LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 55/216)
Rickady88GT NOV 30, 12:18 AM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Been working on the AC lines...

I used a cut off wheel to remove the oem crimped hose clamps from the LS4 compressor end as well as the Fiero chassis aluminum hose ends. Then It was a matter of cutting the new A/C barrier hose to the proper length. Here are some pictures of the test fit:




While searching for the ferrules for the ends I came across several types for the OEM bead lock (the ferrule is locked between two beads on the fitting) fittings. Most of them required a larrger hole in the ferrule so you could push the ferrule past the beads and use a c-clip to retain it. I am sure those would work, but I also found some that had the larger hole offset:
http://www.mobileacproducts.com/ferrules.asp


So these just slide into place, fit in-between the beads, then when centered by the hose they are locked into place. Pretty slick setup, so that is what I am going with. You can buy the ferrules in packs of 25 for each size and they come to about $1 per ferrule. So I am buying 25 of the #8 and #10 and will likely sell the left overs in the mall.

Here is a nice how-to on using these ferrules. It covers removing the old hose and assembling the new one with these ferrules:
http://www.mobileacproducts.com/hose_repair.asp

For crimping these, I am planning to just take the assembled hose with new ferrules to NAPA and have them crimp them for me. The other option is to buy a crimping tool... but they are about $150 for the cheapest one and I don't build A/C lines very often. One of the most compact crimpers I have found is the ATCO 3300 Handi-Clamp:


You can buy the whole tool with the dies for $155 from here:
http://tswf.com/koolkarzonline/tools.cfm

Or you can buy just the 2 needed dies (#8 and #10) and use a large bench vice to compress them. The dies are only $20 each from here:
http://www.atcomail.com/forsale/3300parts.htm




I like, I need this tool for my next project

fieroguru NOV 30, 06:35 AM
Napa crimped my A/C lines with the hand tool shown above. They charged me $5 to crimp all 4 ferrules, so that wasn't bad at all.
fieroguru DEC 01, 06:14 PM
Confirmed that the A/C lines fit!

Then I cleaned up the garage in preparation of removing the engine/tranny/cradle for hopefully the last time.

I fabbed up some guides to show where the ends of the coolant tubes need to be so I can build them on the bench vs. under the car:



Then disconnected the harness and removed it from the center console.


Once the engine/tranny/cradle is on the bench again, I will start fabbing up the coolant lines.
fieroguru DEC 02, 04:49 PM
Everything is back on the bench and the crossover coolant tube is mocked up and tacked together:



It is supported on the pulley side of the engine from a bracket off the alternator. I am fabbing up the bracket on the transmission side that will come off the catch can bracket.

This is the easy side... the other one is very tight with little room...

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-02-2012).]

fieroguru DEC 03, 07:23 PM
Ordered some black pipe butt-weld elbows for the passenger side coolant tube.

The battery relocation cables came in today. 15' of both back and red in 2ga welding wire for $66 shipped.
Bloozberry DEC 05, 10:56 AM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:
Napa crimped my A/C lines with the hand tool shown above. They charged me $5 to crimp all 4 ferrules, so that wasn't bad at all.



I never even knew those ferrules were available, much less crimpable at NAPA or even at home. Learn a new thing everyday.

fieroguru DEC 05, 06:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:
I never even knew those ferrules were available, much less crimpable at NAPA or even at home. Learn a new thing everyday.



Yeah, I didn't know they were available either until a few months ago. It was a fun search once I came across them to figure out what I wanted/needed and then how to get them crimped. Once this car is running and I have more available funds, I will buy the hand crimper and add it to the collection. Napa only charged me $5 to do all 4 crimps!

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-05-2012).]

fieroguru DEC 05, 06:36 PM
I think the passenger side coolant tube is figured out.

1" Schedule 40 black pipe is the perfect size for the fiero coolant hoses, so I ordered some butt-weld 90's to start with like this:


Then I just pieced them as well as some sections of pipe together and came up with this:




Just need to weld on the mounting tab (it is just tacked in place).
fieroguru DEC 06, 06:43 PM
Battery showed up today!


Here is one of the places I am thinking about mounting it. Easily accessible but out of the way. It is a dry cell battery, so I might be able to bolt it under the sheet metal and over the fascia edge below the passenger head light:


This weekend I will throw some cables together and try to crank over the engine. With it having a gear reduction starter, I don't think spinning the engine will be any issue, but it would be nice to "know" before I bolt the battery down.
fieroguru DEC 08, 06:42 PM
Today was a productive day...

Wiring harness is now complete and loomed up!


No picture but I also built a sub harness for the wideband. It runs in its own heat shrink loom from the sensor to the console area where the controller will be mounted. It follows the engine harness path and is wire tied to it to keep it mostly hidden from view. Keeping it separate will allow me to remove it at a later date if I wish to do so.

Also did the finish welding on the coolant tube tab that came off the catch can mount. Then I painted it satin black:


Finish welded the passenger side coolant tube hard line and painted it as well:


Painted the PCV hard line:


I also started welding up the long coolant tube. That should be finished, smoothed and painted on Sunday.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-08-2012).]