffing) is worth it. I also found that epoxy resin is better because it doesn't shrink and warp like polyester resin.

Pinholes / airpockets you can fill with a little of the same resin and a small brush. After sanding smooth the "repair" is invisible !



Thanks a great idea!!
I’ll try that on the flat third piece still to be built. It’s great to learn other techniques!!

One question on putting the coats of resin down first , how do you do keep the resin from flowing down “sagging” my case the angles other than flat surfaces?
In this layup after I pull the part I let it cure 24 hours then give it a light sand and give it 2 more coats of resin that I sand flat and in most cases eliminates most all if any flaws.


So today after sanding it flat I cut out the areas needed for installing it in place. As I’m planning on having vents in the top to allow the engine heat to escape easily.
The blackened area on top of the yellow tape shows the areas I’ll be cutting out.

Once that’s all finished I’ll polish the piece .
Enjoy






Wayne
Trinten MAY 31, 09:49 PM
Man this thing is going to be so awesome when it's done!!

I hope to see it in person when it's finished, maybe you can bring it up to the show in Carlisle sometime!
dobie1 JUN 15, 11:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by Trinten:

Man this thing is going to be so awesome when it's done!!

I hope to see it in person when it's finished, maybe you can bring it up to the show in Carlisle sometime!



Thanks Trinten, I’m not sure if that is in the the cards but you never know!!

Things are moving along not as quickly as I’d like but progress none the less. My buddies Don and Phil have almost finished the front cross member and test fit everything and it’s now being fully welded and then go for powder coating before final installation.
Phil has made 3D printed Brembo brake adapters for the front and back calipers ,they have been tested and everything fits perfectly!!
it’s amazing what you can do with a 3D printer when you know what you’re doing.

Now Phil is going to mill the brackets out of aluminum

I also made the decision to paint the the back of the car while it is off. I needed to move the build along as I lost a bit of time.

This is painted white which is the value shade to get the proper red pop


This is after one light coat of red


This is after the 3rd coat.




I’m sure some of are wondering why part of it is covered up, this is because I had previously painter the top, after filling and a bit of bodywork where the sharks fin antenna is to be mounted before the back end is mounted permanently



After doing that I decided to paint the rest of the body.

Pulled the tape and paper off, still needs to be wet sanded before clear coating in a week or so but came out really flat , supper happy!!
being painted outside could have been a disaster




In case you’re wondering the tape still left on near the scoop inlets is to protect it for to body work once the body I’d permanently installed.

Thanks for stopping by.
Wayne

[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 06-16-2023).]

Sage JUN 17, 08:21 AM
Incredible!

Won't be long now......looking forward to the first pic of you: A. posing beside it completed and road ready....B. in the drivers seat ready to hit the road!

Phenomenal undertaking and excellent execution.

Awe inspiring.

Thanks for sharing the journey.

HAGO!
dobie1 JUL 17, 12:06 AM

quote
Originally posted by Sage:

Incredible!

Won't be long now......looking forward to the first pic of you: A. posing beside it completed and road ready....B. in the drivers seat ready to hit the road!

Phenomenal undertaking and excellent execution.

Awe inspiring.

Thanks for sharing the journey.

HAGO!



Thank you so much Sage for the kind words!!