CHOP TOP # 15 !!!!!!!!!! (Page 55/78)
troyboy FEB 01, 11:23 PM
madcurl FEB 01, 11:23 PM
Spot a 20: At 5" lip, I'm 1" too short, hehe.





A lot of freckin weights! Due to the Dakota Digital's air sensor.


Three of the Corvette 13" rotors are chrome domed; I hate rustic hats.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-01-2008).]

exoticse FEB 02, 01:14 AM

Totally, totally awesome !

Curly is it me or does the front tire seems kinda low, and there seems to be a lot of front wheel gap ?
madcurl FEB 02, 12:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by exoticse:

Curly is it me or does the front tire seems kinda low, and there seems to be a lot of front wheel gap ?



Yeah, I think it's a very slow leak or normal leak; however the tire was mounted last September (5-months ago). I'll take the tire/rim to a wheel shop and use their tire tub to check for leaks. I hope it's not the three peice seal leak, but rather a bead leak or valve stem.

As for the wheel gap, it's due to the tire being an 18" and not a 19" that normally run upfront; plus the fender cap isn't on and the car hasn't settled yet. I haven't driven the car since I removed the DUBs for #020. I'm thinking of getting 1" lowering springs which will be just enough clearance if I should decide to switch back.
madcurl FEB 02, 10:46 PM
Nearly straight-up corner tire lip; granted a 325/25/20 would have worked too. However, the very minor bulging over the rim lip isn't enough to prevent curb rash. The 345 measure are 13.63 or so across (bead-to-bead) and the rim lip measure is 13.5" (lip-to-lip) which leaves .13" divided by 2 = .065


[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-03-2008).]

madcurl FEB 03, 01:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by diabloscott:

You should fid a shop that will mount those tires quicker so we can hurry up and see how great they look on your car.
Scott



I talked to HRE last Wednesday about my concerns regarding the mounting of 345s using an extreme 5" outer lip. Conclusion; A special notation for rims (20x12-13") with outer extreme 5" lip or more; the two shops are now removed from the "list."

Cost involved;

1. $80 bucks that F1Motoring charged me for scratching my rims and failure in mounting the tires and 13:30 to 17:00 spent at the shop.

2. $190 buck that F1 paid for replacing the Dakota Digital tire sensors + s&h.

3. HRE cost of mounting them (they normally charge $40 bucks per tire) x tires = $80 bucks.

4. Shipping and recieving (mine were partly mounted) $50 bucks or so per tire to HRE x 2 = $100 buckeroos!

5. Shipping mounted tire/rim to customer maybe $100 bucks?


Total for HRE = $320 s&r x 4 plus mounting (guessing here).

F1 Motoring = $190 plus s&r

Curley = $30 bucks in gas, $80 bucks for failed attempt in mounting the suckers ( I know, I could have not paid), a good 8 hours or so waisted in getting the tires mounted.

Lessons learned: avoid all headaches by having The Tire Rack send the 345s directly to HRE and have HRE mount them.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-03-2008).]

GODFATHER FEB 03, 03:00 PM
Hey Curley, are you running the stock 5x100 bolt pattern? And do you have the part # on those rims?

Thanks
madcurl FEB 03, 03:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by GODFATHER:

Hey Curley, are you running the stock 5x100 bolt pattern? And do you have the part # on those rims?

Thanks



Correct. 5x100. The numbers are etched into the metel on the backside on every rim made by HRE. If you decide to buy, make sure you use specs from #011 for non-widebody Fiero. Keep in mind, #011 uses a Ryan/Held suspension (increased clearance for the fronts). As for widebody rims; #013, 015 &, 022 are all different even though all are widebodies. Each were made to the owners specifications that were based upon #020.
madcurl FEB 14, 10:47 PM
Always continue to think outside the box, always try to be different.



#015 outdated roof line and IMO ugly squared corner.


Notice the curved roof line on the Lotus Elise


Old idea found on the Redux, but in this case,I'll increase the curvuture






Sorry about camera phone pics hehe.














Coming full circle: notice the nice curved shape of the roof.



[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-17-2008).]

madcurl FEB 15, 11:43 PM
Springing a leak; the crappy nipples are not made of the same grade as regular radiator hose, therefor every year or so, I need to replace this crap with another nipple cap. However, I had enough of this crap by buying a splice kit and bypass this problem.


It's been three years and I finally got around to removing this problem. I need to do the same to #020. For the life of me, I hate Kevin's poor excuse for using this crap!


Both sides are completed.






Additional lip is now needed.


Back end up for fluids and getting out the air pockets.


Geezs, the fuel lines were giving me some issues so after the first two tries, I decide to watch the Star Wars Video and come back later. After I came back later, the N* started on the forth attempt and then I focused on the air pockets in the system. At 23:30hr I think I've gotten all of the air pockets out of the system.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-16-2008).]