LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 54/216)
fieroguru NOV 18, 06:43 PM
Didn't work much on the LS4 swap today... but I did make a new panel for the center console area and started to mount the components to it.


For mounting the TCM, I forced some vacuum lines through the mounting holes and cut them off with about 1/8" sticking through both sides. Then I could use typical fiero interior screws to bolt it down and keep it isolated. As I tightened the screw, the vacuum line mushroomed out some.
fieroguru NOV 19, 04:32 PM
The "official" GM Transmission fluid plug arrived today and guess what? It looks just like the O2 sensor plug, but in a coated steel vs. stainless steel and it doesn't have an o-ring on it either.... go figure. The stainless O2 sensor plug looks much better, so that is what I am going to use.



The other silicone reducer came in today... looks much better than the electrical tape I have been using to hold it still. Once the swap is running and tuned, I will probably switch to the card style MAF and extend the tube. That will streamline the inlet tract and allow the MAF to be hidden and one of the couplers to go away.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-19-2012).]

fieroguru NOV 25, 02:00 PM
Finally finished with the inside wiring...


Now when the engine comes out again I can finish the terminations at the last ECM plug (BLUE) and call the harness finished!!! I really hate wiring...
Trinten NOV 25, 02:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:
Now when the engine comes out again I can finish the terminations at the last ECM plug (BLUE) and call the harness finished!!! I really hate wiring...



Though you do such an meticulous job with it! Out of the handful of people that have seen pics of your past work that I've spoken too, everyone of them said that your attention to detail, especially with the wiring, is what makes it so clean and gives it a "factory" look. Thanks for the update!
KissMySSFiero NOV 26, 04:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by Trinten:


Though you do such an meticulous job with it! Out of the handful of people that have seen pics of your past work that I've spoken too, everyone of them said that your attention to detail, especially with the wiring, is what makes it so clean and gives it a "factory" look. Thanks for the update!



I would argue this. The factory tend to throw in the wiring and put an ugly plastic cover over things.

This is far better detail.

To me, things that look factory will not get noticed by most. For example, when this car is at a show, no one will know that the notch on the driver's side frame rail for the trans was moved to fit the F40.

That's just one example. I'm sure there are dozens more on this car.
fieroguru NOV 26, 06:38 PM
Thanks guys!

Ordered my Battery today.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-5575a

Since this is a non-aero notchie, I can't mount the battery under the headlight like I usually do. This swap also has me more weight conscious than normal and looking for ways to save weight vs. my old SBC/Getrag swap. So both of these items will have me experimenting with a Dyna-Batt battery. The battery has a 7 x 3 x 6.5 foot print and weights only 13.5 lbs... a 20 lb savings from a stock Fiero battery and its small size should allow it to be mounted between the spare tire tub and the radiator and not in the spare tire tub at all. This would provide access for jump starting and require just 4 mounting holes (after I fab up a bracket to hold it).

I might need to keep the blue dingy thing for my headlights because these small batteries don't last nearly as long as a stock sized battery.
Jims88 NOV 26, 09:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Thanks guys!

Ordered my Battery today.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-5575a

Since this is a non-aero notchie, I can't mount the battery under the headlight like I usually do. This swap also has me more weight conscious than normal and looking for ways to save weight vs. my old SBC/Getrag swap. So both of these items will have me experimenting with a Dyna-Batt battery. The battery has a 7 x 3 x 6.5 foot print and weights only 13.5 lbs... a 20 lb savings from a stock Fiero battery and its small size should allow it to be mounted between the spare tire tub and the radiator and not in the spare tire tub at all. This would provide access for jump starting and require just 4 mounting holes (after I fab up a bracket to hold it).

I might need to keep the blue dingy thing for my headlights because these small batteries don't last nearly as long as a stock sized battery.


Thats a cool battery. Never heard of a dry cell automotive starting battery.
I wonder if it gives off fumes when charging like lead acid?
fieroguru NOV 28, 05:38 PM
Battery relocation cables are on order.
The A/C line ferrules arrived today so I put the A/C hose together. I did have to enlarge the offset hole in the ferrules to slide them over the factory ridges, but that wasn't much work for the die grinder.




On Thursday I will run to Napa over lunch and have then crimp the ferrules for me.

This weekend I need to finish up the coolant lines for the engine.
Jims88 NOV 28, 09:40 PM
Those hoses turned out nice!

It's good to know Napa will crimp hoses.
Our local industrial supplier has a sign on the front door, "If you didn't by our hose we don't crimp ."

Are you going 134a conversion or staying with R-12?
fieroguru NOV 29, 08:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by Jims88:

Those hoses turned out nice!

It's good to know Napa will crimp hoses.
Our local industrial supplier has a sign on the front door, "If you didn't by our hose we don't crimp ."

Are you going 134a conversion or staying with R-12?



Thanks!

Our local Napa is rather large and offers more services than others I have been to. I had previously called them and they just wanted to know if I would be supplying the ferrules (which I said yes). The ones they have often needed to have the hole enlarged and it was more of a hassle than anything. The unknown at this time is how large their crimper is and will it fit around the close fitting A/C lines. If theirs doesn't fit, then I will purchase the dies for the #8 and #12 (about $20 each) and crimp them with my vice.

The car will be converted to 134a.